Day 2
Not yet fully realising what it means to travel in Alpine countries (and what it is to sleep in a sheep stack) I was woken up at 3.00am by bells of sheep literally knocking on our / theirs doors. After some ‘discussion’ we prevailed and were let to rest additional two hours before watching sunrise over Alps and hitting the road.
Early morning we climbed back to place of our return, ascended Garsellikopf (2,105m) and Kuhgrat (2,123m) where we met first hikers going in opposite direction. Proud with our achievement we exchanged pleasantries and chocolates :) Little we knew that soon ascents of 2,100m peaks would become boring and not sufficient. Old adage of ‘with food grows the appetite’ was never truer :)
Quick descent to Sucka (1,402m) completed our first Via Alpina stage. After refilling our water bottles we continued to Pfalzerhutte (2,108m) – terminus of second stage scheduled for the day. Walking through marvellous alpine valleys (not yet boring for us), close encounter with horse herd high above usual habitat and completing murderous (in that time it almost killed me) climb of last kilometre made the gulash suppe and Radler taste incredibly delicious.
In order to use up as much sunlight as possible we continued in the direction of Schesaplana hutte (end of third stage on our list). First we had to crossed Gross Furgga (2,339m) pass which made me breath like someone with heavy asthma attack (my tongue licked its way through snowfields on the northern side of the pass :) ). Afterwards long descent to Schesaplana hutte(1,908m) awaited. It should be noted that marking provided on Via Alpina website (as of 11 July 2010) is incorrect and that kilometres stated are much lower (stage is long c. 14km instead of stated 18.6km).
On this very hut we met our first country woman – girl named Gabi who was working there during vacation. Briefly discussing our experience so far and plans for next couple of days, we briefly considered climbing Schesaplana peak (2,964m). Ultimately we abandoned the idea as mountains of same height awaited further on along the road. After brief some-kind-of-bath in cold water we zipped ourselves in sleeping bags.
Vertical meters (up only):3,196m
Distance: 32.158km
VA stages: R57 (partially), R58, R59
Day 3
Here comes another warning (specifically to our fellow budget travellers) for those travelling along Via Alpina. Breakfast at mountain huts are vastly overpriced (10EUR / CHF for two slices of bread, cheese, some marmalade and pot of tea). If you can bring your own supplies, which will suit your needs better than breakfast provided. If possible ask first whether breakfast are served buffet style (if yes go for it, if not eat your own crackers), otherwise it is highly advisable to book only sleeping place.
Anyway, after my first real mountain breakfast (although warned by my brother, I ordered one and paid dearly) we set off to Carschinahutte (2,221m). Trail led through valleys where we were kept company by marmots doing their morning hygiene. Fairly flat stage and Radler at its end was followed by steep descent to St. Antonien (1,420m) (in fact only my brother went there to refill our supplies in local shop as I, traditionally wasted after sharp descent, waited 200m outside of the village) we continued further on to Gargellen (Austrian village at the end of the third stage for the day).
We arrived to Gargellen fairly late after crossing St. Antonien Joch (pass at 2,379m on Madrisa round tour which follows ridges around St. Antonien) and very happy to find out that Gargellen is fairly equipped mountain centre with plenty of accommodation offered. Even better, in a true 21st century manner, tourist can find out all information through touchscreen provided on the wall of tourist office eliminating any annoying human contact :)
We spent the night in the cheapest option offered (EUR 35 per person). First time my brother had chance to experience my uf and ach sounds (he compared my movement around the room to 70 year old pensioner) which became more familiar during following days as we kept our mad tempo.
Vertical meters (up only):3,857m
Distance: 33.500km
VA stages: R60, R61, R62
Day 4
Following day after rich buffet breakfast we once again refilled our supplies in local Spar and continued along Via Alpina through mountain passes of Austria. First we crossed Vergaldajoch (2,515m) and then Mittelbergjoch (2,415m) both high enough to include snowfields along the way. Tubinger hutte (2,191m) was quick lunch stop (from now on I switched from Radler to Spezi as a sugar/energy provider) as we aimed to catch up with our plan for Via Alpina (at that time we were back three ambitious stages).
From Tubinger hutte through Hochmaderer Joch (2,505m) we continued in the direction of Madlener Haus (end of another stage). Unfortunately weather got into our way as storms from previous days (since Day 1 c. at 7.00pm and further on, storms raged on) increased streams through-flows to impassable levels (we did our best to take our shoes off twice, third time we were not lucky enough).
Unhappy but in one piece we abandoned hiking trail circa half a kilometre in front of Madlener Haus, descended to the nearest paved road and hitchhiked our way up to Silvretta reservoir and destination for the day. This detour and delay put the pitchfork to any attempt for additional stage.
Vertical meters (up only):2,463m
Distance: 26.200km
VA stages: R63, R64
7/26/2010
7/25/2010
Alpen Alpen uber alles! (vol. 1)
Here follows account of my trip with my small brother across the Alps of Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Austria, Italy and France. Originally we planned to follow Via Alpina’s Red trail from Liechtenstein to Brig Glis (c. 45 stages and c. 630km in 17 days) but as you will see later we abandoned the original plan due to lack of time (or better lacking physical conditioning) and decision to visit Jungfrau region instead.
