What are men compared to rocks and mountains?

During past few days we travelled around Sichuan province (Leshan, Emaishan), Shaanxi (Xian) and Shanxi provinces (Pingyao). As of today, we enjoy the square one of China - Beijing. Below you can find short summary of what we went through.

Dafo (rocks)
Leshan is famous for the biggest Budha statue in the world (71 meters carved into cliff giant). Locally known as Dafo, it is guardian of fishermen of the three rivers that merge under his feet. It was carved into the cliff by monks during seventh through tenth century (Tang dynasty). Dominant of the temple complex on the opposite river bank to the city centre, it sits comfortably on his stone chair. Tourism industry offers many option to look up to this giant protector (walking the temple trail or taking the boat trip) from strong currents. With fingernails the size of family table and ears tall as one story building, it represents pretty intimidating part of UNESCO World Heritage. City by itself is navigatable by foot with long promenade along river banks. This promenades copies preserved city walls on which locals practice their dance routines and tai-chi.

Emeishan (mountains)
From Leshan we travelled to Emei, which spreads around mount Emei. This 3,099 meters tall mountain is another gamous Budhist mountain. As such it draws plenty of pilgrims or curious visitors from all over China. It offers two main approach roads which convulge in two thirds up the mountain itself. On top sits giant sculpture of Budha touching earth on his elephant (four face one with each face facing different direction). Allegedly you require two days to climg this mountain and return to 'base camp' in Baoguo village. It is mainly due to fact to allow you to watch sunrise over surrounding hills and peaks of Emeishan range.

Unfortunately, weather necessary for the above stated avoided us and we had to settle for simple satisfaction of climbing another wonderfull mountain of China. We climbed first day to 2,540 meters where we slept in local binguan (accommodation providing facility - as it does not deserve the title 'hotel'). Second day we climbed remaining 500 meters and also descended all the way to Baoguo. Of all the mountains I have visited, this has undisputable the most beautiful scenery (particularly route through Magic Peak monastery is awesome) and most pristine nature (even water can be called crystal clear - I almost relent to the temptation to drink it - almost...). The biggest attraction and tourist draw (at least of Chinese nationality) are monkey dwelling on the mountain. After my previous experience from Gibraltar, I avoided any contact and left enough space for others interested in tounting and feeding these laze mammals.

Whole climb requires c. 15-20 hours of net climbing time with plenty of stops for rest and picture taking. We did it in 16 hours but it depends on weather conditions and physical abilities of climbers. Accommodation on the top is negotiable and you can negotiate room with heater for the price of the blankets-only monastery (30kuai). For the first time we actually enjoyed the scenery as we started the climb relatively late (two o'clock in the afternoon and 5.30am before the sunrise). Also it helps that asphalt road is built up to 2,540 meters above sea level and Chinese tourists can take this option to cheat the sweat. Although, both trails are paved with stone steps, climb is demanding both on your muscles (going up literally 10,000 stairs) and bones (knees suffer as you go down the same number of stairs).

We followed the recomendation of Lonely Planet and left our luggage (no one sane would climb the mountain with 20kg backpack in two days) in Teddy Bear Hostel which is sort of backpackers base camp. As usual with LP recommendations, it promised a lot but reality was something different. Although staff tries to answer your questions, their answers are unsatisfactory at least and grossly incorrect at most. The prices are overcharged (even for a mountain resort) - 5 kuai for shower or baggage storage if you do not use accommodation in the hostel - and information about sunrise (allegedly 6.30am - real 6.00am) and time necessary for final ascent to the top (allefedly half an hour - real at least one hour) are seriously off. Of course, considering that staff speaks English pretty well, one can oversee such annoyances.

Xi'an and Pingyao (people)
After mountain we entered civilisation - precisely ancient city of Xi'an. Although not much is left of former capital, preserved an repaired walls are beautiful sight. The same goes for Pingyao which unlike Xi'an managed to preserve also inner city center and thus you can see how Han people lived during past three centuries. Xi'an is today 13million metropolis with wide boulevards and European like feel. Pingyao is on the other hand mecca for foreigner tourists eager to discover Chinese history - at least they think so. Diversity of foreigner nationalities dangerously approached the level of Prague city center during peak season. In Xi'an we enjoyed wonderfull barbecue dinner with muslim flavor (in muslim quarter of the city) with my former Chinese laoshi (teacher). She is Xi'an local and was able to show us around a little and introduced us to wonderful inner house restaurant serving plum-jam-like juice and barbecued cow stomach.

Chinese capital deserves its independent post and thus see you next time!