In order to start new year in proper manner me, my brother and my two high school friends decided to go skiing. As I am pretty sure most of you are not interested in description of what I did on 1.1.2010, I guess you can take this as a recipe for cheap skiing.
We decided to go to the Slovakia's highest mountains - Tatras. There we planned to ski on one of the longest (if not the longest) ski slopes in my home country at Strbske Pleso resort. Of course, there are many other options to ski in Slovakia but me and my brother had very good experience from past and my friends were glad to tag along. Furthermore, in combination with special promotion with Slovakrail (personal rail transport provider in Slovakia) it was by far the cheapest option to ski on New Years Day.
In price of EUR 27 you purchase return ticket from any railway station in Slovakia, return ticket for Tatras' electric tram servicing cities in Tatras region, one day skipass (separate EUR 5 deposit is paid for skipass), 20% discount on rental of skiing gear in local rental shop and a tea at ski hut on top of the ski slopes (those less experienced can receive 10% discount on ski school). Similar promotions are available for various ski resorts across Slovakia (different conditions apply) and can be found on Slovakrail website.
Main idea was to go skiing on "day after" immediately upon opening of chairlifts when everybody will sleep off long celebrations (it also means that our celebrations were of very limited nature :) ) and we would enjoy empty slopes. Our predictions came through (at least for first two hours) and we enjoyed high quality skiing and incredible weather - perfect inversion. The best feeling is when you ski above clouds - little more worisome is feeling you have when skiing into that cloudy milk...
Anyway after good five hours of skiing we jumped on train and returned home tired like dogs (who wouldn't be after spending these hours cutting curves with knees bent). Wonderfully eventful day provided us with much needed activity after days of abundance and price made it even more awesome. One day ski pass outside of this promotion costs EUR 26.5 during high season and EUR 22 since Jan 4, 2010 till early March (outside of season one day skipass costs EUR 16). Hope at least somebody will find inspiration in this (at least Czech ski resorts and railways operators :)
1/02/2010
12/31/2009
HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
I wish all of you HAPPY NEW YEAR 2010! ENJOY and celebrate like no other! Travel and explore like never before! And always remember - WORK HARD BUT PARTY HARDER :)
Happy and lucky 2010!
Happy and lucky 2010!
11/06/2009
Empire strikes back!
Although back in my old routine (i.e. work work work) I feel need to share with you my joy that the balance in force was restored and the universe returned back to order. In a galaxy of stars on sports' sky there is no brighter star then New York Yankees!
As even the brighter ones (double pun intended - wonder who would understand it actually) of you have probably noticed Yankees became World Champions for the 27th time after winning sixth game of their 40th World Series.
By beating Philadelphia Phillies in six games they ended nine year drought since their last championship in 2000. The four "fathers" from the previous dynasty (Derek Jeter, Andy Pettitte, Mariano Rivera and Jorge Posada) - a.k.a. The Core - surrounded by highly (Alex Rodriguez, C.C. Sabathia) and not so highly (just about anyone else) paid ballplayers did not hesitate to wrap up World Series at home and confirm Yankees' position as the winning-est team in baseball.
Only minor kink on this beautiful day is awareness of the fact that on our way to the 27th pennant we were not able to trash the Red Sox. Let us enjoy tomorrow's parade through Canyon of Heroes and soak in glare of glory :) Let's go Yankees!
May the force be with you!
As even the brighter ones (double pun intended - wonder who would understand it actually) of you have probably noticed Yankees became World Champions for the 27th time after winning sixth game of their 40th World Series.
By beating Philadelphia Phillies in six games they ended nine year drought since their last championship in 2000. The four "fathers" from the previous dynasty (Derek Jeter, Andy Pettitte, Mariano Rivera and Jorge Posada) - a.k.a. The Core - surrounded by highly (Alex Rodriguez, C.C. Sabathia) and not so highly (just about anyone else) paid ballplayers did not hesitate to wrap up World Series at home and confirm Yankees' position as the winning-est team in baseball.
Only minor kink on this beautiful day is awareness of the fact that on our way to the 27th pennant we were not able to trash the Red Sox. Let us enjoy tomorrow's parade through Canyon of Heroes and soak in glare of glory :) Let's go Yankees!
May the force be with you!
10/11/2009
Running wild!
Eight months after my last big run in Honk Kong I still stick to my plan of two half-marathons per year. During first Sunday of October I decided to run half-marathon as a part of Kosice Peace Marathon meeting (Kosice Peace Marathon is the oldest marathon on an old continent and one of the oldest in the world). I am very happy to report that I was successful and able to finish it. Of course, one have to point out that my time was the worst so far (1:54:44 - official) but considering the volume of training I did I am fully satisfied. Due to ongoing teeth problems I was not able to train and altogether run for 12km prior to the event. My finish was very much product of my will and overall atmosphere (easily the best I have experienced during half-marathons) then my physical ability. To redeem myself I already plan my next 'move' which will be announced later :)
8/27/2009
So Long, and Thanks for All the Fish!
This is actually my last post from Middle Kingdom (for now) and as such it will be very brief. Main reason for that is to avoid any pathetic crap people usually write when departing place they lived for some time. Crap will follow in September when I will sort out my thoughts and write things I did not manage yet.
It was fun! I'd gladly come back. And really, thanks for all the fish :D :P :)
Adijo!
It was fun! I'd gladly come back. And really, thanks for all the fish :D :P :)
Adijo!
8/26/2009
Into the unknown
As this is probably the last meaningful post from the Chinese soil, it is only the most appropriate to write about the most memorable trip I took in China. I don't dare to say that this was the best but it ranks high up there. On other trips I have seen more things and I have more time to soak up the atmosphere but three days in Sanqingshan (SQS) offered condensed experience and everything you can wish for for a trip in mountains. I promise that this time it will be much shorter than those novels no one wants to read I have offered previously.