Besides Via Alpina we planned to visit Chamonix and Mt. Blanc region as well as several cities of Switzerland (similarly to our previous trip to Spain where we explored historic and cultural sites in August 2008) masterfully balancing nature and culture during this three weeks stint. Unfortunately due to scheduling reasons (I had to postpone my flight one week later) we had to amend this plan to each individuals need. My brother visited cities and Mt. Blanc region week prior to my arrival and I plan to visit them (in the time of writing this post) after his departure.
What follows are short summaries of daily experiences including some data (certainly not vital). Kilometres walked and vertical meters ascended are based on guide printed out of Via Alpina website (some data as pointed out later are clearly wrong and / or misleading), maps we obtained during our trip and best guess / estimate I made based on them (particularly in later stage of our trip when we abandoned Via Alpina).
Please read on!
Day 1
Day before, I landed in Zurich and transported my sorry back, with overweight backpack on top of it, to Sargans where I met my brother. Afterwards we set off to Liechtenstein, our destination for a day. Day one of the uber-trip over the Alps started with half a day sightseeing in Vaduz and Schaan (city we stayed). I managed to see Kuntsmuseum and Landes museum (only worth to visit with Liechtenstein pass you can obtain for 25 Swiss francs – hereinafter CHF). Pass included visit and tasting in Hofkelerei (Liechtenstein’s monarch’s vineyards) and me milking the employees for all available information about growing wines.
Around 1.30pm we set off on our journey to the unknown and left low lands of Rhine valley for mighty Alps, their peaks and passes. Of course, we did not even set our feet out of township of Schaan and we made our first mistake. Instead of taking public transport bus (included within pass described earlier are fares for all public buses throughout Liechtenstein) to village of Planken we walked our way up. Later we paid dearly for time lost (especially me – the unofficial office rat on our two men team). After first 1,000 vertical meters I almost died reaching Gafadurahutte (point where we were about to join Via Alpina). After resting and drinking my first Radler of the summer we started off to Drei Schwestern (2,055 meters above sea level) and other peaks lying on day’s stage.
As usual all plans ended up worthless and due to upcoming storm we turned down in the pass just after Drei Schwestern and headed do the nearest waterproof looking lodge. It turned out to be sheep station with complete group of shepherd and shepherdesses. They were so kind to let us sleep in their barn (with two other unlucky hikers). To be honest, the very first night made an all star highlights reel of this trip as probably nothing can beat dry and comfi hay mixed with old sheep poop from previous months and a wakeup call of sheep bells (more on that later)...
Vertical meters (up only): 1,596m
Distance: 8.1km
VA stages: R57 (partially)
Besides Via Alpina we planned to visit Chamonix and Mt. Blanc region as well as several cities of Switzerland (similarly to our previous trip to Spain where we explored historic and cultural sites in August 2008) masterfully balancing nature and culture during this three weeks stint. Unfortunately due to scheduling reasons (I had to postpone my flight one week later) we had to amend this plan to each individuals need. My brother visited cities and Mt. Blanc region week prior to my arrival and I plan to visit them (in the time of writing this post) after his departure.
What follows are short summaries of daily experiences including some data (certainly not vital). Kilometres walked and vertical meters ascended are based on guide printed out of Via Alpina website (some data as pointed out later are clearly wrong and / or misleading), maps we obtained during our trip and best guess / estimate I made based on them (particularly in later stage of our trip when we abandoned Via Alpina).
Please read on!
Day 1
Day before, I landed in Zurich and transported my sorry back, with overweight backpack on top of it, to Sargans where I met my brother. Afterwards we set off to Liechtenstein, our destination for a day. Day one of the uber-trip over the Alps started with half a day sightseeing in Vaduz and Schaan (city we stayed). I managed to see Kuntsmuseum and Landes museum (only worth to visit with Liechtenstein pass you can obtain for 25 Swiss francs – hereinafter CHF). Pass included visit and tasting in Hofkelerei (Liechtenstein’s monarch’s vineyards) and me milking the employees for all available information about growing wines.
Around 1.30pm we set off on our journey to the unknown and left low lands of Rhine valley for mighty Alps, their peaks and passes. Of course, we did not even set our feet out of township of Schaan and we made our first mistake. Instead of taking public transport bus (included within pass described earlier are fares for all public buses throughout Liechtenstein) to village of Planken we walked our way up. Later we paid dearly for time lost (especially me – the unofficial office rat on our two men team). After first 1,000 vertical meters I almost died reaching Gafadurahutte (point where we were about to join Via Alpina). After resting and drinking my first Radler of the summer we started off to Drei Schwestern (2,055 meters above sea level) and other peaks lying on day’s stage.
As usual all plans ended up worthless and due to upcoming storm we turned down in the pass just after Drei Schwestern and headed do the nearest waterproof looking lodge. It turned out to be sheep station with complete group of shepherd and shepherdesses. They were so kind to let us sleep in their barn (with two other unlucky hikers). To be honest, the very first night made an all star highlights reel of this trip as probably nothing can beat dry and comfi hay mixed with old sheep poop from previous months and a wakeup call of sheep bells (more on that later)...
Vertical meters (up only): 1,596m
Distance: 8.1km
VA stages: R57 (partially)
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