This article is a warning for all these who think they are used to Chinese food and do not have to take care what they put in their mouth. It should also serve as a reminder for those who do not want to lose their dignity. In China I have eaten plenty of things and although occasionally I have experienced problems with my digestion, up until this Sunday I have never serious problem. I do not consider occasional internal burns from Sichuan style food / hot pot as problem - it is all too willing testing of boundaries and limits.
On Sunday I let my guards down and enjoyed sunny afternoon wondering around city center (from West Nanjing road through Wujiang road to Huai Hai road and back to Yangpu where I live). During this time I tasted and enjoyed all kinds of meals preserving balanced mix (or at least I thought so) of western and local foods. Below you can find description and list of meals which can cause your digestive tract to go into depression and, if not bailed out in time, to eventually go bust. It is also acceptable (for those soft doves) substitute for waterboarding...
In course of four hours I have eaten in particular order following:
- Pine Apple Danish, French toast and one-bite cheese cakes. Probably Danish was little too old - everything must go! phrase is valid in China as well, although original meaning of Everything must go NOW! was probably lost in translation :)
- Snack street squids and octopuses. Octopus was little undercooked but I did not complain as the people waiting for our reliable snack stall were waiting in 40minutes queue and we had ours ready within three minutes.
- Coke. "Oh boy!" - I can hear all those who watched Youtube wizards of Coke and Mentos.
- Beijing duck with all its traditional ingredients - fat, fat and fat with little pancakes and soy sauce.
- Steamed broccoli - Shanghai style (meaning plenty of MSG - monosodium glutamate) splashed by Suntory (lemonade / Budlight like beer).
I can guarantee you that after the above mentioned combination anyone will within one hour beg you for directions to the nearest toilette. I challenge you to repeat this :) Although this is after long time first contribution to dignity discussion, believe me I did not imagine this topic.
5/11/2009
Beijing a!
The final stop before returning back to Shanghai was China's capital - Beijing. We spent there almost four days exploring temples, parks, perks and surrounding sights. Although originally we planed to stay only for three days (including visit to Great Wall) we spent additional day due to Labor day (May 1st) holiday. This bank holiday is widely celebrated by what we in Europe used to called 'migration period' or better 'migration of nations'. In China it merely means that families go for a prolonged weekend out of town to some nearby destination (National Day and Chinese New Year week long vacations have no oral equivalent). Below you can find what else did we experienced in Beijing.
I have to admit I was positively surprised by current state of affairs in Beijing. I went in expecting nothing more than grey sky, dirty streets and huge amount of cars and people. For the whole length of our stay we enjoyed exquisite weather (overlooking occasional rain-showers on one of the afternoons) which in combination with repaired and well maintained historical sights totally changed my perception. Of course, locals and those who visited Beijing prior to 2008, vehemently attribute everything positive to changes brought by Olympics. From pothole-free highways, green parks and blue sky (admittedly due to trees planted inside and outside of the city as protection from dust-storms incoming from Inner Mongolia and Russia) to non-spitting and in-line-waiting citizens, everything is due to Olympics. If that is true and Olympic games were really the main driver of improved livability of Beijing, I suggest to held Olympics every two years just to to improve cities around the world (with Chinese city hosting every third Games).
Of course, first morning after our arrival we dedicated to the visit of Mao's Mausoleum (what else?) were we joined groups of Chinese pilgrims paying tribute to something / somebody (you never known whether it is really the great helmsman or his wax figurine). Impressed and with our belly full of traditional Chinese breakfast we continued to explore beauties of Tian'an men and Forbidden city. Both sights impressive in their size are equivalent of European Louvre - jewel of the capital, huge but full of people anyway, worth every penny you pay for your ticket, and displaying the most famous and visited thing (I think I just compared Mona Lisa to Mao) :D
Next day we spent visited Badaling section of Great Wall. It is not only the most visited one (visited by the heads of states as well as peasants from rural China), but also the most preserved one. Still one hour / 70km drive by public bus (number 919 from Jishuitan metro station bus depot) it offers wonderful scenery of wall sneaking along the ridges and across valleys. Altogether you can spend up to four hours walking on the top of the repaired wall (including traffic jams of picture crazy tourists) with sharp ascends and descends. Repaired wall, being substantially wider than crumbling sections just beyond accessible area, is running near its capacity (especially on sunny days). The difference between visitors' section and the one where you are not supposed to go is so striking (twice as wide and high) that you start thinking whether in order to accommodate tourists inflow a face lift was not in fact upgrade. Although we did not enjoy coveted 1on1 moments with Great Wall, it belongs to the highlights of our journey.
After return to the city center (technically we never left city premises) we wandered between temples and snack street of Beijing. Main Confucian temple held waste collection of historical stelas which were mostly erected in commemoration of some bloody emperor's victory over domestic uprising or foreign intrusion. Remaining stelas were in fact government examination results (imagine people after thousand years reading about employment interview of some of our government officials - bleh). Tibetan temple offered us glimpse of Tibetan style Buddhism and customs. After deliciously fat certificated Beijing duck with pancakes and soy sauce (although rather expensive) we enjoyed scorpions, beetles, squids and some kind of little bird as a desert. During my stay in China I tried to explore local cuisine to the utmost corners in order to find my taste buds limit. I can happily report that I have found one. Although I can eat scorpions, squids or anything else what swims or lives in the sea, I could not force my self to swallow huge maggots of some bug or head of some bird. Luckily my brother is of harder material and he finished everything.
Last day we dedicated to visits of old and new summer palaces. To the old one we got unknowingly searching for the new one. Distance of 4km is symbolic as both palaces and gardens cannot be more different. New summer palace is magnificient with preserved buildings from 19th century (heavily repaired / rebuilt Chinese way) and at least million of tourists. Walking around city and Ming dynasty wall (what is left of it) I was happy to board the train to Shanghai as amount of people and sheer fact that 500 hundred years walls were totally demolished in 1950's in order to make room for highway, started to cloud my judgement. All in all I have to admit that Beijing is today wonderfully liveable city and I only hope that Shanghai will be changed so much by the upcoming Expo.
I have to admit I was positively surprised by current state of affairs in Beijing. I went in expecting nothing more than grey sky, dirty streets and huge amount of cars and people. For the whole length of our stay we enjoyed exquisite weather (overlooking occasional rain-showers on one of the afternoons) which in combination with repaired and well maintained historical sights totally changed my perception. Of course, locals and those who visited Beijing prior to 2008, vehemently attribute everything positive to changes brought by Olympics. From pothole-free highways, green parks and blue sky (admittedly due to trees planted inside and outside of the city as protection from dust-storms incoming from Inner Mongolia and Russia) to non-spitting and in-line-waiting citizens, everything is due to Olympics. If that is true and Olympic games were really the main driver of improved livability of Beijing, I suggest to held Olympics every two years just to to improve cities around the world (with Chinese city hosting every third Games).