We decided to explore SQS - an UNESCO listed mountain in Jiangxi province. As not mentioned (yet) in Lonely Planet, we can consider ourselves lucky as we were positively one of the first westerners to visit this national park. Of course, Chinese tours make their presence felt even here. SQS is located c. six to seven hours by train (normal speed train) but can be approached by D-train within four hours limit. We took a D-train to Quzhou in Zhenjiang province where we transferred for a bus to northern gate of the SQS National Park. Thanks to the courtesy of our bus driver, we were dropped by other bus at the original bus driver family house, where we found roof for the night. What we saved on accommodation (70 RMB / 7 EUR for two people) we overpaid on food. Although we were offered the option of a chicken to be killed just for us, we preferred veggie and fish dinner at our hotel :)
Getting up at 5.30am and on trail at 6.30am was first achievement of the day. We continued to climb through wonderful subtropical forest for good three hours. Towards the end I discovered my second (this time unrepairable) mistake. Battery in my camera was not charged. Unlike pictures from Chengdu which I completely restored upon my return to Shanghai, this time no such luck was at hand. I left my recharger at home as just before we left I checked and found battery fully charged. Probably it has something to do with incredible humidity in the area but by the time we reached our first crossing, battery was absolutely empty. Therefore there will be no pictures from the most beautiful national park I have seen in China so far.
Anyway, after three hour steep ascent from Northern gate we reached the first crossing where we took direct way to Sanqing temple. Entrance to the park is paid on top of long long flight of steps so basically you are happy to do anything they ask you (80 RMB / 8 EUR for student after 50% discount - not only one of the most beautiful but also the most expensive mountain in China). There we explored beauty of place (another short loop with beautiful views of surrounding mountains and temple area is available) and paid our homage to Taoist gods (at least one of us). After short meal (be warned that SQS is considerably expensive mountain compared to others in China - 30 RMB / 3 EUR for roasted rice and this was the cheapest dish) we continued along the Sunshine coast - a plank road on Northeastern cliff of the mountain. We took the first chance to ditch this way as this was our relax route for next day and climbed the highest peak in the area - Yujing shan (1,817 meters). All the way we enjoyed incredible views of pine forests, huge rocks and granite boulders and many many dragonflies :) On top we made quick acquittance with whole Japanese family or tour and left for some more adventure.
On our way down we took temporarily or permanently closed road which continued in our preferred direction. The road was closed probably because of the rockslide which destroyed only a hut on trail but otherwise it was perfectly safe way (although much steeper then our ascent trail). We reached West coast sea road (plank road rimming Southwestern cliff of SQS) and continued through other peaks and gates (understand - tiny cracks in between huge walls of rocks) towards fascinating shapes and compositions of boulders in eastern part of the park. There we saw boa towering over the pines, statue of goddess with head gently inclined and many others. Best thing came shortly before final descent to our targeted hotel. On a plateau around Yutian scenery spot we saw our first Buddha light - the very famous and in China very revered natural phenomenon when rainbow shapes up in the perfect circle. It looks awesome especially if you position you head in the middle :) We were left speechless for good twenty minutes and acted like little giddy children who got some super cool new toy (of course I complained constantly about my camera because chance to see Buddha's light is extremely rare). Afterward we descended to our hotel, had a quick dinner and tired went to bed - after 13 hours of constant hiking and c. 1,700 vertical meters we were pretty much spent for the day. Accommodation on the mountain is frankly of very poor quality and certainly extremely overpriced. From our inquiries we settled for the cheapest option of 260 RMB (26 EUR) for two person accommodation in dirty, full of bugs and humid room. Unfortunately our hotel (the one called 'hotel' also on map of the area - others are called villas) was the best on the mountain - at least from outside look.
Next day we woke up at 4.00am and run our tired legs towards Yutian plateau to see the sunrise. We enjoyed whole experience uninterrupted by anyone else as most of the Chinese tourists came towards the end of the whole show. Colors and sky with sparse clouds were fantastic (easily the best sunrise of all my attempts around China - with majority being bust). Cherry on top was visit of uncle eagle on our way back. He flew towards our bright colored jackets to check upon those rude intruders within 10 meters and sailed away to hunt for some breakfast. Still giddy but feeling already tired from extremities of yesterday we filled our stomachs as well and continued our journey around West coast and Sunshine coast plank roads to complete our exploration of SQS. If previous day and morning were almost tourist free, then rest of the day was from classic Chinese tourist book - people everywhere. After seeing monkey king with his treasure we decided to run for our lives and peace of our souls and finished the loop as early as possible. Totally exhausted we jumped on cable car and descended to Southern gate of National Park (my co-traveler almost killed herself from exhaustion as she was so excited to finish the trip that she literally flew down last 20 steps bruising any part of her body possible - except for head).
