Wugong shan / TIC

During week-long* vacation due to Chinese National Day (1 Oct) me and three other international students joined hiking club "expedition" to Wugong shan in Jiangxi province. Besides us there was another 10 hikers from various Shanghai universities or already graduated friends of the club members. Plan was to hike along the ridge of Wugong shan for four days (c. 60-65km) climbing the various peaks along the way (Wugong shan is the highest peak of the range with elevation of 1,918m above sea level). Hereinafter follows the account of this adventure with selection of pictures attached in the gallery at the sidebar (in the following days).

Day 1: After meeting at South Shanghai Railway station and successfully smuggling two out of four gas cartridges through security checks at the station (caring gas and other dangerous objects is prohibited and X-ray detectors are installed on all stations) we boarded train destined for Shenzen (probably). Our destination was Ji'an in Jiangxi province where we were supposed to be picked up by shuttle bus and driven to our "base camp". After the 10.5 hour long journey when only 12 out of 14 people had seats reservations (this is China) international students realized that shuttle bus transfer is to be negotiated upon arrival. This proved to be more difficult than expected as drivers were uncharacteristically unwilling to lower their price during negotiations. Who would do it if he is supposed to drive 14 muffs for two and a half hours at midnight to some remote place without any prospect of getting some customers on a return journey? Finally, after our failed attempts to reach out to competition we relented and pressed ourselves with our backpacks into single vehicle size of Ford Transit. During ride to final destination we experienced something what certainly Russian tanks did on their way to Berlin - breakneck pace on the breakneck roads of some backwater place. When we arrived to the destination or more precisely, driver lost his patience and pulled in the middle of the second village we got lost in, we camped and built our tents on the porch of house in the middle of this village. This is China.

Day 2: Awaken by 5.00am by barking of dogs and shouts of surprised villagers of Jinding who found 10 tents built overnight on their main square, our leaders realized that we are c. 1 hour drive from the intended and paid for destination (this is China). Luckily, villagers were very very nice to us (mainly thanks to the fact that there were three of us of fair skin which was fairly big attraction along the whole way as we were only white people we met and due to fact that we had miraculous machines making pictures of people and everything around - we promised to send these pictures to them) and fed us and provided means of transportation (truck and a motorcycle) to a start of the trail. The trail led us up on the top of Wugong shan (1,918.3m). During the ascend we passed Budhist temple where all internationals received blessings and amulets to protect our fortunes and lives. Also we drank (sipped - due to health reasons) from well of eternal life. Considering the things we saw on cups we drank from we expect our lives to be seriously cut (basically negating the effects of amulet and water). Anyway on the top we visited several ancient Taoist temples built well before most of the cathedrals I have visited in Europe. Their size corresponding to the size of early Christian churches from Roman times. Camping was provided in front of a hut operated by our guide's family/acquitances in a village just bellow the peak.

Day 3: Third day was the hardest day (walking-wise) of the trip as we were supposed to cover c. 30 km. During the day we ascended and descended over six major peaks along the ridge of Wugong shan range. Hills** were not high but the character of these hills required deep descents and long ascends as peaks were separated and standing in mohyla like formations. All the way we experienced cloudy and misty weather not allowing views. What significantly affected our experience was amount of trash left along the trail by other groups. It appears that abuse of nature is prevalent in parks and nature areas too as plastic bags, bottles and other kinds of trash are freely disposed along the paths (this is China). On the other hand it appears that young generation is environment conscious and tries to minimize its imprint on the environment. All of our group members were trying to collect trash and carry it with ourselves and some of them went to the lengths of asking other tourists to clean their trash or not to throw away it. Fayunjie (day's destination) was reached just before darkness allowing enough time for camp set up. The dinner provided was so far the best one in China with spicy local specials without excessive use of oil (so often in Shanghai) and plenty of vegetables of various kinds. The food during the trip was of very good quality and unless new symptoms will show up in the upcoming days, relatively safe. After the dinner I had the honor to experience Korean army shower (after refusing to shower for the second day in a row next to local shithole - this is China). Besides the most gayish thing I have went through up to this day, it is very useful tool to keep your pants dry while cleaning your upper body (hands down, Korean army got hygiene figured out).