Of course, first morning after our arrival we dedicated to the visit of Mao's Mausoleum (what else?) were we joined groups of Chinese pilgrims paying tribute to something / somebody (you never known whether it is really the great helmsman or his wax figurine). Impressed and with our belly full of traditional Chinese breakfast we continued to explore beauties of Tian'an men and Forbidden city. Both sights impressive in their size are equivalent of European Louvre - jewel of the capital, huge but full of people anyway, worth every penny you pay for your ticket, and displaying the most famous and visited thing (I think I just compared Mona Lisa to Mao) :D
Next day we spent visited Badaling section of Great Wall. It is not only the most visited one (visited by the heads of states as well as peasants from rural China), but also the most preserved one. Still one hour / 70km drive by public bus (number 919 from Jishuitan metro station bus depot) it offers wonderful scenery of wall sneaking along the ridges and across valleys. Altogether you can spend up to four hours walking on the top of the repaired wall (including traffic jams of picture crazy tourists) with sharp ascends and descends. Repaired wall, being substantially wider than crumbling sections just beyond accessible area, is running near its capacity (especially on sunny days). The difference between visitors' section and the one where you are not supposed to go is so striking (twice as wide and high) that you start thinking whether in order to accommodate tourists inflow a face lift was not in fact upgrade. Although we did not enjoy coveted 1on1 moments with Great Wall, it belongs to the highlights of our journey.
After return to the city center (technically we never left city premises) we wandered between temples and snack street of Beijing. Main Confucian temple held waste collection of historical stelas which were mostly erected in commemoration of some bloody emperor's victory over domestic uprising or foreign intrusion. Remaining stelas were in fact government examination results (imagine people after thousand years reading about employment interview of some of our government officials - bleh). Tibetan temple offered us glimpse of Tibetan style Buddhism and customs. After deliciously fat certificated Beijing duck with pancakes and soy sauce (although rather expensive) we enjoyed scorpions, beetles, squids and some kind of little bird as a desert. During my stay in China I tried to explore local cuisine to the utmost corners in order to find my taste buds limit. I can happily report that I have found one. Although I can eat scorpions, squids or anything else what swims or lives in the sea, I could not force my self to swallow huge maggots of some bug or head of some bird. Luckily my brother is of harder material and he finished everything.
Last day we dedicated to visits of old and new summer palaces. To the old one we got unknowingly searching for the new one. Distance of 4km is symbolic as both palaces and gardens cannot be more different. New summer palace is magnificient with preserved buildings from 19th century (heavily repaired / rebuilt Chinese way) and at least million of tourists. Walking around city and Ming dynasty wall (what is left of it) I was happy to board the train to Shanghai as amount of people and sheer fact that 500 hundred years walls were totally demolished in 1950's in order to make room for highway, started to cloud my judgement. All in all I have to admit that Beijing is today wonderfully liveable city and I only hope that Shanghai will be changed so much by the upcoming Expo.
4/28/2009
What are men compared to rocks and mountains?
During past few days we travelled around Sichuan province (Leshan, Emaishan), Shaanxi (Xian) and Shanxi provinces (Pingyao). As of today, we enjoy the square one of China - Beijing. Below you can find short summary of what we went through.
Dafo (rocks)
Leshan is famous for the biggest Budha statue in the world (71 meters carved into cliff giant). Locally known as Dafo, it is guardian of fishermen of the three rivers that merge under his feet. It was carved into the cliff by monks during seventh through tenth century (Tang dynasty). Dominant of the temple complex on the opposite river bank to the city centre, it sits comfortably on his stone chair. Tourism industry offers many option to look up to this giant protector (walking the temple trail or taking the boat trip) from strong currents. With fingernails the size of family table and ears tall as one story building, it represents pretty intimidating part of UNESCO World Heritage. City by itself is navigatable by foot with long promenade along river banks. This promenades copies preserved city walls on which locals practice their dance routines and tai-chi.
Emeishan (mountains)
From Leshan we travelled to Emei, which spreads around mount Emei. This 3,099 meters tall mountain is another gamous Budhist mountain. As such it draws plenty of pilgrims or curious visitors from all over China. It offers two main approach roads which convulge in two thirds up the mountain itself. On top sits giant sculpture of Budha touching earth on his elephant (four face one with each face facing different direction). Allegedly you require two days to climg this mountain and return to 'base camp' in Baoguo village. It is mainly due to fact to allow you to watch sunrise over surrounding hills and peaks of Emeishan range.
Unfortunately, weather necessary for the above stated avoided us and we had to settle for simple satisfaction of climbing another wonderfull mountain of China. We climbed first day to 2,540 meters where we slept in local binguan (accommodation providing facility - as it does not deserve the title 'hotel'). Second day we climbed remaining 500 meters and also descended all the way to Baoguo. Of all the mountains I have visited, this has undisputable the most beautiful scenery (particularly route through Magic Peak monastery is awesome) and most pristine nature (even water can be called crystal clear - I almost relent to the temptation to drink it - almost...). The biggest attraction and tourist draw (at least of Chinese nationality) are monkey dwelling on the mountain. After my previous experience from Gibraltar, I avoided any contact and left enough space for others interested in tounting and feeding these laze mammals.
Whole climb requires c. 15-20 hours of net climbing time with plenty of stops for rest and picture taking. We did it in 16 hours but it depends on weather conditions and physical abilities of climbers. Accommodation on the top is negotiable and you can negotiate room with heater for the price of the blankets-only monastery (30kuai). For the first time we actually enjoyed the scenery as we started the climb relatively late (two o'clock in the afternoon and 5.30am before the sunrise). Also it helps that asphalt road is built up to 2,540 meters above sea level and Chinese tourists can take this option to cheat the sweat. Although, both trails are paved with stone steps, climb is demanding both on your muscles (going up literally 10,000 stairs) and bones (knees suffer as you go down the same number of stairs).
We followed the recomendation of Lonely Planet and left our luggage (no one sane would climb the mountain with 20kg backpack in two days) in Teddy Bear Hostel which is sort of backpackers base camp. As usual with LP recommendations, it promised a lot but reality was something different. Although staff tries to answer your questions, their answers are unsatisfactory at least and grossly incorrect at most. The prices are overcharged (even for a mountain resort) - 5 kuai for shower or baggage storage if you do not use accommodation in the hostel - and information about sunrise (allegedly 6.30am - real 6.00am) and time necessary for final ascent to the top (allefedly half an hour - real at least one hour) are seriously off. Of course, considering that staff speaks English pretty well, one can oversee such annoyances.
Xi'an and Pingyao (people)
After mountain we entered civilisation - precisely ancient city of Xi'an. Although not much is left of former capital, preserved an repaired walls are beautiful sight. The same goes for Pingyao which unlike Xi'an managed to preserve also inner city center and thus you can see how Han people lived during past three centuries. Xi'an is today 13million metropolis with wide boulevards and European like feel. Pingyao is on the other hand mecca for foreigner tourists eager to discover Chinese history - at least they think so. Diversity of foreigner nationalities dangerously approached the level of Prague city center during peak season. In Xi'an we enjoyed wonderfull barbecue dinner with muslim flavor (in muslim quarter of the city) with my former Chinese laoshi (teacher). She is Xi'an local and was able to show us around a little and introduced us to wonderful inner house restaurant serving plum-jam-like juice and barbecued cow stomach.