Upon descent we took local bus (two hour bumpy bus ride for 15 RMB / 1.5 EUR) to Yushan and after big dinner with famous chicken being cooked finally we jumped on sleeper train to Shanghai. SQS is magnificent mountain with extremely green pine forests in higher and subtropical jungle in lower elevation. Granite boulders and rocks make you wonder 'what are men compared to rocks and mountains' in line with heroes of that Austen girl. Anyway, although beautiful in nature it is already being kissed by Chinese tourism authority and build up in and around SQS National Park is in full throttle. On the other hand, it might improve competition and quality of accommodation on mountain since currently it is abysmal. My personal disagreement is with Jiangxi cuisine as I find other Chinese cuisines better and more nutritious. Be alert that this is still undiscovered corner of China for Western traveler as no Lonely Planet guide described it and therefore everything is in Chinese standards :)
We decided to explore SQS - an UNESCO listed mountain in Jiangxi province. As not mentioned (yet) in Lonely Planet, we can consider ourselves lucky as we were positively one of the first westerners to visit this national park. Of course, Chinese tours make their presence felt even here. SQS is located c. six to seven hours by train (normal speed train) but can be approached by D-train within four hours limit. We took a D-train to Quzhou in Zhenjiang province where we transferred for a bus to northern gate of the SQS National Park. Thanks to the courtesy of our bus driver, we were dropped by other bus at the original bus driver family house, where we found roof for the night. What we saved on accommodation (70 RMB / 7 EUR for two people) we overpaid on food. Although we were offered the option of a chicken to be killed just for us, we preferred veggie and fish dinner at our hotel :)
Getting up at 5.30am and on trail at 6.30am was first achievement of the day. We continued to climb through wonderful subtropical forest for good three hours. Towards the end I discovered my second (this time unrepairable) mistake. Battery in my camera was not charged. Unlike pictures from Chengdu which I completely restored upon my return to Shanghai, this time no such luck was at hand. I left my recharger at home as just before we left I checked and found battery fully charged. Probably it has something to do with incredible humidity in the area but by the time we reached our first crossing, battery was absolutely empty. Therefore there will be no pictures from the most beautiful national park I have seen in China so far.
Anyway, after three hour steep ascent from Northern gate we reached the first crossing where we took direct way to Sanqing temple. Entrance to the park is paid on top of long long flight of steps so basically you are happy to do anything they ask you (80 RMB / 8 EUR for student after 50% discount - not only one of the most beautiful but also the most expensive mountain in China). There we explored beauty of place (another short loop with beautiful views of surrounding mountains and temple area is available) and paid our homage to Taoist gods (at least one of us). After short meal (be warned that SQS is considerably expensive mountain compared to others in China - 30 RMB / 3 EUR for roasted rice and this was the cheapest dish) we continued along the Sunshine coast - a plank road on Northeastern cliff of the mountain. We took the first chance to ditch this way as this was our relax route for next day and climbed the highest peak in the area - Yujing shan (1,817 meters). All the way we enjoyed incredible views of pine forests, huge rocks and granite boulders and many many dragonflies :) On top we made quick acquittance with whole Japanese family or tour and left for some more adventure.
On our way down we took temporarily or permanently closed road which continued in our preferred direction. The road was closed probably because of the rockslide which destroyed only a hut on trail but otherwise it was perfectly safe way (although much steeper then our ascent trail). We reached West coast sea road (plank road rimming Southwestern cliff of SQS) and continued through other peaks and gates (understand - tiny cracks in between huge walls of rocks) towards fascinating shapes and compositions of boulders in eastern part of the park. There we saw boa towering over the pines, statue of goddess with head gently inclined and many others. Best thing came shortly before final descent to our targeted hotel. On a plateau around Yutian scenery spot we saw our first Buddha light - the very famous and in China very revered natural phenomenon when rainbow shapes up in the perfect circle. It looks awesome especially if you position you head in the middle :) We were left speechless for good twenty minutes and acted like little giddy children who got some super cool new toy (of course I complained constantly about my camera because chance to see Buddha's light is extremely rare). Afterward we descended to our hotel, had a quick dinner and tired went to bed - after 13 hours of constant hiking and c. 1,700 vertical meters we were pretty much spent for the day. Accommodation on the mountain is frankly of very poor quality and certainly extremely overpriced. From our inquiries we settled for the cheapest option of 260 RMB (26 EUR) for two person accommodation in dirty, full of bugs and humid room. Unfortunately our hotel (the one called 'hotel' also on map of the area - others are called villas) was the best on the mountain - at least from outside look.
Next day we woke up at 4.00am and run our tired legs towards Yutian plateau to see the sunrise. We enjoyed whole experience uninterrupted by anyone else as most of the Chinese tourists came towards the end of the whole show. Colors and sky with sparse clouds were fantastic (easily the best sunrise of all my attempts around China - with majority being bust). Cherry on top was visit of uncle eagle on our way back. He flew towards our bright colored jackets to check upon those rude intruders within 10 meters and sailed away to hunt for some breakfast. Still giddy but feeling already tired from extremities of yesterday we filled our stomachs as well and continued our journey around West coast and Sunshine coast plank roads to complete our exploration of SQS. If previous day and morning were almost tourist free, then rest of the day was from classic Chinese tourist book - people everywhere. After seeing monkey king with his treasure we decided to run for our lives and peace of our souls and finished the loop as early as possible. Totally exhausted we jumped on cable car and descended to Southern gate of National Park (my co-traveler almost killed herself from exhaustion as she was so excited to finish the trip that she literally flew down last 20 steps bruising any part of her body possible - except for head).
Upon descent we took local bus (two hour bumpy bus ride for 15 RMB / 1.5 EUR) to Yushan and after big dinner with famous chicken being cooked finally we jumped on sleeper train to Shanghai. SQS is magnificent mountain with extremely green pine forests in higher and subtropical jungle in lower elevation. Granite boulders and rocks make you wonder 'what are men compared to rocks and mountains' in line with heroes of that Austen girl. Anyway, although beautiful in nature it is already being kissed by Chinese tourism authority and build up in and around SQS National Park is in full throttle. On the other hand, it might improve competition and quality of accommodation on mountain since currently it is abysmal. My personal disagreement is with Jiangxi cuisine as I find other Chinese cuisines better and more nutritious. Be alert that this is still undiscovered corner of China for Western traveler as no Lonely Planet guide described it and therefore everything is in Chinese standards :)
8/21/2009
Mad dash to the sea (and beyond)
As mentioned in the previous post, we travelled from Wudang shan to Luoyang (one transfer in Xiangfan needed) which was the first city of our 8 cities 2 showers 8 days 'are-you-on-crazy?' tour concluding our three-weeks-long trip. In these eight days we visited all imperial capitals, birthplace of Confucius, swam in the sea, the best part of Great wall, climbed yet another Taoist mountain and indulge in tea culture and tea plantations of Hangzhou. The sleep was scarce and time for shower virtually non-existent. Some days we could not stand ourselves, such was the effect of 35 degree weather and constant movement from one historical sight to the other. On the other hand, we covered crazy amount of kilometers and anything worth of visiting in the below described cities (only exception is Beijing). Looking back, I would do it all over again, anytime :)
Luoyang
Capital of 13 dynasties (several dynasties had more than one capital city - e.g. Tang) was center of Chinese empire up until 10th century and the decline of Tang. Importance of Luoyang in the history of China magnifies number of temples in the city proper including Bai Ma Si (White horse temple) - the first Buddhist temple in China (built in 68 AD). We arrived late in the evening and happily accepted train station hotel offered by station staff (its all connected as usual - uniformed men and women instead of taking care of trains offer accommodation to anyone getting off the train). Heavy bargaining and two near walk-outs ended in 70 RMB (7 EUR) De-luxe bedroom. My guess is that this was lower price than Chinese people, who got to the hotel first, paid (talk about bargain power :).
