After much ado, huge snowfall and freezing weather which swept across European continent, I have decided to continue my tradition of skiing in Maribor, Slovenia. Although little off the map of usual ski loving population Mariborske Pohorje hosts FIS women slalom competition (‘Zlata Lisica’). The whole arrangement is very comfortable for me as I exploit good heartedness of my friends from Maribor, whom i met during my stay in Rotterdam, Netherlands as an exchange student.
Of course as usual with my travels complication caught up with me fairly soon. This time I hit the bump even before start of my journey. My perfect plan of 14 hours train ride (with four aimless wandering hours in Murzzuschlag incorporated) from Prague to Maribor fell apart as a house of cards. Of course, that also meant half a day less of skiing so instead of two full days I faced reality of mere 1.5 days of skiing. Anyway, thanks to train delay in Germany I would have missed my next connection in Vienna and as such I would have been forced either to spent a night in there or take a later train. Of course I choose the more comfortable way and enriched my brother's Friday evening by complaining about everything, eating all what was left in his fridge and forcing him to prepare crepes for us as a dinner of last resort.
This whole delay thing turned out to be sort of a blessing in disguise as 2 hours spent on Vienna Meidling train station (i.e. nine platforms without any station building or heated waiting room – in fact the least equipped train station I had pleasure to spent time on - including all those Chinese barnhouses) were maximum of what I could have taken in below zero weather. Vision of four hours of wandering around Murzzuschlag in case my original train would make it was pushed deeply in the dumpster of memories.
Making long story short – after my arrival to Maribor we went for afternoon skiing session. Heavy snowfall helped to provide us with the edge between lacklustre experience and memorable ski day. Shortly after dinner we gathered all who is important in Maribor and went for night of sports and hot wine. Plezka was word of the day as my hosts decided to introduce me to small wooden stool nailed to c. 60cm piece of old ski (meaning ski without any curvature) - home made skibobs we should say.
First ride was introductory (for me who was only one not familiar with this concept) with lights for night skiing on (yes we did ‘skate’ on the main slopes in between legs of skiers). Second ride was planned after some drinking session at skiing hut with the loudest music (not that we did not drink during first ride). At this hut we earned reverence of ‘Sef’ (a.k.a. the boss) to such an extent that he started giving us food for free. Of course our continuous ordering of 10 kuhano vino (hot vine) and liquer-weak colourful form of blue berry schnapps (Berentzen sort of mouth glue) greatly helped our cause.
We joined or better forced ourselves into attention of private party held at this hut. It turned out to be party of the most popular TV channel in Slovenia (POP TV). We danced shouted and drank till late late night and when all slope maintenance machines finished their work we tested our skating / sliding skills on newly woven manchester :)
Speeding downhill on wooden seat with no breaks (other than your feet and mouth), no steering mechanism (besides your feet and careful shifting of weight) and no lights (other than the stars and moon) turned out to be great fun. Of course prudent of you would argue that after litres of hot wine anything dangerous and crazy would look like great fun. Believe me, the sight of Maribor and its lights from the top of the slope was all worth it. With snow in any conceivable part of you clothing we went to bed happy and cold.
Next day few of us followed initial plan through and went for skiing as early as possible. We fully exploited fresh snow and newly built gondola (built only and exclusively because the old one literally fell down in fall last year - pun intended) as well as newly cut Pisker ski slope (one year old 40m wide ski slope with ultra quick chairlift and virtually no people). The monotonous up and down cycle was occasionally interrupted by hot tea breaks (somehow after excesses of previous night we could not muster any desire to drink hot wine). Monotonous because we literally had to hop on the chairlift as there were no people in line whenever we bothered to ski down :) We will see what will happen to this paradise when plan of prolonging Pisker ski slope to the bottom of Pohorje will be followed trough this summer. It will end its seclusion from main slopes of Pohorje (Stadion and Bellevue) by net of sophisticated connections. On the other hand lost gems of slopes between Areh and Bellevue will be even more forgotten (you can easily ski on perfectly maintained ski slopes by yourself) – which makes me giddy even thinking about it.