Chinese capital deserves its independent post and thus see you next time!
Dafo (rocks)
Leshan is famous for the biggest Budha statue in the world (71 meters carved into cliff giant). Locally known as Dafo, it is guardian of fishermen of the three rivers that merge under his feet. It was carved into the cliff by monks during seventh through tenth century (Tang dynasty). Dominant of the temple complex on the opposite river bank to the city centre, it sits comfortably on his stone chair. Tourism industry offers many option to look up to this giant protector (walking the temple trail or taking the boat trip) from strong currents. With fingernails the size of family table and ears tall as one story building, it represents pretty intimidating part of UNESCO World Heritage. City by itself is navigatable by foot with long promenade along river banks. This promenades copies preserved city walls on which locals practice their dance routines and tai-chi.
Emeishan (mountains)
From Leshan we travelled to Emei, which spreads around mount Emei. This 3,099 meters tall mountain is another gamous Budhist mountain. As such it draws plenty of pilgrims or curious visitors from all over China. It offers two main approach roads which convulge in two thirds up the mountain itself. On top sits giant sculpture of Budha touching earth on his elephant (four face one with each face facing different direction). Allegedly you require two days to climg this mountain and return to 'base camp' in Baoguo village. It is mainly due to fact to allow you to watch sunrise over surrounding hills and peaks of Emeishan range.
Unfortunately, weather necessary for the above stated avoided us and we had to settle for simple satisfaction of climbing another wonderfull mountain of China. We climbed first day to 2,540 meters where we slept in local binguan (accommodation providing facility - as it does not deserve the title 'hotel'). Second day we climbed remaining 500 meters and also descended all the way to Baoguo. Of all the mountains I have visited, this has undisputable the most beautiful scenery (particularly route through Magic Peak monastery is awesome) and most pristine nature (even water can be called crystal clear - I almost relent to the temptation to drink it - almost...). The biggest attraction and tourist draw (at least of Chinese nationality) are monkey dwelling on the mountain. After my previous experience from Gibraltar, I avoided any contact and left enough space for others interested in tounting and feeding these laze mammals.
Whole climb requires c. 15-20 hours of net climbing time with plenty of stops for rest and picture taking. We did it in 16 hours but it depends on weather conditions and physical abilities of climbers. Accommodation on the top is negotiable and you can negotiate room with heater for the price of the blankets-only monastery (30kuai). For the first time we actually enjoyed the scenery as we started the climb relatively late (two o'clock in the afternoon and 5.30am before the sunrise). Also it helps that asphalt road is built up to 2,540 meters above sea level and Chinese tourists can take this option to cheat the sweat. Although, both trails are paved with stone steps, climb is demanding both on your muscles (going up literally 10,000 stairs) and bones (knees suffer as you go down the same number of stairs).
We followed the recomendation of Lonely Planet and left our luggage (no one sane would climb the mountain with 20kg backpack in two days) in Teddy Bear Hostel which is sort of backpackers base camp. As usual with LP recommendations, it promised a lot but reality was something different. Although staff tries to answer your questions, their answers are unsatisfactory at least and grossly incorrect at most. The prices are overcharged (even for a mountain resort) - 5 kuai for shower or baggage storage if you do not use accommodation in the hostel - and information about sunrise (allegedly 6.30am - real 6.00am) and time necessary for final ascent to the top (allefedly half an hour - real at least one hour) are seriously off. Of course, considering that staff speaks English pretty well, one can oversee such annoyances.
Xi'an and Pingyao (people)
After mountain we entered civilisation - precisely ancient city of Xi'an. Although not much is left of former capital, preserved an repaired walls are beautiful sight. The same goes for Pingyao which unlike Xi'an managed to preserve also inner city center and thus you can see how Han people lived during past three centuries. Xi'an is today 13million metropolis with wide boulevards and European like feel. Pingyao is on the other hand mecca for foreigner tourists eager to discover Chinese history - at least they think so. Diversity of foreigner nationalities dangerously approached the level of Prague city center during peak season. In Xi'an we enjoyed wonderfull barbecue dinner with muslim flavor (in muslim quarter of the city) with my former Chinese laoshi (teacher). She is Xi'an local and was able to show us around a little and introduced us to wonderful inner house restaurant serving plum-jam-like juice and barbecued cow stomach.
Chinese capital deserves its independent post and thus see you next time!
4/23/2009
Eat hot or die trying!
Finally I got some internet access although with three Chinese teenagers literally looking over my shoulder. Here follows my account of past couple of days (since my little brother's arrival to great neon wonder) when we ascended mountains, seen some cities, visited green lungs of China and saw great many buffalos and rice paddies.
Shanghai
The way we spent Shanghai days is described in previous post. Here, I would like to elaborate on how we spent the nights. Literally it was only one night which we spent in Yifu theater watching Chinese opera. This time it was one of the classics (meaning one of the four most famous works of Chinese literature) - Dream of the Red Chamber. As usual with opera, story was simple (guy loves girl, guy can't settle down quite yet, guy wakes up and promises eternal love, some mix up follows, some more mix up follows and tragic graduation with even more tragic finale) or at least this was what I get from watching the performance with my lame Chinese. I bet some of my Chinese friends will say completely opposite but you know - foreigners...
This opera was again Shaoxing kind of thing and thus heavily relying on sensitivity and feelings. Particularly interesting were the parts after the break when boy saw girl planting flowers and promised her eternal love (awesome - even by my brother's standards...), tragic graduation when family of the boy negotiated different bride for the boy (comical), tragic finale of dying broken hearted girl (way too long - like half an hour long dying scene!) and aftermath (traditional Chinese style standing ovation - imagine football match in Italy). Ultimately, it was very nice experience and we decided to go for a Beijing opera to spice up our travel.
Huashan
First stop of the journey of two brothers was Huashan - one of five Tao mountains - after overnight train travel. Climbing was awesome with wonderful weather, quick pace and throngs of Chinese tourist on top. Due to time restrictions of our dense travel plan, we climbed only two out of four main peaks (West and South) in order to get to Xi'an on time for another overnight train to Chongqing. On the very first stop my brother started to wake up from his dream of quite mountains and untouched nature he expected in China. Carved steps with concrete supplement where lack of stones prevented carving, were undoubtedly pretty rough awaking by itself. The sheer amount of people climbing the mountain on usual working day during early season, was entirely different category.
Mountain is possible to climb in one day with pretty fresh tempo both up and down way. No problems should be expected if you take dancing shoes as trails are renovated into safe and wide highways. You can ascent one way (from Huashan village) and descent another (to parking lot at the begining of newly built cableway) or vice versa. Those unlucky or lazy enough can take cableway up to the two thirds of the climb.