We dedicated the first day to visits of temples and important sights such as Longmen caves. Longmen caves are member of the famous triumvirate of Buddhist grottoes (with Magao and Dazu carvings) dating back as early as 5th century. There are another Buddhist caves around Datong, which are even older then Longmen caves, but as I have not seen them I would not dare to comment. Grottoes here were created over two centuries following relocation of capital from Datong in 494 AD. Size-wise, the caves are the biggest one from the above mentioned triumvirate with over 100,000 statues stretching along banks of Yi He (Yi river). Beauty-wise, Longmen caves are the most beautiful and the most tourist-friendly of the three, offering best value for money as well. Dazu is too small compared to these caves and Magao is by far the unfriendliest one as you can visit only pre-selected caves your tour guide will take you in. In Longmen, you can enjoy walking from cave to cave and only thing you have to worry about is the amount of Chinese tourist groups. Although no statue is as big as 50 meters high Magao Buddhas, some of the caves offer wonderful 20 meters high statues and carvings. Work done by chisels is precise and detailed, representing top of grotto art in China. Unfortunately Longmen caves were the closest and the most convenient for Red guards to visit. During their reign of cultural (or rather uncultural) terror great amount of statues was damaged and beheaded (talk about saving art and history for the future generations). Although heavily damaged, undisputed beauty of Three Binyang Caves, Ten Thousand Buddha cave and Lotus Flower cave are preserved (more detailed description can be found on the web so I will not bother you here). Opposite bank of the river offers some more grottoes, freshly renovated temple where you can still enjoy fresh paint aftertaste and tomb of one of the most revered Chinese poets (don't ask for his name).
After some hopeless search for forgotten / stolen camera of my friend we used public transport to get to the Guanlin temple. All major destinations in Luoyang are served by public transport; Longmen and Guanlin temple by line 81 starting at the train station and Bai Ma Si and the old town by lines 56 (starting at the train station) and 58 (from Guanlin temple). Guanlin temple is dedicated to general Guan Yu of Shu kingdom (my beloved Three kingdoms period), whose head was allegedly buried here. His bravery and fearlessness brought him posthumous title of the Lord of War (something like 1,000 years later). His fame was spread mostly after his life when he became revered by people and both Buddhism and Taoism embraced him in their pantheon. You can recognize him in most of the temples you visit as red faced, mostly angry looking statue with long thin mustache. Temple is rather big complex of buildings and halls with simple round tomb at the end.
From Guanlin we moved towards Bai Ma Si to see some real stuff. Name of the temple comes from legend of how Buddhism came to China. Legend has it that two Indian monks brought first Buddhist sutras on two white horses. They stayed in this temple built for them and translated scriptures into Chinese. Since then temple housed the most important and oldest relics and became center of Chinese branch of Buddhism. If Guanlin is big, Bai Ma Si is huge. Besides main halls on the south-north axis complex includes living quarters and special buildings to host sutras and scriptures. Most buildings are dating back to Qing and Ming dynasties but new worshiping halls are introduced. The motives are mostly Indian (I guess legacy of monks lives on) with some of shrines being built and financed from India (as a proof of friendship).
After Bai Ma Si we had left some time and energy for exploration of night market and choosing of restaurant for our highly deserved dinner. Ah, those restaurants of Luoyang! The quality and price of food is one of the best in China and I would rate it as the best food on our trip. To discover and explore just get off at Bei Da Jie and walk along Zhongzhou Dong Lu. You can either follow Lonely Planets recommendations (night market looks awesome but recommended restaurants look pricey and half empty) or do as we did - follow the locals and walk into the fullest one. First day we enjoyed Beijing duck for quarter of the price in Beijing (normally just half but that day was some special festival) with free beer and other three dishes altogether for 86 RMB (less than 9 EUR). Unfortunately this was the first time when we left something behind and did not destroy the food within seconds. It was just too much for us. Next day we visited neighbor restaurant and again were overwhelmed by how cheap and huge are the dishes. Both restaurants can be found on Zhongzhou Dong Lu - left side if you walk eastwards - and are easily recognizable by huge crowd inside. The best thing is that kids (you cannot call them otherwise) working in these restaurants are so nice and excited that some foreigners walk in that they will make the dinner all worth it (and you will be attraction for rest of hosts).
Xian
We get off at Xian after overnight train from Luoyang and after dropping our bags at train station immediately went to visit Terracotta army, Big goose pagoda, Bell and Drum towers and concluded our day at Big Mosque and by dinning at Muslim quarter night market. Besides extensive walking through old and new town (outside and inside city walls) I have seen all sights (see previous posts) and thus we can move on.