Day 4: Night was cold and morning was even colder with most of us developing sore throats during this night and thus partially ruining my joy of capturing the sunrise in the Wugong shan (a really beautifull event). Fourth day was the toughest (environment-wise) of the trip. We walked for c. 17 km in thick jungle up and down the hills. I have to admit that I was slapped by tree branches more than by my father during whole childhood :) As we were unable to refill our water supplies during the day by the evening we were thirsty like drunks with terrible hangover after long long night. Anyway, when we discovered the mountain hut providing soy milk to passers-by, our flock literally destroyed their supplies (who would not when it costs 1 kuai and is melanine free :) ). Some of us also refiled our alcohol supplies (which were non-existing up to that day) envisioning humble celebration of our last night in the hills. Upon reaching our destination (Yangshimu) and building our tents we performed this while playing card games and discussing dangers of drinking water in Shanghai (e.g. you should not drink tapped water at any costs - although filtered for solid particles it still contains heavy metals - therefore our Association of international experts recomends Nongfu Spring).

Day 5: Last day of our hiking trip contained descent from Wugong shan range to the civilisation. After two-hour-knee-shattering descent of "stairs to heaven" - a concrete manmade stairs which were built for tourists acending the mountain and which we took in opposite direction - we visited hot spa (compared to places we lived in past four days, a steril clean place). During our journey to train station we were notified by our handlers (hired powers) that there are only five tickets available for us and thus we will be forced to buy these tickets at the train (we were assured by them that they will handle it and will help us with their purchase). Eventually we boarded the train with tickets for next stop and paid surcharge upon arrival to Shanghai (this is China). When road from Shanghai to Ji'an was an Experience than our return journey was THE EXPERIENCE!!! I was already warned that travel during Chinese 7-day holidays is generally not recommended. While on the way to Ji'an I can safely estimate that for each 100 seats carriage 130 tickets were sold (forcing significant number of people to stand) on the way back for each 100 seats carriage we can estimate 160 tickets sold (Sunday was the last day of holiday). Entering the train is basically possible by pushing (literally pressing your way in) people in front of you into the carriage and wrecking havoc inside. There could be seen people sleeping underneath the seats (which is btw really smart idea as there is plenty of space) and people standing or sitting on the floor for 12 hours during the night (among others also our group). On the other hand, we experienced something what I would not expect in European trains. Unknown people offered to share their seats with us (eventhough only for several hours, a gesture deeply appreciated and for which we are still very gratefull) or squeeze to make room for some of us (absolutely amazing niceness of Chinese people). This is China.***

Monday after: Unfortunately I have to report that my previous statement about smog levels similar to Prague and other European cities got shattered this Monday. Today was the smogiest smogfest I have ever seen with the visibility limited to 500 meters and smog hanging over city preventing any outdoor sport activity. Hopefully this will change quickly and pre-hike levels will be restored.

Anyway, I have to admit that this trip showed us real China - considerably different from Shanghai. Enjoy!

Note: * week-long vacation means literally 7-days holiday. Usually besides national holiday (1 Oct - Wednesday) two off-days (Thursday and Friday) are provided to employees. Furthermore, additional two off-days are switched for weekend preceding the holiday (this year it was Monday and Tuesday - 29 and 30 Sept). The same principle is applied during Spring festival.

** for clarification and future use this blog uses definition of mountain as follows: Mountains is a landmass that projects conspiciously above its surroundings and reaches altitudes of more than 2,000 meters above sea level. Anything else is just hill (sorry my Czech friends :P ).

*** for those really really slow: TIC stands for This Is China.