Anyway, after last ride down the icy trails we had our last dinner (best pizza since I came back) and I started my train journey to Prague. Besides one small feud with co-travellers about their need of keeping lights on after 2.00am journey was as boring as it can be :)
2/08/2010
1/02/2010
Skiing frenzy
In order to start new year in proper manner me, my brother and my two high school friends decided to go skiing. As I am pretty sure most of you are not interested in description of what I did on 1.1.2010, I guess you can take this as a recipe for cheap skiing.
We decided to go to the Slovakia's highest mountains - Tatras. There we planned to ski on one of the longest (if not the longest) ski slopes in my home country at Strbske Pleso resort. Of course, there are many other options to ski in Slovakia but me and my brother had very good experience from past and my friends were glad to tag along. Furthermore, in combination with special promotion with Slovakrail (personal rail transport provider in Slovakia) it was by far the cheapest option to ski on New Years Day.
In price of EUR 27 you purchase return ticket from any railway station in Slovakia, return ticket for Tatras' electric tram servicing cities in Tatras region, one day skipass (separate EUR 5 deposit is paid for skipass), 20% discount on rental of skiing gear in local rental shop and a tea at ski hut on top of the ski slopes (those less experienced can receive 10% discount on ski school). Similar promotions are available for various ski resorts across Slovakia (different conditions apply) and can be found on Slovakrail website.
Main idea was to go skiing on "day after" immediately upon opening of chairlifts when everybody will sleep off long celebrations (it also means that our celebrations were of very limited nature :) ) and we would enjoy empty slopes. Our predictions came through (at least for first two hours) and we enjoyed high quality skiing and incredible weather - perfect inversion. The best feeling is when you ski above clouds - little more worisome is feeling you have when skiing into that cloudy milk...
Anyway after good five hours of skiing we jumped on train and returned home tired like dogs (who wouldn't be after spending these hours cutting curves with knees bent). Wonderfully eventful day provided us with much needed activity after days of abundance and price made it even more awesome. One day ski pass outside of this promotion costs EUR 26.5 during high season and EUR 22 since Jan 4, 2010 till early March (outside of season one day skipass costs EUR 16). Hope at least somebody will find inspiration in this (at least Czech ski resorts and railways operators :)
We decided to go to the Slovakia's highest mountains - Tatras. There we planned to ski on one of the longest (if not the longest) ski slopes in my home country at Strbske Pleso resort. Of course, there are many other options to ski in Slovakia but me and my brother had very good experience from past and my friends were glad to tag along. Furthermore, in combination with special promotion with Slovakrail (personal rail transport provider in Slovakia) it was by far the cheapest option to ski on New Years Day.
In price of EUR 27 you purchase return ticket from any railway station in Slovakia, return ticket for Tatras' electric tram servicing cities in Tatras region, one day skipass (separate EUR 5 deposit is paid for skipass), 20% discount on rental of skiing gear in local rental shop and a tea at ski hut on top of the ski slopes (those less experienced can receive 10% discount on ski school). Similar promotions are available for various ski resorts across Slovakia (different conditions apply) and can be found on Slovakrail website.
Main idea was to go skiing on "day after" immediately upon opening of chairlifts when everybody will sleep off long celebrations (it also means that our celebrations were of very limited nature :) ) and we would enjoy empty slopes. Our predictions came through (at least for first two hours) and we enjoyed high quality skiing and incredible weather - perfect inversion. The best feeling is when you ski above clouds - little more worisome is feeling you have when skiing into that cloudy milk...