Hot pot of all hot pots
Chongqing is allegedly capital of hot pot culture and the very place where hot pot is done so spicy that no one can stand it - literally no one - not even the locals. We spent the night in Ciqikou, which is left over old village quite far from city center, with plenty of local restaurants and traditional craft stalls. City proper looks similar to Hong Kong with modern highrises and incredible amount of construction work. It looks very livable as locals are nice, very open and willing to help (e.g. even the hawking cruise sellers are nice enough to help you buy bus ticket to your desired location when you refuse his offer - another explanation is that it is somebody else doing his work...).
In Ciqikou we had traditional hot pot, wisely divided into non-spicy and spicy parts, as we were warned multiple times that we won't stand the full attack. I have to admit that bumbling bloodlooking sauce was intimidating by itself, but we had to try it. If somebody tells you that hot dishes usually burn twice (on both ends), I tell you that Chongqing hot pot burns all the way through. I personally felt exactly how it moved through my digestion track. Besides the previously mentioned, I admit that I was crying like a whimp for at least solid 45 minutes when we were eating it - eventually I got used to it but boy, those croccodille tears... AWESOME!!!
Dazu and Yibin
Instead of original Dunhuang we visited carving place (UNESCO heritage) in Dazu, Sichuan province. Although very interesting - where else can you see huge stellas and statues carved into mountain valley? - it was definitely overpriced. Even if it is UNESCO heritage site and has 30m long sculpture of Budha entering Nirvana, nobody should charge 80rmb (9 euros) for it.
After Dazu we moved into Yibin county to visit Bamboo Sea of Southern Sichuan. Unfortunately, the weather conditions prevented us from enjoying allegedly the area with the highest oxygen rate in China (although our noses were much cleaner compared to previous stops). We left today morning when waking up at five o'clock turned out to be pointless due to rain. Pretty satisfied with three hour walk during previous evening and my improved negotiation skills which faced much practice during past few days, we concluded that the colors surrounding us were same as those from Clan of Flying Daggers movie which was shot here.
I would not write about incredible Sichuan cuisine because it would be like bringing wood into forrest. You should try by yourself. Be encouraged that it is not so hot as we were told - now we are able to stand it without crying. Reaction, that we are served mild versions of local dishes by pitiful cooks is not accepted! Next legs of our journey will take us to Leshan and Emeishan. More on this later. Spice rules and Sichuan is mother of all spices!!
Shanghai
The way we spent Shanghai days is described in previous post. Here, I would like to elaborate on how we spent the nights. Literally it was only one night which we spent in Yifu theater watching Chinese opera. This time it was one of the classics (meaning one of the four most famous works of Chinese literature) - Dream of the Red Chamber. As usual with opera, story was simple (guy loves girl, guy can't settle down quite yet, guy wakes up and promises eternal love, some mix up follows, some more mix up follows and tragic graduation with even more tragic finale) or at least this was what I get from watching the performance with my lame Chinese. I bet some of my Chinese friends will say completely opposite but you know - foreigners...
This opera was again Shaoxing kind of thing and thus heavily relying on sensitivity and feelings. Particularly interesting were the parts after the break when boy saw girl planting flowers and promised her eternal love (awesome - even by my brother's standards...), tragic graduation when family of the boy negotiated different bride for the boy (comical), tragic finale of dying broken hearted girl (way too long - like half an hour long dying scene!) and aftermath (traditional Chinese style standing ovation - imagine football match in Italy). Ultimately, it was very nice experience and we decided to go for a Beijing opera to spice up our travel.
Huashan
First stop of the journey of two brothers was Huashan - one of five Tao mountains - after overnight train travel. Climbing was awesome with wonderful weather, quick pace and throngs of Chinese tourist on top. Due to time restrictions of our dense travel plan, we climbed only two out of four main peaks (West and South) in order to get to Xi'an on time for another overnight train to Chongqing. On the very first stop my brother started to wake up from his dream of quite mountains and untouched nature he expected in China. Carved steps with concrete supplement where lack of stones prevented carving, were undoubtedly pretty rough awaking by itself. The sheer amount of people climbing the mountain on usual working day during early season, was entirely different category.
Mountain is possible to climb in one day with pretty fresh tempo both up and down way. No problems should be expected if you take dancing shoes as trails are renovated into safe and wide highways. You can ascent one way (from Huashan village) and descent another (to parking lot at the begining of newly built cableway) or vice versa. Those unlucky or lazy enough can take cableway up to the two thirds of the climb.
Hot pot of all hot pots
Chongqing is allegedly capital of hot pot culture and the very place where hot pot is done so spicy that no one can stand it - literally no one - not even the locals. We spent the night in Ciqikou, which is left over old village quite far from city center, with plenty of local restaurants and traditional craft stalls. City proper looks similar to Hong Kong with modern highrises and incredible amount of construction work. It looks very livable as locals are nice, very open and willing to help (e.g. even the hawking cruise sellers are nice enough to help you buy bus ticket to your desired location when you refuse his offer - another explanation is that it is somebody else doing his work...).
In Ciqikou we had traditional hot pot, wisely divided into non-spicy and spicy parts, as we were warned multiple times that we won't stand the full attack. I have to admit that bumbling bloodlooking sauce was intimidating by itself, but we had to try it. If somebody tells you that hot dishes usually burn twice (on both ends), I tell you that Chongqing hot pot burns all the way through. I personally felt exactly how it moved through my digestion track. Besides the previously mentioned, I admit that I was crying like a whimp for at least solid 45 minutes when we were eating it - eventually I got used to it but boy, those croccodille tears... AWESOME!!!
Dazu and Yibin
Instead of original Dunhuang we visited carving place (UNESCO heritage) in Dazu, Sichuan province. Although very interesting - where else can you see huge stellas and statues carved into mountain valley? - it was definitely overpriced. Even if it is UNESCO heritage site and has 30m long sculpture of Budha entering Nirvana, nobody should charge 80rmb (9 euros) for it.
After Dazu we moved into Yibin county to visit Bamboo Sea of Southern Sichuan. Unfortunately, the weather conditions prevented us from enjoying allegedly the area with the highest oxygen rate in China (although our noses were much cleaner compared to previous stops). We left today morning when waking up at five o'clock turned out to be pointless due to rain. Pretty satisfied with three hour walk during previous evening and my improved negotiation skills which faced much practice during past few days, we concluded that the colors surrounding us were same as those from Clan of Flying Daggers movie which was shot here.
I would not write about incredible Sichuan cuisine because it would be like bringing wood into forrest. You should try by yourself. Be encouraged that it is not so hot as we were told - now we are able to stand it without crying. Reaction, that we are served mild versions of local dishes by pitiful cooks is not accepted! Next legs of our journey will take us to Leshan and Emeishan. More on this later. Spice rules and Sichuan is mother of all spices!!
4/12/2009
Point: blank
I start to like the land of the living and, even Shanghai. Since my return from the land of the dead I was able to experience various joys of life scarcely available in Shanghai. Snack shopping in Qibao, skiing at Shanghai's indoor ski 'resort' and delicacies of Sichuan provenance, together with arrival of spring (sunny days and temperatures above 10 degrees Celsius) create combination which stabilize the force and balance the dark energy of study requirements. Details are written out below.
