Eat hot or die trying!

Finally I got some internet access although with three Chinese teenagers literally looking over my shoulder. Here follows my account of past couple of days (since my little brother's arrival to great neon wonder) when we ascended mountains, seen some cities, visited green lungs of China and saw great many buffalos and rice paddies.

Shanghai
The way we spent Shanghai days is described in previous post. Here, I would like to elaborate on how we spent the nights. Literally it was only one night which we spent in Yifu theater watching Chinese opera. This time it was one of the classics (meaning one of the four most famous works of Chinese literature) - Dream of the Red Chamber. As usual with opera, story was simple (guy loves girl, guy can't settle down quite yet, guy wakes up and promises eternal love, some mix up follows, some more mix up follows and tragic graduation with even more tragic finale) or at least this was what I get from watching the performance with my lame Chinese. I bet some of my Chinese friends will say completely opposite but you know - foreigners...

This opera was again Shaoxing kind of thing and thus heavily relying on sensitivity and feelings. Particularly interesting were the parts after the break when boy saw girl planting flowers and promised her eternal love (awesome - even by my brother's standards...), tragic graduation when family of the boy negotiated different bride for the boy (comical), tragic finale of dying broken hearted girl (way too long - like half an hour long dying scene!) and aftermath (traditional Chinese style standing ovation - imagine football match in Italy). Ultimately, it was very nice experience and we decided to go for a Beijing opera to spice up our travel.

Huashan
First stop of the journey of two brothers was Huashan - one of five Tao mountains - after overnight train travel. Climbing was awesome with wonderful weather, quick pace and throngs of Chinese tourist on top. Due to time restrictions of our dense travel plan, we climbed only two out of four main peaks (West and South) in order to get to Xi'an on time for another overnight train to Chongqing. On the very first stop my brother started to wake up from his dream of quite mountains and untouched nature he expected in China. Carved steps with concrete supplement where lack of stones prevented carving, were undoubtedly pretty rough awaking by itself. The sheer amount of people climbing the mountain on usual working day during early season, was entirely different category.

Mountain is possible to climb in one day with pretty fresh tempo both up and down way. No problems should be expected if you take dancing shoes as trails are renovated into safe and wide highways. You can ascent one way (from Huashan village) and descent another (to parking lot at the begining of newly built cableway) or vice versa. Those unlucky or lazy enough can take cableway up to the two thirds of the climb.

Hot pot of all hot pots
Chongqing is allegedly capital of hot pot culture and the very place where hot pot is done so spicy that no one can stand it - literally no one - not even the locals. We spent the night in Ciqikou, which is left over old village quite far from city center, with plenty of local restaurants and traditional craft stalls. City proper looks similar to Hong Kong with modern highrises and incredible amount of construction work. It looks very livable as locals are nice, very open and willing to help (e.g. even the hawking cruise sellers are nice enough to help you buy bus ticket to your desired location when you refuse his offer - another explanation is that it is somebody else doing his work...).

In Ciqikou we had traditional hot pot, wisely divided into non-spicy and spicy parts, as we were warned multiple times that we won't stand the full attack. I have to admit that bumbling bloodlooking sauce was intimidating by itself, but we had to try it. If somebody tells you that hot dishes usually burn twice (on both ends), I tell you that Chongqing hot pot burns all the way through. I personally felt exactly how it moved through my digestion track. Besides the previously mentioned, I admit that I was crying like a whimp for at least solid 45 minutes when we were eating it - eventually I got used to it but boy, those croccodille tears... AWESOME!!!

Dazu and Yibin
Instead of original Dunhuang we visited carving place (UNESCO heritage) in Dazu, Sichuan province. Although very interesting - where else can you see huge stellas and statues carved into mountain valley? - it was definitely overpriced. Even if it is UNESCO heritage site and has 30m long sculpture of Budha entering Nirvana, nobody should charge 80rmb (9 euros) for it.

After Dazu we moved into Yibin county to visit Bamboo Sea of Southern Sichuan. Unfortunately, the weather conditions prevented us from enjoying allegedly the area with the highest oxygen rate in China (although our noses were much cleaner compared to previous stops). We left today morning when waking up at five o'clock turned out to be pointless due to rain. Pretty satisfied with three hour walk during previous evening and my improved negotiation skills which faced much practice during past few days, we concluded that the colors surrounding us were same as those from Clan of Flying Daggers movie which was shot here.

I would not write about incredible Sichuan cuisine because it would be like bringing wood into forrest. You should try by yourself. Be encouraged that it is not so hot as we were told - now we are able to stand it without crying. Reaction, that we are served mild versions of local dishes by pitiful cooks is not accepted! Next legs of our journey will take us to Leshan and Emeishan. More on this later. Spice rules and Sichuan is mother of all spices!!