Anyway after good five hours of skiing we jumped on train and returned home tired like dogs (who wouldn't be after spending these hours cutting curves with knees bent). Wonderfully eventful day provided us with much needed activity after days of abundance and price made it even more awesome. One day ski pass outside of this promotion costs EUR 26.5 during high season and EUR 22 since Jan 4, 2010 till early March (outside of season one day skipass costs EUR 16). Hope at least somebody will find inspiration in this (at least Czech ski resorts and railways operators :)
12/31/2009
HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
I wish all of you HAPPY NEW YEAR 2010! ENJOY and celebrate like no other! Travel and explore like never before! And always remember - WORK HARD BUT PARTY HARDER :)
Happy and lucky 2010!
Happy and lucky 2010!
11/06/2009
Empire strikes back!
Although back in my old routine (i.e. work work work) I feel need to share with you my joy that the balance in force was restored and the universe returned back to order. In a galaxy of stars on sports' sky there is no brighter star then New York Yankees!
As even the brighter ones (double pun intended - wonder who would understand it actually) of you have probably noticed Yankees became World Champions for the 27th time after winning sixth game of their 40th World Series.
By beating Philadelphia Phillies in six games they ended nine year drought since their last championship in 2000. The four "fathers" from the previous dynasty (Derek Jeter, Andy Pettitte, Mariano Rivera and Jorge Posada) - a.k.a. The Core - surrounded by highly (Alex Rodriguez, C.C. Sabathia) and not so highly (just about anyone else) paid ballplayers did not hesitate to wrap up World Series at home and confirm Yankees' position as the winning-est team in baseball.
Only minor kink on this beautiful day is awareness of the fact that on our way to the 27th pennant we were not able to trash the Red Sox. Let us enjoy tomorrow's parade through Canyon of Heroes and soak in glare of glory :) Let's go Yankees!
May the force be with you!
As even the brighter ones (double pun intended - wonder who would understand it actually) of you have probably noticed Yankees became World Champions for the 27th time after winning sixth game of their 40th World Series.
By beating Philadelphia Phillies in six games they ended nine year drought since their last championship in 2000. The four "fathers" from the previous dynasty (Derek Jeter, Andy Pettitte, Mariano Rivera and Jorge Posada) - a.k.a. The Core - surrounded by highly (Alex Rodriguez, C.C. Sabathia) and not so highly (just about anyone else) paid ballplayers did not hesitate to wrap up World Series at home and confirm Yankees' position as the winning-est team in baseball.
Only minor kink on this beautiful day is awareness of the fact that on our way to the 27th pennant we were not able to trash the Red Sox. Let us enjoy tomorrow's parade through Canyon of Heroes and soak in glare of glory :) Let's go Yankees!
May the force be with you!
10/11/2009
Running wild!
Eight months after my last big run in Honk Kong I still stick to my plan of two half-marathons per year. During first Sunday of October I decided to run half-marathon as a part of Kosice Peace Marathon meeting (Kosice Peace Marathon is the oldest marathon on an old continent and one of the oldest in the world). I am very happy to report that I was successful and able to finish it. Of course, one have to point out that my time was the worst so far (1:54:44 - official) but considering the volume of training I did I am fully satisfied. Due to ongoing teeth problems I was not able to train and altogether run for 12km prior to the event. My finish was very much product of my will and overall atmosphere (easily the best I have experienced during half-marathons) then my physical ability. To redeem myself I already plan my next 'move' which will be announced later :)
8/27/2009
So Long, and Thanks for All the Fish!
This is actually my last post from Middle Kingdom (for now) and as such it will be very brief. Main reason for that is to avoid any pathetic crap people usually write when departing place they lived for some time. Crap will follow in September when I will sort out my thoughts and write things I did not manage yet.
It was fun! I'd gladly come back. And really, thanks for all the fish :D :P :)
Adijo!
It was fun! I'd gladly come back. And really, thanks for all the fish :D :P :)
Adijo!
