Seven weeks (not sure actually anymore) into my prolonged business trip to Romanian capital and I still feel a bit unfamiliar with Romania. Maybe it’s because I have not seen the country yet and my stay is so far limited to Bucharest. Maybe it’s because it is truly country on periphery of Europe where various cultures mixed over past two millennia. Or maybe it’s because it is true that as you travel east you travel back in time as well (right now it is Czech Republic and Slovakia in early 1990’s all over again). Anyway for those who are not ready to read long long post here is short summary: a) the more restaurants you visit the better chance you have eating actually well (shotgun approach recommended), b) dogs travel in packs and look alike but locals love them anyway, c) cars are everyone’s best friend, d) Bucharest is one city in need of London’s congestion charge, e) second dustiest city of Europe I had pleasure to visit, f) aah those woman :) Below comes the long version.
Eating
We had ‘pleasure’ to try number of restaurants around the city. Although all of the restaurants showed some flaw, average Joe would be satisfied in couple of them. Local cuisine is a bit heavy but all eateries offer variety of fish dishes on their menu which is positively awesome after beer and pork diet of Czech counterparts. Oh yeah, and there is that lemonade.
Among the best we had pleasure to dine at were; Le Bistro at Centerville complex (a bit pricey and got worn out after third visit) which can be found at the back of Radisson hotel, Harbour (with slightly overpriced dishes when considering quality) – an expat joint at Piata Amzei and French restaurant opposite to Dirty Harry’s pub at pedestrian city center. Nice trendy atmosphere can be found in local Hard Rock Cafe at city’s biggest park whose name I do not dare to guess.
Definitely best location to go out for dinner, couple of drinks and summer / spring walk is pedestrian zone between National Bank and Piata Unirii – also known as Old Town. In there you can find Irish pub on every corner and cocktail and cafe bars in between. All of the restaurants have summer gardens prepared as soon as the weather permits with the staff and overall atmosphere (of hip youth) making you feel that the legends about Paris of the east were actually right.
Wine
Hm, where to start? Coming in I did not have much expectation for tasting or even drinking any wine but as usual I was completely wrong :) Seems like winemaking in Romania is fairly big and as hopeful future winemaker (more on this in next posts) I felt obliged to try as much of local wine as possible. Of course business dinners helped greatly :)
Anyway, I have to admit that Romanian wine (especially Prince Matei merlot) is the second biggest positive surprise I stumbled upon here (the biggest are undisputedly women). Especially reds are wonderful and fully rounded (still talking about wine, for girls see below) to such an extent that they reversed my recent obsession with whites.
Cars and congestions
Completely different story is traffic in Romanian capital. Seems like every citizen feels urgent need to invest his lifelong savings into some new / old big / small piece of metal. And when doing so, he needs to notify everyone around and honks as much as possible, making streets noisy like a true jungle.
Truly to the free spirits of buccaneers, these pirates on wheels use traffic rules more like a guidelines than actual rules. Instead of facilitating traffic flow, local drivers and their driving style (every green light results in formula like acceleration only to break as hard as possible 100 meters farther) make awesome ground for enormous congestions Bucharest has to deal with every day. Congestions happen despite unusually wide boulevards with three or even more lanes in one direction.
I have to admit, there is unusually large number of fancy expensive cars (from Porsches to Bentleys and everything you can imagine in between) for a city with buildings literally falling apart. My thorough research into the matter resulted in various answers but clear theme emerged, stating that Romanians like to show off and the best way to do that is by buying a car. Of course, I did not understand why would anybody need to show off so much and especially when 80% of old grand villas in the city centre are falling apart piece by piece. Why not to invest into real estate? Here the answers were not that clear and ranged from: real estate is expensive and out of reach for ordinary man, to: in past we did not have enough cars and now we can buy it so we buy it, or: to show off is in our Balkan nature and we are who we are.
My friend (also Romanian and owing already two cars with his wife) asked me what I think Romanian man would do with EUR 20,000 which he won in lottery. My answer that he would immediately buy a car was incorrect. He would borrow another EUR 20,000 and buy a BMW :) Other people added that he would buy BMW and still continue to live in his crappy old apartment from 70’s.