Qibao
Traditional Chinese old town visited mainly by Chinese tourists (still relatively undiscovered by foreigners) is area where you can see try various snacks characteristic for Shanghai area - from pig nose through duck head to smoked sparrows and roasted octopuses. Besides various dumplings I have stick my nose into pork. Qibao has nice old school touch with architecture of traditional peasant houses (go for Yuyuan neighborhood for upper class architecture) and remodeled seven floor pagoda. Unfortunately, this pagoda suffered concrete remodeling of what Chinese understand under 'renovation and preservation of historical building'.
Skiing in Shanghai
Never mind that it is almost subtropical climate and it snows once in a century here. As a true modern center of China it built for itself and its citizens indoor skiing stadium. 300 meter long slope offers something what those who never seen snow, call skiing. Basically, you ski on granules size of underdeveloped peas. In combination with loose rental equipment and old school skis it lays perfect ground for skiing on your bottom (which most of Chinese skiers manage gracefully). I would suggest going for snowboarding as the equipment at least looks not so ancient...
Frogs
Unable to eat dogs and rats in Guangdong, I settled for variations of frog dishes prepared in Sichuan restaurants around our campus. Unsurprisingly, I am smitten by the food and vowed to continue in exploration of Chinese cuisine. Hopefully, I will be one day able to compare frog a'la French with frog a'la Sichuan (same as I was for the snails) :)
Yuyuan
After arrival of my brother we visited Yuyuan (Yu garden), one of the main attractions in Shanghai for tourists (all nationalities present). This magnificent garden in traditional Qing dynasty style rivals those of Suzhou (those who have not time to visit Suzhou should be ok with exploring Yuyuan). Only problem is throngs of tourists. Surrounding streets offer wonderful architecture which is full of narrow streets, bending roofs and ornamental front doors. Also, many snacks stalls offer traditional Shanghaineese specials (crabs & co. are plentiful).
Shanghai museum
Indisputably one of the best museums in China (and believe me I have visited plenty of them), offers explanation of Chinese traditional bronze, ceramics, porcelain, painting and calligraphy for those willing to absorb Chinese culture. And it is for free :)
With arrival of my brother for a China visit the travel period starts again :) Next two weeks we will be traveling in Sichuan, Shanxi, Beijing and Taishan - hopefully - and thus I will again switch this blog to travel mode. For updates please check later. ENJOY!
Qibao
Traditional Chinese old town visited mainly by Chinese tourists (still relatively undiscovered by foreigners) is area where you can see try various snacks characteristic for Shanghai area - from pig nose through duck head to smoked sparrows and roasted octopuses. Besides various dumplings I have stick my nose into pork. Qibao has nice old school touch with architecture of traditional peasant houses (go for Yuyuan neighborhood for upper class architecture) and remodeled seven floor pagoda. Unfortunately, this pagoda suffered concrete remodeling of what Chinese understand under 'renovation and preservation of historical building'.
Skiing in Shanghai
Never mind that it is almost subtropical climate and it snows once in a century here. As a true modern center of China it built for itself and its citizens indoor skiing stadium. 300 meter long slope offers something what those who never seen snow, call skiing. Basically, you ski on granules size of underdeveloped peas. In combination with loose rental equipment and old school skis it lays perfect ground for skiing on your bottom (which most of Chinese skiers manage gracefully). I would suggest going for snowboarding as the equipment at least looks not so ancient...
Frogs
Unable to eat dogs and rats in Guangdong, I settled for variations of frog dishes prepared in Sichuan restaurants around our campus. Unsurprisingly, I am smitten by the food and vowed to continue in exploration of Chinese cuisine. Hopefully, I will be one day able to compare frog a'la French with frog a'la Sichuan (same as I was for the snails) :)
Yuyuan
After arrival of my brother we visited Yuyuan (Yu garden), one of the main attractions in Shanghai for tourists (all nationalities present). This magnificent garden in traditional Qing dynasty style rivals those of Suzhou (those who have not time to visit Suzhou should be ok with exploring Yuyuan). Only problem is throngs of tourists. Surrounding streets offer wonderful architecture which is full of narrow streets, bending roofs and ornamental front doors. Also, many snacks stalls offer traditional Shanghaineese specials (crabs & co. are plentiful).
Shanghai museum
Indisputably one of the best museums in China (and believe me I have visited plenty of them), offers explanation of Chinese traditional bronze, ceramics, porcelain, painting and calligraphy for those willing to absorb Chinese culture. And it is for free :)
With arrival of my brother for a China visit the travel period starts again :) Next two weeks we will be traveling in Sichuan, Shanxi, Beijing and Taishan - hopefully - and thus I will again switch this blog to travel mode. For updates please check later. ENJOY!
3/24/2009
Back from the land of dead
My brain finally took Charon's bark over the river Styx (or Acheron - whatever you prefer) and returned from the land of dead. It took more than seven weeks from my last post and six weeks after my return from Hong Kong - last stop of my infamous journey. You can imagine how hard is to think and writing with brain missing and imagine that for someone like me - impossible... Anyway, now with all superb memories forgotten, there is no fear of suicidal depression arising and I can write about rest of my journey (although rather short just to stay safe) and time in the darkness (even shorter as I am lazy and not much happened :) ). Read on!
Kuala Lumpur
I get into Kuala Lumpur (locally known as 'KL') with one of my favorite budget airlines - Tiger Airways - for free or if you spin it other way, for airport tax fee and insurance. I admire the business model of Asian budget airlines (e.g. Air Asia and Tiger Airways) - they manage to stay in black while offering huge discounts and plenty of free seats. Their complementing schedules and flights make it very easy for travelers from around the world to explore the beauties of Southeast Asia and Oceania. What a difference compared to Central European dying breed of budgeters.
In Kuala Lumpur I spent two wonderful days wondering around city, visiting local monuments, museums, enjoying local food (viva China town!) and architecture. I had the pleasure to witness some true tropical storm with 20cm rainfall in 2 hours. Besides enjoying local hospitality, when all locals are smiling and helpful (another country which can smile) I realized that Malaysia is not at all third world country as I initially expected. The streets are clean, infrastructure working and architecture positively modern or even futuristic (especially in KL with its National Mosque, Dataran Mandaka square and Petronas Twin Towers). Maybe it has something to do with British rule (another country driving on the right side :) ). All in all, I was positively surprised by KL and country as a whole and decided to return someday to explore some historical palaces of Malacca and Georgetown.