Kaifeng
After yet another overnight train ride we spent pleasant day in Kaifeng exploring this Song dynasty capital. Considerably smaller than Xian and Luoyang, all major sights are within walking distance from train station. In one day we visited Iron pagoda (the oldest glazed pagoda in China), Old Guanyin temple (currently under full renovation), Sacred Heart of Jesus Church (my first church in six months or so), Dongda Mosque (old mosque open for all visitors in the middle of Muslim quarter), Longting Park (site of former imperial palace hidden today under two enormous lakes and pavilions), Shaanshangan Guild Hall (old guild house built by wealthy merchants in good old imperial times), Temple of Chief Minister (pleasant oasis in the middle of old town housing four-faced four-thousand eyed arms Guanyin statue and other notable Buddhist treasures) and Yanqing temple (small and not-much-to-see Taoist temple).
We dined in the western style restaurant and reached all tourist attractions either by foot (Kaifeng is conveniently small town) or public transport (lines run between main tourist attractions). Old town around Muslim and Jewish quarter offers particularly pleasant walks in between stalls of peddlers and family run restaurants. Also worth paying the visit is exhibit in Guild Hall where you can compare models of old and new Kaifeng. Somehow we both ended up siding with old one as the more beautiful. While admiring old buildings we felt sadness about newly built theme and entertainment parks luring Chinese tourists. After spending day in Kaifeng we hoped on another night train to Qingdao, so called Chinese Switzerland and coastal town promising some true beach culture (a'la China).
Qingdao
Coastal city in Shandong province was under German concession for all 16 years from 1898. Still German influence on city architecture, spirit and people is palpable. Besides architecture which very much resembles Europe (German part of it) as both old and new building blend together unlike nowhere else in China, it offers beaches, parks and most of all brewery (the most famous and the biggest in China). Basically in day spent here we managed to see everything worthwhile except for that brewery. We explored streets (almost as hilly as those in Zizkov in Prague), churches (small and simply but still very much admired by gasping Chinese), parks (nice and very nicely located on hills of the city, offering good views of harbor and coastline) and beaches (crowded). Basically, besides churches and former German governor villa where Mao once spent his vacation and discussed plans for China's future, we just wondered freely from street to street in general beach direction. The best advice is to obtain some general simple map of Qingdao and walk around - all interesting (unless you enjoy business districts) is located within walking distance on peninsula on which Qingdao is spread.
We realized we are not in ordinary Chinese city immediately when we got off our train as train station is situated in historical building right in the heart of town. What a difference to enormous glass / steel / concrete behemoths of other places we visited (with only exception of Dunhuang with its classy modern train station blending traditional characteristics with modern materials and needs). After walking around city we parked ourselves at beach no. 1 for a quick swim in the sea and shower afterward (what a relief!). Getting our hands dirty munching on crab meat we realized it is time to run for a train or we would miss our trip to Tai shan. Of course, last minute arrival was at hand once again. Qingdao meant also end of our dash to eastern seashore as from now on we turned back to accomplish one last magnificent loop back to Shanghai.
Tai shan
We arrived to Tai shan around 10.30pm in accordance with our plan to climb this holly mountain of Taoism (the most visited one) in one long overnight hike in time for sunrise. We started our climb after refilling our supplies at c. 11.30pm by long walk across town. Although originally we were afraid whether there are any such fools like us to attempt the climb at night (Lonely Planet only briefly mentions that some of the Chinese do it) we learned very soon that our idea is not so original. Further up the mountain it looked sometimes like on Tian'an men square in the middle of day. Traffic jams ensued as apparently half of Shandong decided to climb Tai shan that night.
80 RMB (8 EUR) ticket gives you opportunity for four hours climb up the mountain and some shivering at the top. Surprisingly early morning was cold even though mountain itself has only 1,545 meters. Probably our totally sweated through T-shirts did not help as well. The climb is strenuously long and after first six kilometers of relatively modestly steep hike you start some serious step hoping. Steps seem to be never ending (similar to crowds) and when you think you reach the top you realize you have somewhere else to go. On your way you pass obligatory three gates to heaven (First, Middle and South Gate to heaven), extending hand greeting pine (as usual on all mountains in China) and other notable hills, sights and temples. Nature is rich in pine forests (but nowhere near the beauty of Sanqingshan - see next post) and temples which are mostly located on top.
Upon climbing to the top we decided to borrow (5 RMB / 0.5 EUR) army looking coat which must have remembered the Long march. After one hour of shivering and waiting for sunrise we ended up totally empty handed as with first rays of sunshine huge mist sprang along the cliffs and covered any view possible. We healed our hurt souls by visit to Dai Miao - temple where emperors started their climb up. Unlucky and still unsatisfied we returned down and hoped on the first train to Qufu.
Qufu
Qufu is an old small town and the birthplace of Confucius. Yet another quasi-historic town which got lucky as one of his former citizen and dissatisfied bureaucrat started what is today one of the three most important philosophies in China. Although he lived his life in poverty wandering from place to place around several provinces, his family - Kong - became over generations that followed one of the richest people in China, rivaling the court. Kong mansion and temple are both huge complexes located next to each other. Temple offers one-sided history of sage's life casting extremely positive light on his achievements. The philosophy suited (and still suits) perfectly those on top as it emphasizes hierarchical structure of society as wife respects husband, son respects father and commoners respect officials (pyramid goes on). The popularity of Confucianism shows perfectly that history in China is written not by the winners but by bureaucrats. Thus Qin emperor and the first one who united the whole China was viewed as malice and Confucius is revered. Although his philosophy is embraced even today, commercialization, capitalism, and individualism win the hearts of young generations (especially apparent in the cities).