Dogs
As you have already heard (I hope), Romania and especially Bucharest are well known for their dog population. This is just to confirm that all the rumours are true and not at all exaggerating. So called community dogs roam the streets either alone or in packs and citizens do not complain. Even more, they enjoy their company. Any attempt to get rid of these dogs met stark resistance (e.g. one of past majors tried to do that and now he ended up as a president). Local people feed them resulting in obese population (mainly in city centre) compared to outskirts shanty town cousins of industrial district. As killing them is deemed inhuman they are left to reproduce and multiply.
Girls, women and ladies
This is another rumour I can completely confirm. Girls in Romania are one of the most beautiful in the world. Dark haired, flirty and never far away from laugh, they are the one good thing which make anyone like show off nature of Balkan people. In this case it means they dress more carefully and with greater sense.
Dust and everything else
Besides passion for red fountains (no clue why) citizens of Bucharest enjoy flowers above all. I guess this is to enliven dusty environment they live in. After Moscow, Bucharest is the dustiest city (besides those desert towns around Taklamakan) I have pleasure to visit. Unexpectedly, without any desert in sight and flushed in rich Danube estuary, Bucharest is covered in veil of dust.
Most of my observations are affected by the fact that I have not been able to get out of the city and stayed for past two months within city proper. Even receptionist at our hotel expressed hope for me to “see other parts of Romania which are by far better than Bucharest” :)
5/27/2010
4/05/2010
Spring is finally here!
Winter is finally gone! Once again sky is blue, water is wet and new baseball season just began :) Yesterday marked begining of new Major League Baseball season and there is no better way to open it other than starting another chapter in the biggest rivalry in sports. Boston Red Sox played New York Yankees (a defending World Series Champion) at Fenway :) Forget football, hockey or basketball - baseball at American League East is what it is about for next seven months :)
Enjoy the spring!
Enjoy the spring!
3/28/2010
I did it! I did it! I did it! 2.0
Hehe today I am all giddy as for the fourth time I managed to run a half marathon (this time I successfully completed course of PIM). As a cherry on top I improved my personal best and run it in 1.39.23 (official) or 1.39.27 (my own measurement) depending on view :) Anyway, kudos to fellow runners from Deloitte (Peter, Dalibor, Garret and Miro) and my brother who again successfully beat me by almost six minutes (that little freak run it in 1.33.45). Besides terrible wind, weather conditions were ideal for runners and although course was a bit too up and down I enjoyed it pretty much - thank you!
3/05/2010
Springs of culture
Finally spring arrived to Prague and in its footsteps my mom for a short visit combined with conference she participated at. Upon her request we make arrangements for all three of us to visit certain cultural events. Events handpicked by my little brother were concert of Czech Philharmonic Orchestra (with Sir John Eliot Gardiner acting as visiting conductor) and theatre play Hrdina Zapadu (written by Mr. John Millington Synge) in Cinoherni klub. This weekend with its loaded cultural program turned out to be ideal spring board for our eight concert marathon during Prague Spring festival (oh boy am I giddy about this :) ).
We were particularly delighted by tickets to Sir Gardiner concert as we previously fruitlessly pursued these for his Prague Spring performances. Czech Philharmonic Orchestra under his leadership played two Schuman’s symphonies (Concert piece for 4 horns and Symphony no. 2 C dur op. 61) and two pieces from Mr. Martinu (Symphony no. 6 and Frescoes of Piero della Francesca). Two and a half hour long pure delight of music put all three of us into completely different dimension. Of course, some mean individuals would be all too eager to point out that me and my brother drunk ourselves to this dimension as we drunk three and four pilsner beers during our dinner just before the concert – believe me (as I want to believe myself) it was not the case. Especially the Concert piece and its horns’ parts were particularly beautiful causing my mom to reflect on it and happily talk about it for the rest of the weekend.
For the first time I had also opportunity to see an artist who knows his value and is not willing to reward audience which does not value his performance. Especially during last part of the concert some of spectators were napping or their heads started nodding. Also during applause those who preferred to get their coats and jackets as soon as possible turned their backs to Sir Gardiner and orchestra hurrying towards the exits. Seeing this, Sir Gardiner turned his back in return and left the podium although half of us applauded while standing. Hats off for his courage :) Of course, more possible explanation would be that he was really tired after more than two hours of intensive physical conducting (and sweating from pure exhaustion).
On Saturday we decided to quench our thirst for theatre and experienced above mentioned play. Maybe a socially groundbreaking play in 1900’s and also winner of 2007 Radok Prize for the best production, we did not find it particularly funny or outstanding. Probably it is due to fact that we do not find couple of curses and middle finger that humorous...