Mt. Kinabalu
As a part of my preparation for Hong Kong marathon I decided to climb Mt. Kinabalu - one of the highest mountains in the region (although marketed as the highest, it is not true as my more affluent friend from India told me). In fact, I climbed it because during planning of my trip I felt that I would need to see some actual jungle after days spent in Singapore and KL. This trip turned out to be another highlight and belongs to the hall of fame moments of my travel. Not only I met THE people (Sydney/Thailand couple I shared ride from airport to Kinabalu park and awesome threesome of Queensland), but also we together climbed 4,000 vertical meters in two days (and returned to zero). For the first time in my life I saw people capable of smiling and laughing constantly. Awesome threesome inflicted and literally forced their sunshine nature on everybody they met - not only other tourists but also on porters and staff at the resort, park rangers, taxi drivers, anything and everything that moved - they even attracted bevy of squirrels on each stop up to the mountain. I am eternally thankful for opportunity to climb up with them and stare in mute astonishment - hats off mates and thank you! :)
Climb was by itself magnificent and although not particularly demanding (no need of technical climbing as path was clearly marked, it required normal fitness from the climbers), by keeping 'near running' tempo we burned some calories. Due to cloudy weather our waking-up time of 2.30am was completely useless. Also, most of us did not bear well the 25 degrees centigrade drop in temperature (compared to sea level), it was pretty much freezing at 5 o'clock in the morning at the top of Mt. Kinabalu :) On our way back to warmth of Laban Rata huts we were rewarded with spectacular views of Borneo mountains (again pictures are coming sometimes soon). After some feeble attempt to threaten the current Mt. Kinabalu Climbaton record books (really a feeble attempt) I managed to get back to civilization, and more importantly, airport at Kota Kinabalu (or 'KK' for locals) on time for my return flight to KL.
Hong Kong Half-Marathon
After another pleasant day in KL I flew to Hong Kong in order to participate in the local half-marathon. This might sound pretty strange but main it is true - only reason for my second stay in HK was half-marathon. Although, I have to admit that I love this city and I have enjoyed walking its street very much. Half-marathon path was unlike the one in Shanghai, uneven with several ascents and subsequent descents. With start at Kowloon we run on the highway and under the sea to finish among the skyscrapers of Hong Kong island. Sunny weather and architectural beauty of the financial heart of Asia combined for breathtaking atmosphere. Of course, I needed that breath to finish within some decent time limit which I did not. My official time of 1:41:45 was five minutes better than in Shanghai but still worse than my brothers and 1:45 minutes above the time limit I eventually want to achieve. Better luck next time I hope :)
Six weeks in the land of dead
With Hong Kong-Shanghai express I was able to get back on Monday and indulged in sorrow of my memories of what I saw and experienced while traveling. Besides that, I...
...wrote an incredibly crappy paper but still passed the class. As of today, I am carefully considering whether I should share it with the readers of this blog in new section listing all the bollocks I have wrote, or I should save the world from it and leave it peacefully go on (as a responsible citizen I always consider pebble in the water theory).
...tried to summarize my life on four PowerPoint slides but the only one who got it, and get kick out of it was my little brother. I guess this by itself summarizes my life perfectly :)
...didn't do any sports as it is too cold to run and I am too lazy, I guess, to play badminton in training suit and undergarments.
...got seriously ticked off and little sick by swings in Shanghai weather. 4 days almost summer like sunshine and plus 23 degrees and then within one day drop of 10 degrees centigrade with strong northern winds does not do it for me.
...got two new jeans at tailor market for ten euro each (cut to the liking of Levi's 501 model :) ) and could have get better price but was too lazy to bargain more.
...started to sort pictures I made during my trips since I came to China - still c. 2,500 to go. Some of them I will post on here (see Photo section).
...kept myself somehow busy (I think so) although I can't remember what exactly I did.
...finally promised myself to start solving the global problems and not selfishly write about my travel experience which, I selfishly admit, is pretty painful thing as those memories are so great (especially in cloudy cold Shanghai :) ). And there go my last readers... :D
Kuala Lumpur
I get into Kuala Lumpur (locally known as 'KL') with one of my favorite budget airlines - Tiger Airways - for free or if you spin it other way, for airport tax fee and insurance. I admire the business model of Asian budget airlines (e.g. Air Asia and Tiger Airways) - they manage to stay in black while offering huge discounts and plenty of free seats. Their complementing schedules and flights make it very easy for travelers from around the world to explore the beauties of Southeast Asia and Oceania. What a difference compared to Central European dying breed of budgeters.
In Kuala Lumpur I spent two wonderful days wondering around city, visiting local monuments, museums, enjoying local food (viva China town!) and architecture. I had the pleasure to witness some true tropical storm with 20cm rainfall in 2 hours. Besides enjoying local hospitality, when all locals are smiling and helpful (another country which can smile) I realized that Malaysia is not at all third world country as I initially expected. The streets are clean, infrastructure working and architecture positively modern or even futuristic (especially in KL with its National Mosque, Dataran Mandaka square and Petronas Twin Towers). Maybe it has something to do with British rule (another country driving on the right side :) ). All in all, I was positively surprised by KL and country as a whole and decided to return someday to explore some historical palaces of Malacca and Georgetown.
Mt. Kinabalu
As a part of my preparation for Hong Kong marathon I decided to climb Mt. Kinabalu - one of the highest mountains in the region (although marketed as the highest, it is not true as my more affluent friend from India told me). In fact, I climbed it because during planning of my trip I felt that I would need to see some actual jungle after days spent in Singapore and KL. This trip turned out to be another highlight and belongs to the hall of fame moments of my travel. Not only I met THE people (Sydney/Thailand couple I shared ride from airport to Kinabalu park and awesome threesome of Queensland), but also we together climbed 4,000 vertical meters in two days (and returned to zero). For the first time in my life I saw people capable of smiling and laughing constantly. Awesome threesome inflicted and literally forced their sunshine nature on everybody they met - not only other tourists but also on porters and staff at the resort, park rangers, taxi drivers, anything and everything that moved - they even attracted bevy of squirrels on each stop up to the mountain. I am eternally thankful for opportunity to climb up with them and stare in mute astonishment - hats off mates and thank you! :)
Climb was by itself magnificent and although not particularly demanding (no need of technical climbing as path was clearly marked, it required normal fitness from the climbers), by keeping 'near running' tempo we burned some calories. Due to cloudy weather our waking-up time of 2.30am was completely useless. Also, most of us did not bear well the 25 degrees centigrade drop in temperature (compared to sea level), it was pretty much freezing at 5 o'clock in the morning at the top of Mt. Kinabalu :) On our way back to warmth of Laban Rata huts we were rewarded with spectacular views of Borneo mountains (again pictures are coming sometimes soon). After some feeble attempt to threaten the current Mt. Kinabalu Climbaton record books (really a feeble attempt) I managed to get back to civilization, and more importantly, airport at Kota Kinabalu (or 'KK' for locals) on time for my return flight to KL.
Hong Kong Half-Marathon
After another pleasant day in KL I flew to Hong Kong in order to participate in the local half-marathon. This might sound pretty strange but main it is true - only reason for my second stay in HK was half-marathon. Although, I have to admit that I love this city and I have enjoyed walking its street very much. Half-marathon path was unlike the one in Shanghai, uneven with several ascents and subsequent descents. With start at Kowloon we run on the highway and under the sea to finish among the skyscrapers of Hong Kong island. Sunny weather and architectural beauty of the financial heart of Asia combined for breathtaking atmosphere. Of course, I needed that breath to finish within some decent time limit which I did not. My official time of 1:41:45 was five minutes better than in Shanghai but still worse than my brothers and 1:45 minutes above the time limit I eventually want to achieve. Better luck next time I hope :)
Six weeks in the land of dead
With Hong Kong-Shanghai express I was able to get back on Monday and indulged in sorrow of my memories of what I saw and experienced while traveling. Besides that, I...