8/26/2009
Into the unknown
As this is probably the last meaningful post from the Chinese soil, it is only the most appropriate to write about the most memorable trip I took in China. I don't dare to say that this was the best but it ranks high up there. On other trips I have seen more things and I have more time to soak up the atmosphere but three days in Sanqingshan (SQS) offered condensed experience and everything you can wish for for a trip in mountains. I promise that this time it will be much shorter than those novels no one wants to read I have offered previously.
We decided to explore SQS - an UNESCO listed mountain in Jiangxi province. As not mentioned (yet) in Lonely Planet, we can consider ourselves lucky as we were positively one of the first westerners to visit this national park. Of course, Chinese tours make their presence felt even here. SQS is located c. six to seven hours by train (normal speed train) but can be approached by D-train within four hours limit. We took a D-train to Quzhou in Zhenjiang province where we transferred for a bus to northern gate of the SQS National Park. Thanks to the courtesy of our bus driver, we were dropped by other bus at the original bus driver family house, where we found roof for the night. What we saved on accommodation (70 RMB / 7 EUR for two people) we overpaid on food. Although we were offered the option of a chicken to be killed just for us, we preferred veggie and fish dinner at our hotel :)
Getting up at 5.30am and on trail at 6.30am was first achievement of the day. We continued to climb through wonderful subtropical forest for good three hours. Towards the end I discovered my second (this time unrepairable) mistake. Battery in my camera was not charged. Unlike pictures from Chengdu which I completely restored upon my return to Shanghai, this time no such luck was at hand. I left my recharger at home as just before we left I checked and found battery fully charged. Probably it has something to do with incredible humidity in the area but by the time we reached our first crossing, battery was absolutely empty. Therefore there will be no pictures from the most beautiful national park I have seen in China so far.
Anyway, after three hour steep ascent from Northern gate we reached the first crossing where we took direct way to Sanqing temple. Entrance to the park is paid on top of long long flight of steps so basically you are happy to do anything they ask you (80 RMB / 8 EUR for student after 50% discount - not only one of the most beautiful but also the most expensive mountain in China). There we explored beauty of place (another short loop with beautiful views of surrounding mountains and temple area is available) and paid our homage to Taoist gods (at least one of us). After short meal (be warned that SQS is considerably expensive mountain compared to others in China - 30 RMB / 3 EUR for roasted rice and this was the cheapest dish) we continued along the Sunshine coast - a plank road on Northeastern cliff of the mountain. We took the first chance to ditch this way as this was our relax route for next day and climbed the highest peak in the area - Yujing shan (1,817 meters). All the way we enjoyed incredible views of pine forests, huge rocks and granite boulders and many many dragonflies :) On top we made quick acquittance with whole Japanese family or tour and left for some more adventure.
On our way down we took temporarily or permanently closed road which continued in our preferred direction. The road was closed probably because of the rockslide which destroyed only a hut on trail but otherwise it was perfectly safe way (although much steeper then our ascent trail). We reached West coast sea road (plank road rimming Southwestern cliff of SQS) and continued through other peaks and gates (understand - tiny cracks in between huge walls of rocks) towards fascinating shapes and compositions of boulders in eastern part of the park. There we saw boa towering over the pines, statue of goddess with head gently inclined and many others. Best thing came shortly before final descent to our targeted hotel. On a plateau around Yutian scenery spot we saw our first Buddha light - the very famous and in China very revered natural phenomenon when rainbow shapes up in the perfect circle. It looks awesome especially if you position you head in the middle :) We were left speechless for good twenty minutes and acted like little giddy children who got some super cool new toy (of course I complained constantly about my camera because chance to see Buddha's light is extremely rare). Afterward we descended to our hotel, had a quick dinner and tired went to bed - after 13 hours of constant hiking and c. 1,700 vertical meters we were pretty much spent for the day. Accommodation on the mountain is frankly of very poor quality and certainly extremely overpriced. From our inquiries we settled for the cheapest option of 260 RMB (26 EUR) for two person accommodation in dirty, full of bugs and humid room. Unfortunately our hotel (the one called 'hotel' also on map of the area - others are called villas) was the best on the mountain - at least from outside look.