Anyway, overall it was pleasant experience and some culture for all of us after long winter hiatus. Let the Prague Spring come!
We were particularly delighted by tickets to Sir Gardiner concert as we previously fruitlessly pursued these for his Prague Spring performances. Czech Philharmonic Orchestra under his leadership played two Schuman’s symphonies (Concert piece for 4 horns and Symphony no. 2 C dur op. 61) and two pieces from Mr. Martinu (Symphony no. 6 and Frescoes of Piero della Francesca). Two and a half hour long pure delight of music put all three of us into completely different dimension. Of course, some mean individuals would be all too eager to point out that me and my brother drunk ourselves to this dimension as we drunk three and four pilsner beers during our dinner just before the concert – believe me (as I want to believe myself) it was not the case. Especially the Concert piece and its horns’ parts were particularly beautiful causing my mom to reflect on it and happily talk about it for the rest of the weekend.
For the first time I had also opportunity to see an artist who knows his value and is not willing to reward audience which does not value his performance. Especially during last part of the concert some of spectators were napping or their heads started nodding. Also during applause those who preferred to get their coats and jackets as soon as possible turned their backs to Sir Gardiner and orchestra hurrying towards the exits. Seeing this, Sir Gardiner turned his back in return and left the podium although half of us applauded while standing. Hats off for his courage :) Of course, more possible explanation would be that he was really tired after more than two hours of intensive physical conducting (and sweating from pure exhaustion).
On Saturday we decided to quench our thirst for theatre and experienced above mentioned play. Maybe a socially groundbreaking play in 1900’s and also winner of 2007 Radok Prize for the best production, we did not find it particularly funny or outstanding. Probably it is due to fact that we do not find couple of curses and middle finger that humorous...
Anyway, overall it was pleasant experience and some culture for all of us after long winter hiatus. Let the Prague Spring come!
2/17/2010
On casting
The first contribution (rather too long) in the newly launched ‘On series’ will focus on intelligence and degrees of intelligence as I see it. It will briefly outline three casts of intelligence or stupidity as one might say (the one who sees glasses half empty rather than half full) – smart, average and stupid. Furthermore, we will explore their life prospects and coexistence with other casts. Of course, theory is far from complete or perfect and as such it does not encompass all aspects of life or outliers (e.g. professor of physics from former Soviet Union country who cleans toilettes in CALTECH, or Will Hunting who is social outcast and ignored by the system). Anyway, if you find it boring please skip it and wait for more interesting travel topics :)
The whole theory is based on axiom of motivation to work. This axiom (invented during some excessive drinking sessions and following deliriums in December 2009 and January 2010) states that all of us are motivated to work only by two things – remuneration (or money) and self-realisation. Please note that this is in line with basic assumptions of classical economics* :) We try to maximize our utility and this can be done either by buying things (for money) or by creating something lasting / useful (sort of self-realisation).
The world as I see it, is a home to three distinct casts of people: a) those who are smart enough to establish their own companies, posses unique brain power to invent and come up with world altering solutions, b) average or not-so-smart people who are smart enough not to work manually and use (sort of) their brain to earn their living, and last but not least c) stupid. Third cast’s name is not meant in derogative form and I would personally refer to it as rather imprecise but all encompassing and generalising. It is used only due to fact that cast includes also people of wrong character who do not deserve any other title. Besides criminals it complies of all manual workers who live by their hands and administration employees (e.g. state and government bureaucracy).
As already mentioned first cast is of Brims and Gates who establish their companies and boldly explore opportunities market economy offers**. Alongside entrepreneurs we should put scientists who have gift of superior intelligence and decide to use it in research rather than commercial way. To those individuals belongs my biggest admiration (also I am compensating for my lack of intelligence as I do not see myself anywhere in their company :) ). Unlike entrepreneurs, scientists never become ultrarich but are happiest folks of them all anyway. Commercially successful inventors become rich beyond any measure but need extensive network of ‘mediocre’ protectors – more on that in a moment. Only certain individuals of ultrarich ‘businessmen’ who exploited lawlessness following fall of communism are included in this cast. 99% of them are criminals but that one percent is smart enough to keep their riches together and increase their wealth even after law and order was brought to town.