...wrote an incredibly crappy paper but still passed the class. As of today, I am carefully considering whether I should share it with the readers of this blog in new section listing all the bollocks I have wrote, or I should save the world from it and leave it peacefully go on (as a responsible citizen I always consider pebble in the water theory).
...tried to summarize my life on four PowerPoint slides but the only one who got it, and get kick out of it was my little brother. I guess this by itself summarizes my life perfectly :)
...didn't do any sports as it is too cold to run and I am too lazy, I guess, to play badminton in training suit and undergarments.
...got seriously ticked off and little sick by swings in Shanghai weather. 4 days almost summer like sunshine and plus 23 degrees and then within one day drop of 10 degrees centigrade with strong northern winds does not do it for me.
...got two new jeans at tailor market for ten euro each (cut to the liking of Levi's 501 model :) ) and could have get better price but was too lazy to bargain more.
...started to sort pictures I made during my trips since I came to China - still c. 2,500 to go. Some of them I will post on here (see Photo section).
...kept myself somehow busy (I think so) although I can't remember what exactly I did.
...finally promised myself to start solving the global problems and not selfishly write about my travel experience which, I selfishly admit, is pretty painful thing as those memories are so great (especially in cloudy cold Shanghai :) ). And there go my last readers... :D
2/01/2009
Close encounters (by the breasts of Chinese girl)
Using immortal words of the best Czech sports commentator, I introduce you to what I have been through in past couple of days traveling around kiwiland, land of Oz and Singapore. What follows is description of noteable facts I have written down since my last post. In this column expression used in the title would be examined from all possible angles - consider yourself warned. Read on.
Naturally disastrous
As New Zealand is located exactly on a meeting point of two tectonic plates (Australian and Pacific) it is predisposed to volcanic activity, earthquakes and similar. As such it is relatively young and still developing landmass which explains unique fauna and flora (partially :) ) - more likely it is unique due to a fact that New Zealand is so remote and out of reach (Land of Oz is the closest thing and it is still solid three hours flight away). The phrase in the subtitle was used in one of many exhibitions in Te Papa museum which is highly interactive museum (as most of the museums I have visited during past three years - including Sydney and Singapore) showing and explaining New Zealand and life on it.
Positively surreal
My two days in Sydney were definitely something. I was able to; swim in Tasman sea (incredibly cold compared to New Zealand waters) on Bondi beach where I realised that sometime in the future I will have to switch to contact lenses if I want to learn to surf, also I met (or rather crashed his tour) governor of Hunan province on the tour of New South Wales parliament mere one month after I visited Hunan. Positively surreal is also the niceness and openness of Aussies who are able and willing to talk to you on the street while waiting for a green light (and they call everyone darling down under :) ) and who thank busdriver when getting off the bus. What other word than surreal would adequately describe the fact that there is 30 pianos placed all over Sydney for people to play (and they actually do) - occassion is Sydney festival - and city council and parks maintenance asks you to walk on grass in their parks and hug trees (literally)? Bottom line is that both Sydney and Perth are magnificiently liveble cities. Even more surreal was realisation that during my stay at Sydney Marketa Irglova and Glen Hansard would be performing at Sydney Opera. Unfortunately this was another of my close encounters as both concerts were sold out (I did not visit the Opera for any other performance as I did not possess proper attire and would seriously harm my food budget :) ). Last but not least almost incredible happened and in Perth I almost visited one-day test match between Australia and South Africa at famous WACA oval (it was close but as the event was sold out I was relegated to watching kangaroo in nearby natural reserve - in the middle of the freaking city!!!). All the sold out events bring me to conclussion that Aussies are crazy about culture - what a surprise if you consider that de facto they are just bunch of convicts :) (joke!! :) ) - even during Friday when they are supposed to work and not watch cricket!
Brothers of Southern hemisphere
Australia (Oz) and New Zealand (Kiwiland) are somethin like Czech Republic and Slovakia of the down under. Both countries are close with very similar nations speaking some sort of similar language which they understand perfectly (it is some different kind of English which is surprisingly hard to understand when spoken in full throttle - e.g. they pronounce "pegs" as "pigs" etc.). Further more they compete between each other in anything and both thing of themselves as the better one (independently I was told by both Aussies and Kiwis that their nation and country is better and that the other one has "only sheeps and honey and nothing else" - which basically is true about both of them - this coming from Slovak whose country does not have even that :) ). In sports their competition can be also likened to Czech Republic and Slovakia substituting football and hockey with rugby and cricket (although it is more balanced competition, even though Black caps are laughing stock of international cricket just like Slovakia is laughing stock of world football). From the girls point of view the rivalry is also in favor of bigger brother - Oz is like rainforrest compared to Sahara of Kiwiland (this finding was acknowledged by my Kiwi friend but still I appologize for bluntness :) ).
Gradual therapy
Singapore is something in between Asia (namely China) and Oz and Kiwiland. It is hands down beautiful city with plenty of historical buildings and very modern skyscrapers. It has unique feel of melting pot of various cultures and religions. If I said about any city that people there leave next to each other regardless of their beliefs, Singapore thrashes it by landslide. Althoug it is little over-religious with church, temple of mosque on every corner (although different freom Maccau which is I would say over-catholic) there are no conflicts - everything is even written in "stone" (rather paper I would say). On the other hand it is little bit more polluted (I can feel it in my lungs after weeks spend in NZ) and dirty as each community keeps itself separated from the others and their influence. Unlike in Hong Kong where British way of life was prevalent and impossed more or less on all newcomers, in Singapore Indians (generally all who came from India even though there are many nationalities there e.g. Sikhs etc.), Chinese and Malay people positioned themselfes in certain neighbourhoods which prevail until today (it makes it interesting from touristic point of view). What I want to say is that there are certain customs which are same as in Mainland China such as; spitting on the street (although it was bus driver of Chinese group), honking (less than Shanghai though), hawking (although Indian stall owners are nowhere near the level of their Shanghai counterparts and might be even considered polite - they approach you with greeting and shake of hand instead of grabing you and pushing or fighting over you) etc. Also you can see some strictly-Chinese-way-of-thinking facts from the past. For example there is a street in city center where in the past were located "dead houses" where sick and old went to die, because to die at someone house might bring bad luck to the house - awesome (similarly to Aussie legislation regarding Abo's as animals who should be protected from overhunting, this houses were aborted and prohibited in 1960's - probably hippies have something to do with all this happiness and humanity around :) ). Anyway to sumarise, I have in fact started my gradual adaptation therapy to what awaits me in one week - return to Shanghai (further stage is Malaysia) :)
Other
Other remarks include; Air New Zealand became my favourite flag carrier with best service and most comfortable planes (it beats SAS due to younger stewardess), my realization that if I would want to know Australia I would need at least four weeks to explore it and still by far it might be not enough. In Singapore I stay at Sentosa island which is something like gigantic Disneyland - Asian style - with plenty of attractions for incoming tourists. Although twice as expensive as dorms on the main island it is needed relaxation break after two nights spending on travel and transfer (from Sydney to Perth and then to Singapore). At least I have an opportunity for morning swim in Indian ocean, morning run to prepare myself for Hong Kong and most importantly to drink evening cocktail in Bikini bar (actual name of the local beach bar) watching *INSERT WHATEVER YOU WANT (OPTIONS: a-sunset, b-bikini clad waitresses, c-fellow customers in beach wear)*.