Both temple and Kong family house offer nice view of Chinese traditional architecture with several halls impressively decorated and marvelous carvings on pillars of at least two major halls rivaling those at Forbidden city. After visiting both (ticket for about 150 kuai / 15 EUR) we transferred ourselves to his tomb. More like a family cemetery, it is where all members of Kong family are buried. It appears that this tradition will be broken as the eldest male heir of 78th generation escaped to Taiwan... Tombs show progression of ornaments and burial customs over the years and dynasties. Confucius tomb is simple small hill with single stone tablet marking it.
Beijing
From small, walled town Qufu we went to Beijing to see some wall. Basically we had one day in Beijing to spent as we were forced to return to Shanghai on fourth or third and we were planning to see Hangzhou on our way as well. As I have already seen Badaling part we decided to try Jinshanling. It is one of the longest parts available for hiking and connects directly to Simatai part. Taking bus 980 will bring you to Miyun. Of course local clique worked here as well and we were dropped in the middle of nowhere at bus station turned minibus station of some taxi drivers. We bargained hardly for rental of a car and we got best price of 25 per person (one way) to Jinshanling. Together with two Spanish girls we met in the bus from Beijing we set off.
Road to our destination should have give us warning of what to expect later but we happily ignored minor congestion and progressed to the main gate. Paying tickets (80 RMB / 8 EUR - no student discount available) opened wall of opportunity for us. We spent something like four hours hiking along the most beautiful part of Great Wall I had seen yet. Unlike Badaling it is not so renovated (only towards the end, near Simatai) and by far less populated. Ever present hawkers, if you push hard, offer decent discounts for drinks (just double the price in your local Walmart) and shirts (you can get one for 15-20 kuai (1.5-2 EUR). I would not even start with views and pictures I have taken - just wait till I upload something. Jinshanling part of the Great Wall spreads along horizon wherever you look. Sharp ascents and breathtaking descents are good for hikers. Don't worry about 'proper' equipment as it is possible to walk this part of the Wall with only sandals on. Upon paying another 40 RMB (4 RMB) at Simatai part of the Wall and another 5 RMB (0.5 EUR) for crossing rope bridge over river (no other option - we checked) we finished our journey by taking local bus (2 kuai / 0.2 EUR) to Miyun. This bus goes allegedly once a day at 2.30pm and is unknown to any foreigner (we are still grateful to local hostel stuff). Unfortunately, perfectly planned journey which should have enabled us to visit both Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven turned into five hour nightmare where we were really scarred to make it on time for our train again (we managed to squeeze some picture time at Tian'an men square).
Hangzhou
Night train (first class after three days without no shower) took us directly to Hangzhou where we managed to walk around Xi Hu (West lake), Lingyin temple (local super temple which turned into touristic gold mine as coach after coach after coach full of Chinese tourists turn at its gate) and Longjing village. This village is epicenter of the best green tea in China (Longjing - Dragon well). Plantations are all around hills south of Xi Hu and public transport buses run there. Anybody visiting Hangzhou should pay it a visit as calm environment is in as big as possible contrast to overcrowded shores of Xi Hu. Of course, that was a time to run again to the train station to catch our last one train to Shanghai (close but we did it).
Finally, last post about my crazy trip all over the middle China. Although, incredibly exhausting it was all worth it :) Next will follow the post about Sanqingshan - probably the most beautiful trip since I am in China. Stay tuned :)
Luoyang
Capital of 13 dynasties (several dynasties had more than one capital city - e.g. Tang) was center of Chinese empire up until 10th century and the decline of Tang. Importance of Luoyang in the history of China magnifies number of temples in the city proper including Bai Ma Si (White horse temple) - the first Buddhist temple in China (built in 68 AD). We arrived late in the evening and happily accepted train station hotel offered by station staff (its all connected as usual - uniformed men and women instead of taking care of trains offer accommodation to anyone getting off the train). Heavy bargaining and two near walk-outs ended in 70 RMB (7 EUR) De-luxe bedroom. My guess is that this was lower price than Chinese people, who got to the hotel first, paid (talk about bargain power :).
We dedicated the first day to visits of temples and important sights such as Longmen caves. Longmen caves are member of the famous triumvirate of Buddhist grottoes (with Magao and Dazu carvings) dating back as early as 5th century. There are another Buddhist caves around Datong, which are even older then Longmen caves, but as I have not seen them I would not dare to comment. Grottoes here were created over two centuries following relocation of capital from Datong in 494 AD. Size-wise, the caves are the biggest one from the above mentioned triumvirate with over 100,000 statues stretching along banks of Yi He (Yi river). Beauty-wise, Longmen caves are the most beautiful and the most tourist-friendly of the three, offering best value for money as well. Dazu is too small compared to these caves and Magao is by far the unfriendliest one as you can visit only pre-selected caves your tour guide will take you in. In Longmen, you can enjoy walking from cave to cave and only thing you have to worry about is the amount of Chinese tourist groups. Although no statue is as big as 50 meters high Magao Buddhas, some of the caves offer wonderful 20 meters high statues and carvings. Work done by chisels is precise and detailed, representing top of grotto art in China. Unfortunately Longmen caves were the closest and the most convenient for Red guards to visit. During their reign of cultural (or rather uncultural) terror great amount of statues was damaged and beheaded (talk about saving art and history for the future generations). Although heavily damaged, undisputed beauty of Three Binyang Caves, Ten Thousand Buddha cave and Lotus Flower cave are preserved (more detailed description can be found on the web so I will not bother you here). Opposite bank of the river offers some more grottoes, freshly renovated temple where you can still enjoy fresh paint aftertaste and tomb of one of the most revered Chinese poets (don't ask for his name).