Second cast, the cast where I humbly position myself, people of mediocre intelligence who are not capable of great things but are good enough for middle management. They are employees of private sector working on management positions and creating standards and templates to facilitate understanding of processes and tasks. Second cast is the buffer cast separating the bright from the stupid. Included in this cast are all the advisory firms which feed of potential and ideas of the smart ones. Any accounting, financial advisory and services firm is basically creating buffer between inventors and consumers and criminals. Basically we can say that finance industry is run by average for protection of smart from stupid. While smart invent, average play with numbers so the stupid buy the ideas of smart and / or do not steal from smart. This was handily summarised by prof. K. J. Arrow in his lecture given at Fudan University in Shanghai, China on 30 October 2008: ‘Economists are the guardians of possibilities of civilisation’ (I am 99% sure he meant something different but anyway...).
Third and the last cast is the cast of those who mindlessly consume products invented by smart and sold by average. Of course, same stupid need to manually produce these products in a first place :) In order to avoid manual work they cheat or try to get into one of the previously mentioned classes. This attempt is encouraged by government (usually by attempting to increase percentage of college educated population) which itself comprises of stupid.
We assume that no smart man will waste his time and energy on politics (fairly obvious observation) as he will find better remuneration or self-realisation in research or business. Assumption was violated in 19th century when institutional environment and blending of public and private institutions (e.g. East India Company) enabled satisfactory self-realisation for young men in service of her majesty.
Mingling of the categories is possible as some of the average end up in first class - by exploiting certain circumstances specific for time and place (e.g. Central and Eastern Europe in 1990’s and China today, offering opportunities for eager and bold students to study in the US); some of the stupid end up in second cast (mostly criminals who in attempt to disguise their lack of brain or ability, cover their tracks in illegal manner – e.g. cases of Nick Leeson and Jerome Kerviel) and vice versa (for both examples listed). Although jumping two classes above or below your abilities is extremely difficult it is possible in certain extraordinary circumstances (e.g. revolutions, dictatorship, military junta or anarchy).
This mingling of the casts is main facilitator of economic crisis as in time of plenty we (especially average – charged with protection of smart) let our guard down and allow sufficiently high number of stupid to enter our ranks and to wreak havoc in the system. Imagine giving control panel (managed by average) of nuclear arsenal (assembled by smart ones) to a toddler (guess who). Same goes with mingling of first and second cast as system encourages sufficiently high number of average to enter the cast of smart and dilute the invention process (some degenerate rip off of Schumpeter’s business cycle theory).
Anyway, as you can see although broadly outlined this theory still does not cover all aspects of life. Additional angles can be revealed later in other posts or in comments section. This post’s aim was to sketch ideas I was playing with in past few months and propose simple explanation of some aspects of our lives. If you find it interesting please do not hesitate to post your comments below (usual decency rules apply).
Notes: * JFGI; ** Cases of other regimes will be discussed in following posts.
The whole theory is based on axiom of motivation to work. This axiom (invented during some excessive drinking sessions and following deliriums in December 2009 and January 2010) states that all of us are motivated to work only by two things – remuneration (or money) and self-realisation. Please note that this is in line with basic assumptions of classical economics* :) We try to maximize our utility and this can be done either by buying things (for money) or by creating something lasting / useful (sort of self-realisation).
The world as I see it, is a home to three distinct casts of people: a) those who are smart enough to establish their own companies, posses unique brain power to invent and come up with world altering solutions, b) average or not-so-smart people who are smart enough not to work manually and use (sort of) their brain to earn their living, and last but not least c) stupid. Third cast’s name is not meant in derogative form and I would personally refer to it as rather imprecise but all encompassing and generalising. It is used only due to fact that cast includes also people of wrong character who do not deserve any other title. Besides criminals it complies of all manual workers who live by their hands and administration employees (e.g. state and government bureaucracy).
As already mentioned first cast is of Brims and Gates who establish their companies and boldly explore opportunities market economy offers**. Alongside entrepreneurs we should put scientists who have gift of superior intelligence and decide to use it in research rather than commercial way. To those individuals belongs my biggest admiration (also I am compensating for my lack of intelligence as I do not see myself anywhere in their company :) ). Unlike entrepreneurs, scientists never become ultrarich but are happiest folks of them all anyway. Commercially successful inventors become rich beyond any measure but need extensive network of ‘mediocre’ protectors – more on that in a moment. Only certain individuals of ultrarich ‘businessmen’ who exploited lawlessness following fall of communism are included in this cast. 99% of them are criminals but that one percent is smart enough to keep their riches together and increase their wealth even after law and order was brought to town.