Next stop is Kuala Lumpur and Kina Balu where I will transfer my sorry bottom in next two days. Next post will be probably from Hong Kong - maybe :) Enjoy!
PS: Of course I went for the oBvious answer - it is easier if you imagine that shortly I will return to the country where D-cups have the same meaning as Dinosaurs - extinct :)
Naturally disastrous
As New Zealand is located exactly on a meeting point of two tectonic plates (Australian and Pacific) it is predisposed to volcanic activity, earthquakes and similar. As such it is relatively young and still developing landmass which explains unique fauna and flora (partially :) ) - more likely it is unique due to a fact that New Zealand is so remote and out of reach (Land of Oz is the closest thing and it is still solid three hours flight away). The phrase in the subtitle was used in one of many exhibitions in Te Papa museum which is highly interactive museum (as most of the museums I have visited during past three years - including Sydney and Singapore) showing and explaining New Zealand and life on it.
Positively surreal
My two days in Sydney were definitely something. I was able to; swim in Tasman sea (incredibly cold compared to New Zealand waters) on Bondi beach where I realised that sometime in the future I will have to switch to contact lenses if I want to learn to surf, also I met (or rather crashed his tour) governor of Hunan province on the tour of New South Wales parliament mere one month after I visited Hunan. Positively surreal is also the niceness and openness of Aussies who are able and willing to talk to you on the street while waiting for a green light (and they call everyone darling down under :) ) and who thank busdriver when getting off the bus. What other word than surreal would adequately describe the fact that there is 30 pianos placed all over Sydney for people to play (and they actually do) - occassion is Sydney festival - and city council and parks maintenance asks you to walk on grass in their parks and hug trees (literally)? Bottom line is that both Sydney and Perth are magnificiently liveble cities. Even more surreal was realisation that during my stay at Sydney Marketa Irglova and Glen Hansard would be performing at Sydney Opera. Unfortunately this was another of my close encounters as both concerts were sold out (I did not visit the Opera for any other performance as I did not possess proper attire and would seriously harm my food budget :) ). Last but not least almost incredible happened and in Perth I almost visited one-day test match between Australia and South Africa at famous WACA oval (it was close but as the event was sold out I was relegated to watching kangaroo in nearby natural reserve - in the middle of the freaking city!!!). All the sold out events bring me to conclussion that Aussies are crazy about culture - what a surprise if you consider that de facto they are just bunch of convicts :) (joke!! :) ) - even during Friday when they are supposed to work and not watch cricket!
Brothers of Southern hemisphere
Australia (Oz) and New Zealand (Kiwiland) are somethin like Czech Republic and Slovakia of the down under. Both countries are close with very similar nations speaking some sort of similar language which they understand perfectly (it is some different kind of English which is surprisingly hard to understand when spoken in full throttle - e.g. they pronounce "pegs" as "pigs" etc.). Further more they compete between each other in anything and both thing of themselves as the better one (independently I was told by both Aussies and Kiwis that their nation and country is better and that the other one has "only sheeps and honey and nothing else" - which basically is true about both of them - this coming from Slovak whose country does not have even that :) ). In sports their competition can be also likened to Czech Republic and Slovakia substituting football and hockey with rugby and cricket (although it is more balanced competition, even though Black caps are laughing stock of international cricket just like Slovakia is laughing stock of world football). From the girls point of view the rivalry is also in favor of bigger brother - Oz is like rainforrest compared to Sahara of Kiwiland (this finding was acknowledged by my Kiwi friend but still I appologize for bluntness :) ).
Gradual therapy
Singapore is something in between Asia (namely China) and Oz and Kiwiland. It is hands down beautiful city with plenty of historical buildings and very modern skyscrapers. It has unique feel of melting pot of various cultures and religions. If I said about any city that people there leave next to each other regardless of their beliefs, Singapore thrashes it by landslide. Althoug it is little over-religious with church, temple of mosque on every corner (although different freom Maccau which is I would say over-catholic) there are no conflicts - everything is even written in "stone" (rather paper I would say). On the other hand it is little bit more polluted (I can feel it in my lungs after weeks spend in NZ) and dirty as each community keeps itself separated from the others and their influence. Unlike in Hong Kong where British way of life was prevalent and impossed more or less on all newcomers, in Singapore Indians (generally all who came from India even though there are many nationalities there e.g. Sikhs etc.), Chinese and Malay people positioned themselfes in certain neighbourhoods which prevail until today (it makes it interesting from touristic point of view). What I want to say is that there are certain customs which are same as in Mainland China such as; spitting on the street (although it was bus driver of Chinese group), honking (less than Shanghai though), hawking (although Indian stall owners are nowhere near the level of their Shanghai counterparts and might be even considered polite - they approach you with greeting and shake of hand instead of grabing you and pushing or fighting over you) etc. Also you can see some strictly-Chinese-way-of-thinking facts from the past. For example there is a street in city center where in the past were located "dead houses" where sick and old went to die, because to die at someone house might bring bad luck to the house - awesome (similarly to Aussie legislation regarding Abo's as animals who should be protected from overhunting, this houses were aborted and prohibited in 1960's - probably hippies have something to do with all this happiness and humanity around :) ). Anyway to sumarise, I have in fact started my gradual adaptation therapy to what awaits me in one week - return to Shanghai (further stage is Malaysia) :)
Other
Other remarks include; Air New Zealand became my favourite flag carrier with best service and most comfortable planes (it beats SAS due to younger stewardess), my realization that if I would want to know Australia I would need at least four weeks to explore it and still by far it might be not enough. In Singapore I stay at Sentosa island which is something like gigantic Disneyland - Asian style - with plenty of attractions for incoming tourists. Although twice as expensive as dorms on the main island it is needed relaxation break after two nights spending on travel and transfer (from Sydney to Perth and then to Singapore). At least I have an opportunity for morning swim in Indian ocean, morning run to prepare myself for Hong Kong and most importantly to drink evening cocktail in Bikini bar (actual name of the local beach bar) watching *INSERT WHATEVER YOU WANT (OPTIONS: a-sunset, b-bikini clad waitresses, c-fellow customers in beach wear)*.
Next stop is Kuala Lumpur and Kina Balu where I will transfer my sorry bottom in next two days. Next post will be probably from Hong Kong - maybe :) Enjoy!
PS: Of course I went for the oBvious answer - it is easier if you imagine that shortly I will return to the country where D-cups have the same meaning as Dinosaurs - extinct :)
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