Next day we woke up at 4.00am and run our tired legs towards Yutian plateau to see the sunrise. We enjoyed whole experience uninterrupted by anyone else as most of the Chinese tourists came towards the end of the whole show. Colors and sky with sparse clouds were fantastic (easily the best sunrise of all my attempts around China - with majority being bust). Cherry on top was visit of uncle eagle on our way back. He flew towards our bright colored jackets to check upon those rude intruders within 10 meters and sailed away to hunt for some breakfast. Still giddy but feeling already tired from extremities of yesterday we filled our stomachs as well and continued our journey around West coast and Sunshine coast plank roads to complete our exploration of SQS. If previous day and morning were almost tourist free, then rest of the day was from classic Chinese tourist book - people everywhere. After seeing monkey king with his treasure we decided to run for our lives and peace of our souls and finished the loop as early as possible. Totally exhausted we jumped on cable car and descended to Southern gate of National Park (my co-traveler almost killed herself from exhaustion as she was so excited to finish the trip that she literally flew down last 20 steps bruising any part of her body possible - except for head).
Upon descent we took local bus (two hour bumpy bus ride for 15 RMB / 1.5 EUR) to Yushan and after big dinner with famous chicken being cooked finally we jumped on sleeper train to Shanghai. SQS is magnificent mountain with extremely green pine forests in higher and subtropical jungle in lower elevation. Granite boulders and rocks make you wonder 'what are men compared to rocks and mountains' in line with heroes of that Austen girl. Anyway, although beautiful in nature it is already being kissed by Chinese tourism authority and build up in and around SQS National Park is in full throttle. On the other hand, it might improve competition and quality of accommodation on mountain since currently it is abysmal. My personal disagreement is with Jiangxi cuisine as I find other Chinese cuisines better and more nutritious. Be alert that this is still undiscovered corner of China for Western traveler as no Lonely Planet guide described it and therefore everything is in Chinese standards :)
We decided to explore SQS - an UNESCO listed mountain in Jiangxi province. As not mentioned (yet) in Lonely Planet, we can consider ourselves lucky as we were positively one of the first westerners to visit this national park. Of course, Chinese tours make their presence felt even here. SQS is located c. six to seven hours by train (normal speed train) but can be approached by D-train within four hours limit. We took a D-train to Quzhou in Zhenjiang province where we transferred for a bus to northern gate of the SQS National Park. Thanks to the courtesy of our bus driver, we were dropped by other bus at the original bus driver family house, where we found roof for the night. What we saved on accommodation (70 RMB / 7 EUR for two people) we overpaid on food. Although we were offered the option of a chicken to be killed just for us, we preferred veggie and fish dinner at our hotel :)
Getting up at 5.30am and on trail at 6.30am was first achievement of the day. We continued to climb through wonderful subtropical forest for good three hours. Towards the end I discovered my second (this time unrepairable) mistake. Battery in my camera was not charged. Unlike pictures from Chengdu which I completely restored upon my return to Shanghai, this time no such luck was at hand. I left my recharger at home as just before we left I checked and found battery fully charged. Probably it has something to do with incredible humidity in the area but by the time we reached our first crossing, battery was absolutely empty. Therefore there will be no pictures from the most beautiful national park I have seen in China so far.