Second cast, the cast where I humbly position myself, people of mediocre intelligence who are not capable of great things but are good enough for middle management. They are employees of private sector working on management positions and creating standards and templates to facilitate understanding of processes and tasks. Second cast is the buffer cast separating the bright from the stupid. Included in this cast are all the advisory firms which feed of potential and ideas of the smart ones. Any accounting, financial advisory and services firm is basically creating buffer between inventors and consumers and criminals. Basically we can say that finance industry is run by average for protection of smart from stupid. While smart invent, average play with numbers so the stupid buy the ideas of smart and / or do not steal from smart. This was handily summarised by prof. K. J. Arrow in his lecture given at Fudan University in Shanghai, China on 30 October 2008: ‘Economists are the guardians of possibilities of civilisation’ (I am 99% sure he meant something different but anyway...).
Third and the last cast is the cast of those who mindlessly consume products invented by smart and sold by average. Of course, same stupid need to manually produce these products in a first place :) In order to avoid manual work they cheat or try to get into one of the previously mentioned classes. This attempt is encouraged by government (usually by attempting to increase percentage of college educated population) which itself comprises of stupid.
We assume that no smart man will waste his time and energy on politics (fairly obvious observation) as he will find better remuneration or self-realisation in research or business. Assumption was violated in 19th century when institutional environment and blending of public and private institutions (e.g. East India Company) enabled satisfactory self-realisation for young men in service of her majesty.
Mingling of the categories is possible as some of the average end up in first class - by exploiting certain circumstances specific for time and place (e.g. Central and Eastern Europe in 1990’s and China today, offering opportunities for eager and bold students to study in the US); some of the stupid end up in second cast (mostly criminals who in attempt to disguise their lack of brain or ability, cover their tracks in illegal manner – e.g. cases of Nick Leeson and Jerome Kerviel) and vice versa (for both examples listed). Although jumping two classes above or below your abilities is extremely difficult it is possible in certain extraordinary circumstances (e.g. revolutions, dictatorship, military junta or anarchy).
This mingling of the casts is main facilitator of economic crisis as in time of plenty we (especially average – charged with protection of smart) let our guard down and allow sufficiently high number of stupid to enter our ranks and to wreak havoc in the system. Imagine giving control panel (managed by average) of nuclear arsenal (assembled by smart ones) to a toddler (guess who). Same goes with mingling of first and second cast as system encourages sufficiently high number of average to enter the cast of smart and dilute the invention process (some degenerate rip off of Schumpeter’s business cycle theory).
Anyway, as you can see although broadly outlined this theory still does not cover all aspects of life. Additional angles can be revealed later in other posts or in comments section. This post’s aim was to sketch ideas I was playing with in past few months and propose simple explanation of some aspects of our lives. If you find it interesting please do not hesitate to post your comments below (usual decency rules apply).
Notes: * JFGI; ** Cases of other regimes will be discussed in following posts.
2/12/2010
On series
As most of you already noticed I returned from China sometime in September 2009. Happily joining taxpaying workforce in Czech Republic I have realized that my China focused blog is not up to date (so to say). In view of this truly life changing realization i have decided to reload my blog and make it more ‘present’. Starting now, I am launching new series of so called 'On' articles.
Don’t be worried ya ole traveller! Besides the On series I will continue to provide you with description of my occasional adventures outside of comfort zone of my single bedroom apartment. Unfortunately due to sad reality that there is no chance to continue travelling as intensively as during my stay in China, I will use this blog to provide you with my opinions on everything and nothing.
This insights and opinion articles would cover wide range of topics from social issues (hopefully the very next post not including travellers notes), politics (yeah we will enter this filthy realm), economics (nothing but mere rip off of ideas of giants), international relations (just to make my brother angry) and hopefully many others.
Of course somebody would argue that I descent to the abyss of popular crap only in vane desire to increase my own popularity and readership base, but rest assured that I do not vie to enlist any new readers besides YOU my fateful five :) Enjoy!
Don’t be worried ya ole traveller! Besides the On series I will continue to provide you with description of my occasional adventures outside of comfort zone of my single bedroom apartment. Unfortunately due to sad reality that there is no chance to continue travelling as intensively as during my stay in China, I will use this blog to provide you with my opinions on everything and nothing.