After some hopeless search for forgotten / stolen camera of my friend we used public transport to get to the Guanlin temple. All major destinations in Luoyang are served by public transport; Longmen and Guanlin temple by line 81 starting at the train station and Bai Ma Si and the old town by lines 56 (starting at the train station) and 58 (from Guanlin temple). Guanlin temple is dedicated to general Guan Yu of Shu kingdom (my beloved Three kingdoms period), whose head was allegedly buried here. His bravery and fearlessness brought him posthumous title of the Lord of War (something like 1,000 years later). His fame was spread mostly after his life when he became revered by people and both Buddhism and Taoism embraced him in their pantheon. You can recognize him in most of the temples you visit as red faced, mostly angry looking statue with long thin mustache. Temple is rather big complex of buildings and halls with simple round tomb at the end.
From Guanlin we moved towards Bai Ma Si to see some real stuff. Name of the temple comes from legend of how Buddhism came to China. Legend has it that two Indian monks brought first Buddhist sutras on two white horses. They stayed in this temple built for them and translated scriptures into Chinese. Since then temple housed the most important and oldest relics and became center of Chinese branch of Buddhism. If Guanlin is big, Bai Ma Si is huge. Besides main halls on the south-north axis complex includes living quarters and special buildings to host sutras and scriptures. Most buildings are dating back to Qing and Ming dynasties but new worshiping halls are introduced. The motives are mostly Indian (I guess legacy of monks lives on) with some of shrines being built and financed from India (as a proof of friendship).
After Bai Ma Si we had left some time and energy for exploration of night market and choosing of restaurant for our highly deserved dinner. Ah, those restaurants of Luoyang! The quality and price of food is one of the best in China and I would rate it as the best food on our trip. To discover and explore just get off at Bei Da Jie and walk along Zhongzhou Dong Lu. You can either follow Lonely Planets recommendations (night market looks awesome but recommended restaurants look pricey and half empty) or do as we did - follow the locals and walk into the fullest one. First day we enjoyed Beijing duck for quarter of the price in Beijing (normally just half but that day was some special festival) with free beer and other three dishes altogether for 86 RMB (less than 9 EUR). Unfortunately this was the first time when we left something behind and did not destroy the food within seconds. It was just too much for us. Next day we visited neighbor restaurant and again were overwhelmed by how cheap and huge are the dishes. Both restaurants can be found on Zhongzhou Dong Lu - left side if you walk eastwards - and are easily recognizable by huge crowd inside. The best thing is that kids (you cannot call them otherwise) working in these restaurants are so nice and excited that some foreigners walk in that they will make the dinner all worth it (and you will be attraction for rest of hosts).
Xian
We get off at Xian after overnight train from Luoyang and after dropping our bags at train station immediately went to visit Terracotta army, Big goose pagoda, Bell and Drum towers and concluded our day at Big Mosque and by dinning at Muslim quarter night market. Besides extensive walking through old and new town (outside and inside city walls) I have seen all sights (see previous posts) and thus we can move on.
Kaifeng
After yet another overnight train ride we spent pleasant day in Kaifeng exploring this Song dynasty capital. Considerably smaller than Xian and Luoyang, all major sights are within walking distance from train station. In one day we visited Iron pagoda (the oldest glazed pagoda in China), Old Guanyin temple (currently under full renovation), Sacred Heart of Jesus Church (my first church in six months or so), Dongda Mosque (old mosque open for all visitors in the middle of Muslim quarter), Longting Park (site of former imperial palace hidden today under two enormous lakes and pavilions), Shaanshangan Guild Hall (old guild house built by wealthy merchants in good old imperial times), Temple of Chief Minister (pleasant oasis in the middle of old town housing four-faced four-thousand eyed arms Guanyin statue and other notable Buddhist treasures) and Yanqing temple (small and not-much-to-see Taoist temple).
We dined in the western style restaurant and reached all tourist attractions either by foot (Kaifeng is conveniently small town) or public transport (lines run between main tourist attractions). Old town around Muslim and Jewish quarter offers particularly pleasant walks in between stalls of peddlers and family run restaurants. Also worth paying the visit is exhibit in Guild Hall where you can compare models of old and new Kaifeng. Somehow we both ended up siding with old one as the more beautiful. While admiring old buildings we felt sadness about newly built theme and entertainment parks luring Chinese tourists. After spending day in Kaifeng we hoped on another night train to Qingdao, so called Chinese Switzerland and coastal town promising some true beach culture (a'la China).
Qingdao
Coastal city in Shandong province was under German concession for all 16 years from 1898. Still German influence on city architecture, spirit and people is palpable. Besides architecture which very much resembles Europe (German part of it) as both old and new building blend together unlike nowhere else in China, it offers beaches, parks and most of all brewery (the most famous and the biggest in China). Basically in day spent here we managed to see everything worthwhile except for that brewery. We explored streets (almost as hilly as those in Zizkov in Prague), churches (small and simply but still very much admired by gasping Chinese), parks (nice and very nicely located on hills of the city, offering good views of harbor and coastline) and beaches (crowded). Basically, besides churches and former German governor villa where Mao once spent his vacation and discussed plans for China's future, we just wondered freely from street to street in general beach direction. The best advice is to obtain some general simple map of Qingdao and walk around - all interesting (unless you enjoy business districts) is located within walking distance on peninsula on which Qingdao is spread.
We realized we are not in ordinary Chinese city immediately when we got off our train as train station is situated in historical building right in the heart of town. What a difference to enormous glass / steel / concrete behemoths of other places we visited (with only exception of Dunhuang with its classy modern train station blending traditional characteristics with modern materials and needs). After walking around city we parked ourselves at beach no. 1 for a quick swim in the sea and shower afterward (what a relief!). Getting our hands dirty munching on crab meat we realized it is time to run for a train or we would miss our trip to Tai shan. Of course, last minute arrival was at hand once again. Qingdao meant also end of our dash to eastern seashore as from now on we turned back to accomplish one last magnificent loop back to Shanghai.