Anyway, after three hour steep ascent from Northern gate we reached the first crossing where we took direct way to Sanqing temple. Entrance to the park is paid on top of long long flight of steps so basically you are happy to do anything they ask you (80 RMB / 8 EUR for student after 50% discount - not only one of the most beautiful but also the most expensive mountain in China). There we explored beauty of place (another short loop with beautiful views of surrounding mountains and temple area is available) and paid our homage to Taoist gods (at least one of us). After short meal (be warned that SQS is considerably expensive mountain compared to others in China - 30 RMB / 3 EUR for roasted rice and this was the cheapest dish) we continued along the Sunshine coast - a plank road on Northeastern cliff of the mountain. We took the first chance to ditch this way as this was our relax route for next day and climbed the highest peak in the area - Yujing shan (1,817 meters). All the way we enjoyed incredible views of pine forests, huge rocks and granite boulders and many many dragonflies :) On top we made quick acquittance with whole Japanese family or tour and left for some more adventure.
On our way down we took temporarily or permanently closed road which continued in our preferred direction. The road was closed probably because of the rockslide which destroyed only a hut on trail but otherwise it was perfectly safe way (although much steeper then our ascent trail). We reached West coast sea road (plank road rimming Southwestern cliff of SQS) and continued through other peaks and gates (understand - tiny cracks in between huge walls of rocks) towards fascinating shapes and compositions of boulders in eastern part of the park. There we saw boa towering over the pines, statue of goddess with head gently inclined and many others. Best thing came shortly before final descent to our targeted hotel. On a plateau around Yutian scenery spot we saw our first Buddha light - the very famous and in China very revered natural phenomenon when rainbow shapes up in the perfect circle. It looks awesome especially if you position you head in the middle :) We were left speechless for good twenty minutes and acted like little giddy children who got some super cool new toy (of course I complained constantly about my camera because chance to see Buddha's light is extremely rare). Afterward we descended to our hotel, had a quick dinner and tired went to bed - after 13 hours of constant hiking and c. 1,700 vertical meters we were pretty much spent for the day. Accommodation on the mountain is frankly of very poor quality and certainly extremely overpriced. From our inquiries we settled for the cheapest option of 260 RMB (26 EUR) for two person accommodation in dirty, full of bugs and humid room. Unfortunately our hotel (the one called 'hotel' also on map of the area - others are called villas) was the best on the mountain - at least from outside look.
Next day we woke up at 4.00am and run our tired legs towards Yutian plateau to see the sunrise. We enjoyed whole experience uninterrupted by anyone else as most of the Chinese tourists came towards the end of the whole show. Colors and sky with sparse clouds were fantastic (easily the best sunrise of all my attempts around China - with majority being bust). Cherry on top was visit of uncle eagle on our way back. He flew towards our bright colored jackets to check upon those rude intruders within 10 meters and sailed away to hunt for some breakfast. Still giddy but feeling already tired from extremities of yesterday we filled our stomachs as well and continued our journey around West coast and Sunshine coast plank roads to complete our exploration of SQS. If previous day and morning were almost tourist free, then rest of the day was from classic Chinese tourist book - people everywhere. After seeing monkey king with his treasure we decided to run for our lives and peace of our souls and finished the loop as early as possible. Totally exhausted we jumped on cable car and descended to Southern gate of National Park (my co-traveler almost killed herself from exhaustion as she was so excited to finish the trip that she literally flew down last 20 steps bruising any part of her body possible - except for head).
Upon descent we took local bus (two hour bumpy bus ride for 15 RMB / 1.5 EUR) to Yushan and after big dinner with famous chicken being cooked finally we jumped on sleeper train to Shanghai. SQS is magnificent mountain with extremely green pine forests in higher and subtropical jungle in lower elevation. Granite boulders and rocks make you wonder 'what are men compared to rocks and mountains' in line with heroes of that Austen girl. Anyway, although beautiful in nature it is already being kissed by Chinese tourism authority and build up in and around SQS National Park is in full throttle. On the other hand, it might improve competition and quality of accommodation on mountain since currently it is abysmal. My personal disagreement is with Jiangxi cuisine as I find other Chinese cuisines better and more nutritious. Be alert that this is still undiscovered corner of China for Western traveler as no Lonely Planet guide described it and therefore everything is in Chinese standards :)
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