This insights and opinion articles would cover wide range of topics from social issues (hopefully the very next post not including travellers notes), politics (yeah we will enter this filthy realm), economics (nothing but mere rip off of ideas of giants), international relations (just to make my brother angry) and hopefully many others.
Of course somebody would argue that I descent to the abyss of popular crap only in vane desire to increase my own popularity and readership base, but rest assured that I do not vie to enlist any new readers besides YOU my fateful five :) Enjoy!
2/08/2010
(Almost not) skiing in Maribor
After much ado, huge snowfall and freezing weather which swept across European continent, I have decided to continue my tradition of skiing in Maribor, Slovenia. Although little off the map of usual ski loving population Mariborske Pohorje hosts FIS women slalom competition (‘Zlata Lisica’). The whole arrangement is very comfortable for me as I exploit good heartedness of my friends from Maribor, whom i met during my stay in Rotterdam, Netherlands as an exchange student.
Of course as usual with my travels complication caught up with me fairly soon. This time I hit the bump even before start of my journey. My perfect plan of 14 hours train ride (with four aimless wandering hours in Murzzuschlag incorporated) from Prague to Maribor fell apart as a house of cards. Of course, that also meant half a day less of skiing so instead of two full days I faced reality of mere 1.5 days of skiing. Anyway, thanks to train delay in Germany I would have missed my next connection in Vienna and as such I would have been forced either to spent a night in there or take a later train. Of course I choose the more comfortable way and enriched my brother's Friday evening by complaining about everything, eating all what was left in his fridge and forcing him to prepare crepes for us as a dinner of last resort.
This whole delay thing turned out to be sort of a blessing in disguise as 2 hours spent on Vienna Meidling train station (i.e. nine platforms without any station building or heated waiting room – in fact the least equipped train station I had pleasure to spent time on - including all those Chinese barnhouses) were maximum of what I could have taken in below zero weather. Vision of four hours of wandering around Murzzuschlag in case my original train would make it was pushed deeply in the dumpster of memories.
Making long story short – after my arrival to Maribor we went for afternoon skiing session. Heavy snowfall helped to provide us with the edge between lacklustre experience and memorable ski day. Shortly after dinner we gathered all who is important in Maribor and went for night of sports and hot wine. Plezka was word of the day as my hosts decided to introduce me to small wooden stool nailed to c. 60cm piece of old ski (meaning ski without any curvature) - home made skibobs we should say.
First ride was introductory (for me who was only one not familiar with this concept) with lights for night skiing on (yes we did ‘skate’ on the main slopes in between legs of skiers). Second ride was planned after some drinking session at skiing hut with the loudest music (not that we did not drink during first ride). At this hut we earned reverence of ‘Sef’ (a.k.a. the boss) to such an extent that he started giving us food for free. Of course our continuous ordering of 10 kuhano vino (hot vine) and liquer-weak colourful form of blue berry schnapps (Berentzen sort of mouth glue) greatly helped our cause.
We joined or better forced ourselves into attention of private party held at this hut. It turned out to be party of the most popular TV channel in Slovenia (POP TV). We danced shouted and drank till late late night and when all slope maintenance machines finished their work we tested our skating / sliding skills on newly woven manchester :)
Speeding downhill on wooden seat with no breaks (other than your feet and mouth), no steering mechanism (besides your feet and careful shifting of weight) and no lights (other than the stars and moon) turned out to be great fun. Of course prudent of you would argue that after litres of hot wine anything dangerous and crazy would look like great fun. Believe me, the sight of Maribor and its lights from the top of the slope was all worth it. With snow in any conceivable part of you clothing we went to bed happy and cold.
Next day few of us followed initial plan through and went for skiing as early as possible. We fully exploited fresh snow and newly built gondola (built only and exclusively because the old one literally fell down in fall last year - pun intended) as well as newly cut Pisker ski slope (one year old 40m wide ski slope with ultra quick chairlift and virtually no people). The monotonous up and down cycle was occasionally interrupted by hot tea breaks (somehow after excesses of previous night we could not muster any desire to drink hot wine). Monotonous because we literally had to hop on the chairlift as there were no people in line whenever we bothered to ski down :) We will see what will happen to this paradise when plan of prolonging Pisker ski slope to the bottom of Pohorje will be followed trough this summer. It will end its seclusion from main slopes of Pohorje (Stadion and Bellevue) by net of sophisticated connections. On the other hand lost gems of slopes between Areh and Bellevue will be even more forgotten (you can easily ski on perfectly maintained ski slopes by yourself) – which makes me giddy even thinking about it.