Tai shan
We arrived to Tai shan around 10.30pm in accordance with our plan to climb this holly mountain of Taoism (the most visited one) in one long overnight hike in time for sunrise. We started our climb after refilling our supplies at c. 11.30pm by long walk across town. Although originally we were afraid whether there are any such fools like us to attempt the climb at night (Lonely Planet only briefly mentions that some of the Chinese do it) we learned very soon that our idea is not so original. Further up the mountain it looked sometimes like on Tian'an men square in the middle of day. Traffic jams ensued as apparently half of Shandong decided to climb Tai shan that night.
80 RMB (8 EUR) ticket gives you opportunity for four hours climb up the mountain and some shivering at the top. Surprisingly early morning was cold even though mountain itself has only 1,545 meters. Probably our totally sweated through T-shirts did not help as well. The climb is strenuously long and after first six kilometers of relatively modestly steep hike you start some serious step hoping. Steps seem to be never ending (similar to crowds) and when you think you reach the top you realize you have somewhere else to go. On your way you pass obligatory three gates to heaven (First, Middle and South Gate to heaven), extending hand greeting pine (as usual on all mountains in China) and other notable hills, sights and temples. Nature is rich in pine forests (but nowhere near the beauty of Sanqingshan - see next post) and temples which are mostly located on top.
Upon climbing to the top we decided to borrow (5 RMB / 0.5 EUR) army looking coat which must have remembered the Long march. After one hour of shivering and waiting for sunrise we ended up totally empty handed as with first rays of sunshine huge mist sprang along the cliffs and covered any view possible. We healed our hurt souls by visit to Dai Miao - temple where emperors started their climb up. Unlucky and still unsatisfied we returned down and hoped on the first train to Qufu.
Qufu
Qufu is an old small town and the birthplace of Confucius. Yet another quasi-historic town which got lucky as one of his former citizen and dissatisfied bureaucrat started what is today one of the three most important philosophies in China. Although he lived his life in poverty wandering from place to place around several provinces, his family - Kong - became over generations that followed one of the richest people in China, rivaling the court. Kong mansion and temple are both huge complexes located next to each other. Temple offers one-sided history of sage's life casting extremely positive light on his achievements. The philosophy suited (and still suits) perfectly those on top as it emphasizes hierarchical structure of society as wife respects husband, son respects father and commoners respect officials (pyramid goes on). The popularity of Confucianism shows perfectly that history in China is written not by the winners but by bureaucrats. Thus Qin emperor and the first one who united the whole China was viewed as malice and Confucius is revered. Although his philosophy is embraced even today, commercialization, capitalism, and individualism win the hearts of young generations (especially apparent in the cities).
Both temple and Kong family house offer nice view of Chinese traditional architecture with several halls impressively decorated and marvelous carvings on pillars of at least two major halls rivaling those at Forbidden city. After visiting both (ticket for about 150 kuai / 15 EUR) we transferred ourselves to his tomb. More like a family cemetery, it is where all members of Kong family are buried. It appears that this tradition will be broken as the eldest male heir of 78th generation escaped to Taiwan... Tombs show progression of ornaments and burial customs over the years and dynasties. Confucius tomb is simple small hill with single stone tablet marking it.
Beijing
From small, walled town Qufu we went to Beijing to see some wall. Basically we had one day in Beijing to spent as we were forced to return to Shanghai on fourth or third and we were planning to see Hangzhou on our way as well. As I have already seen Badaling part we decided to try Jinshanling. It is one of the longest parts available for hiking and connects directly to Simatai part. Taking bus 980 will bring you to Miyun. Of course local clique worked here as well and we were dropped in the middle of nowhere at bus station turned minibus station of some taxi drivers. We bargained hardly for rental of a car and we got best price of 25 per person (one way) to Jinshanling. Together with two Spanish girls we met in the bus from Beijing we set off.
Road to our destination should have give us warning of what to expect later but we happily ignored minor congestion and progressed to the main gate. Paying tickets (80 RMB / 8 EUR - no student discount available) opened wall of opportunity for us. We spent something like four hours hiking along the most beautiful part of Great Wall I had seen yet. Unlike Badaling it is not so renovated (only towards the end, near Simatai) and by far less populated. Ever present hawkers, if you push hard, offer decent discounts for drinks (just double the price in your local Walmart) and shirts (you can get one for 15-20 kuai (1.5-2 EUR). I would not even start with views and pictures I have taken - just wait till I upload something. Jinshanling part of the Great Wall spreads along horizon wherever you look. Sharp ascents and breathtaking descents are good for hikers. Don't worry about 'proper' equipment as it is possible to walk this part of the Wall with only sandals on. Upon paying another 40 RMB (4 RMB) at Simatai part of the Wall and another 5 RMB (0.5 EUR) for crossing rope bridge over river (no other option - we checked) we finished our journey by taking local bus (2 kuai / 0.2 EUR) to Miyun. This bus goes allegedly once a day at 2.30pm and is unknown to any foreigner (we are still grateful to local hostel stuff). Unfortunately, perfectly planned journey which should have enabled us to visit both Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven turned into five hour nightmare where we were really scarred to make it on time for our train again (we managed to squeeze some picture time at Tian'an men square).
Hangzhou
Night train (first class after three days without no shower) took us directly to Hangzhou where we managed to walk around Xi Hu (West lake), Lingyin temple (local super temple which turned into touristic gold mine as coach after coach after coach full of Chinese tourists turn at its gate) and Longjing village. This village is epicenter of the best green tea in China (Longjing - Dragon well). Plantations are all around hills south of Xi Hu and public transport buses run there. Anybody visiting Hangzhou should pay it a visit as calm environment is in as big as possible contrast to overcrowded shores of Xi Hu. Of course, that was a time to run again to the train station to catch our last one train to Shanghai (close but we did it).
Finally, last post about my crazy trip all over the middle China. Although, incredibly exhausting it was all worth it :) Next will follow the post about Sanqingshan - probably the most beautiful trip since I am in China. Stay tuned :)
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
