Into the unknown

As this is probably the last meaningful post from the Chinese soil, it is only the most appropriate to write about the most memorable trip I took in China. I don't dare to say that this was the best but it ranks high up there. On other trips I have seen more things and I have more time to soak up the atmosphere but three days in Sanqingshan (SQS) offered condensed experience and everything you can wish for for a trip in mountains. I promise that this time it will be much shorter than those novels no one wants to read I have offered previously.

We decided to explore SQS - an UNESCO listed mountain in Jiangxi province. As not mentioned (yet) in Lonely Planet, we can consider ourselves lucky as we were positively one of the first westerners to visit this national park. Of course, Chinese tours make their presence felt even here. SQS is located c. six to seven hours by train (normal speed train) but can be approached by D-train within four hours limit. We took a D-train to Quzhou in Zhenjiang province where we transferred for a bus to northern gate of the SQS National Park. Thanks to the courtesy of our bus driver, we were dropped by other bus at the original bus driver family house, where we found roof for the night. What we saved on accommodation (70 RMB / 7 EUR for two people) we overpaid on food. Although we were offered the option of a chicken to be killed just for us, we preferred veggie and fish dinner at our hotel :)

Getting up at 5.30am and on trail at 6.30am was first achievement of the day. We continued to climb through wonderful subtropical forest for good three hours. Towards the end I discovered my second (this time unrepairable) mistake. Battery in my camera was not charged. Unlike pictures from Chengdu which I completely restored upon my return to Shanghai, this time no such luck was at hand. I left my recharger at home as just before we left I checked and found battery fully charged. Probably it has something to do with incredible humidity in the area but by the time we reached our first crossing, battery was absolutely empty. Therefore there will be no pictures from the most beautiful national park I have seen in China so far.

Anyway, after three hour steep ascent from Northern gate we reached the first crossing where we took direct way to Sanqing temple. Entrance to the park is paid on top of long long flight of steps so basically you are happy to do anything they ask you (80 RMB / 8 EUR for student after 50% discount - not only one of the most beautiful but also the most expensive mountain in China). There we explored beauty of place (another short loop with beautiful views of surrounding mountains and temple area is available) and paid our homage to Taoist gods (at least one of us). After short meal (be warned that SQS is considerably expensive mountain compared to others in China - 30 RMB / 3 EUR for roasted rice and this was the cheapest dish) we continued along the Sunshine coast - a plank road on Northeastern cliff of the mountain. We took the first chance to ditch this way as this was our relax route for next day and climbed the highest peak in the area - Yujing shan (1,817 meters). All the way we enjoyed incredible views of pine forests, huge rocks and granite boulders and many many dragonflies :) On top we made quick acquittance with whole Japanese family or tour and left for some more adventure.

On our way down we took temporarily or permanently closed road which continued in our preferred direction. The road was closed probably because of the rockslide which destroyed only a hut on trail but otherwise it was perfectly safe way (although much steeper then our ascent trail). We reached West coast sea road (plank road rimming Southwestern cliff of SQS) and continued through other peaks and gates (understand - tiny cracks in between huge walls of rocks) towards fascinating shapes and compositions of boulders in eastern part of the park. There we saw boa towering over the pines, statue of goddess with head gently inclined and many others. Best thing came shortly before final descent to our targeted hotel. On a plateau around Yutian scenery spot we saw our first Buddha light - the very famous and in China very revered natural phenomenon when rainbow shapes up in the perfect circle. It looks awesome especially if you position you head in the middle :) We were left speechless for good twenty minutes and acted like little giddy children who got some super cool new toy (of course I complained constantly about my camera because chance to see Buddha's light is extremely rare). Afterward we descended to our hotel, had a quick dinner and tired went to bed - after 13 hours of constant hiking and c. 1,700 vertical meters we were pretty much spent for the day. Accommodation on the mountain is frankly of very poor quality and certainly extremely overpriced. From our inquiries we settled for the cheapest option of 260 RMB (26 EUR) for two person accommodation in dirty, full of bugs and humid room. Unfortunately our hotel (the one called 'hotel' also on map of the area - others are called villas) was the best on the mountain - at least from outside look.

Next day we woke up at 4.00am and run our tired legs towards Yutian plateau to see the sunrise. We enjoyed whole experience uninterrupted by anyone else as most of the Chinese tourists came towards the end of the whole show. Colors and sky with sparse clouds were fantastic (easily the best sunrise of all my attempts around China - with majority being bust). Cherry on top was visit of uncle eagle on our way back. He flew towards our bright colored jackets to check upon those rude intruders within 10 meters and sailed away to hunt for some breakfast. Still giddy but feeling already tired from extremities of yesterday we filled our stomachs as well and continued our journey around West coast and Sunshine coast plank roads to complete our exploration of SQS. If previous day and morning were almost tourist free, then rest of the day was from classic Chinese tourist book - people everywhere. After seeing monkey king with his treasure we decided to run for our lives and peace of our souls and finished the loop as early as possible. Totally exhausted we jumped on cable car and descended to Southern gate of National Park (my co-traveler almost killed herself from exhaustion as she was so excited to finish the trip that she literally flew down last 20 steps bruising any part of her body possible - except for head).

Upon descent we took local bus (two hour bumpy bus ride for 15 RMB / 1.5 EUR) to Yushan and after big dinner with famous chicken being cooked finally we jumped on sleeper train to Shanghai. SQS is magnificent mountain with extremely green pine forests in higher and subtropical jungle in lower elevation. Granite boulders and rocks make you wonder 'what are men compared to rocks and mountains' in line with heroes of that Austen girl. Anyway, although beautiful in nature it is already being kissed by Chinese tourism authority and build up in and around SQS National Park is in full throttle. On the other hand, it might improve competition and quality of accommodation on mountain since currently it is abysmal. My personal disagreement is with Jiangxi cuisine as I find other Chinese cuisines better and more nutritious. Be alert that this is still undiscovered corner of China for Western traveler as no Lonely Planet guide described it and therefore everything is in Chinese standards :)