Anyway, after last ride down the icy trails we had our last dinner (best pizza since I came back) and I started my train journey to Prague. Besides one small feud with co-travellers about their need of keeping lights on after 2.00am journey was as boring as it can be :)
Of course as usual with my travels complication caught up with me fairly soon. This time I hit the bump even before start of my journey. My perfect plan of 14 hours train ride (with four aimless wandering hours in Murzzuschlag incorporated) from Prague to Maribor fell apart as a house of cards. Of course, that also meant half a day less of skiing so instead of two full days I faced reality of mere 1.5 days of skiing. Anyway, thanks to train delay in Germany I would have missed my next connection in Vienna and as such I would have been forced either to spent a night in there or take a later train. Of course I choose the more comfortable way and enriched my brother's Friday evening by complaining about everything, eating all what was left in his fridge and forcing him to prepare crepes for us as a dinner of last resort.
This whole delay thing turned out to be sort of a blessing in disguise as 2 hours spent on Vienna Meidling train station (i.e. nine platforms without any station building or heated waiting room – in fact the least equipped train station I had pleasure to spent time on - including all those Chinese barnhouses) were maximum of what I could have taken in below zero weather. Vision of four hours of wandering around Murzzuschlag in case my original train would make it was pushed deeply in the dumpster of memories.
Making long story short – after my arrival to Maribor we went for afternoon skiing session. Heavy snowfall helped to provide us with the edge between lacklustre experience and memorable ski day. Shortly after dinner we gathered all who is important in Maribor and went for night of sports and hot wine. Plezka was word of the day as my hosts decided to introduce me to small wooden stool nailed to c. 60cm piece of old ski (meaning ski without any curvature) - home made skibobs we should say.
First ride was introductory (for me who was only one not familiar with this concept) with lights for night skiing on (yes we did ‘skate’ on the main slopes in between legs of skiers). Second ride was planned after some drinking session at skiing hut with the loudest music (not that we did not drink during first ride). At this hut we earned reverence of ‘Sef’ (a.k.a. the boss) to such an extent that he started giving us food for free. Of course our continuous ordering of 10 kuhano vino (hot vine) and liquer-weak colourful form of blue berry schnapps (Berentzen sort of mouth glue) greatly helped our cause.
We joined or better forced ourselves into attention of private party held at this hut. It turned out to be party of the most popular TV channel in Slovenia (POP TV). We danced shouted and drank till late late night and when all slope maintenance machines finished their work we tested our skating / sliding skills on newly woven manchester :)
Speeding downhill on wooden seat with no breaks (other than your feet and mouth), no steering mechanism (besides your feet and careful shifting of weight) and no lights (other than the stars and moon) turned out to be great fun. Of course prudent of you would argue that after litres of hot wine anything dangerous and crazy would look like great fun. Believe me, the sight of Maribor and its lights from the top of the slope was all worth it. With snow in any conceivable part of you clothing we went to bed happy and cold.
Next day few of us followed initial plan through and went for skiing as early as possible. We fully exploited fresh snow and newly built gondola (built only and exclusively because the old one literally fell down in fall last year - pun intended) as well as newly cut Pisker ski slope (one year old 40m wide ski slope with ultra quick chairlift and virtually no people). The monotonous up and down cycle was occasionally interrupted by hot tea breaks (somehow after excesses of previous night we could not muster any desire to drink hot wine). Monotonous because we literally had to hop on the chairlift as there were no people in line whenever we bothered to ski down :) We will see what will happen to this paradise when plan of prolonging Pisker ski slope to the bottom of Pohorje will be followed trough this summer. It will end its seclusion from main slopes of Pohorje (Stadion and Bellevue) by net of sophisticated connections. On the other hand lost gems of slopes between Areh and Bellevue will be even more forgotten (you can easily ski on perfectly maintained ski slopes by yourself) – which makes me giddy even thinking about it.
Anyway, after last ride down the icy trails we had our last dinner (best pizza since I came back) and I started my train journey to Prague. Besides one small feud with co-travellers about their need of keeping lights on after 2.00am journey was as boring as it can be :)
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