South v. North

As our journey continued, this time back in eastward directions, we left behind Sichuan and Chengdu and transported ourselves to Wudang shan - birthplace of Tai chi. In true nature of yin and yang (cornerstone of of tai chi, gong fu, and the whole Tai chi philosophy), we went after visiting Wudang shan to search for balance to our torn apart souls in Song shan - birthplace of Gong fu itself (for those completely ignorant - the world famous Shaolin temple is located at the foot of Song shan). In following paragraphs you can find description of Tai chi guan (hereinafter described and called simply tai chi) and Shaolin gong fu (hereinafter described and called simply gong fu) - distinct styles of the most famous martial arts of China. This is also the first stage of our 'mad dash' to the coast and beyond. Remaining part will be described in the next post.

South
Tai chi is a martial art which, when looking on those practicing it, gives you a feeling that it is really an art. Legend has it that gong fu master (shifu) and Taoist monk residing at Wudang shan monasteries - Zhang San Feng - got inspired by observing bird attacking snake. He implemented evasive movements of the snake (which by the way saved his life) into gong fu movements, which he mastered before, and thus 72 poses (today there is something like 108 basic figures) of tai chi were created. Tai chi, considered internal martial art, is striving to use fluent movements and minimal effort in order to disarm opponents. Today it has many forms and mostly it is practiced as an exercise in order to promote blood circulation, balance, muscle and joints relaxation. As it allegedly promotes health and longevity it is very popular in western world (something of yoga sort) and with Chinese elders (practicing it in parks in the morning and / or evening). It is also very suitable for those who neglected training or sports and suddenly realized that their body is no longer what it used to be and for those who are really clumsy (like me) as it does not require any physical talent or strength (perfect!).

From Chengdu we took overnight train and arrived in the city of Wudang shan (you already know about the Chinese ´imagination´ with respect to names of the towns) - another generic tourist town with hotel capacity exceeding three times its population. Unknowing how long will the ascent will take and whether we will make it in time down from the mountain or will be forced to take shelter in some 'high altitude' option we dropped our bags by friendly peddler and took cab / minibus to entrance gate. Entrance ticket is rather expensive (90 RMB / 10 EUR) but includes free bus service up to the middle of the mountain (strictly altitudewise). Considering that final station (after one transfer) is c. 45 minutes or 25 km away from entrance gate it is worth it. New bus service is all operated by park and no minibuses are needed (as alleged by Lonely Planet). Entrance gate is c. 800 meters from the city center and thus no minibus is needed but unless you know upfront you do the same as we did.

It took us approximately two hours to get to the top and of course we took the harder way up - through three heavenly gates. Ascent is pleasant as nature is nice, steps although plentiful are not very steep and every now and then you have a temple to visit. The first one is Langmei Xian temple - THE temple - where you can pay homage to above mentioned monk a.k.a. father of tai chi. Hour beyond the temple you come to the crossing where you can choose the right way (three heavenly gates) or 'sissy' way (less steep around the mountain trail). Each gate brings you closer to heaven and offers spectacular views. Upon reaching mountain top (Golden summit) you have opportunity to visit wonderful and really spiritual temples (listening to monks chanting sutras is just priceless) and heaven city (upon yet another modest payment of 20 RMB / 2 EUR). City commissioned by some emperor is protected by wall and has bronze (originally golden plated) temple - talking about lightning rod. On the top number of tourists increases significantly as besides walking trail there is a chairlift option (very popular with Chinese). Surprisingly, on the top of this tai chi domain I had my first encounter with gong fu practitioner. Maybe I just got it entirely wrong as my six years old shifu was practicing his horse stance at the toilet (although it sounded as if he was mastering it to the highest level). Descent the other way is little boring in the shadow of tall trees.

We made it down from the mountain before sunset and in time for delicious dinner. Do not worry at all about finding accommodation - hotels are plentiful and discounts are huge. We found shelter in the third hotel for 70 RMB / 7 EUR for bedroom with shower in renovated and I would even call it luxurious institution. We had little idea that our streak of 'hotel towns' would continue for rest of our journey. Do not hesitate to walk out when they do not want to settle on your price - either they will run after you or next door neighbor will do. In this town another streak of ours interrupted - streak of 'towns we visited and observed local breed of cockroach in'. Although it was most certainly not the cleanest, since Wuhan it was the first town we had not the pleasure of crossing our path with cockroach. Next day, next stop - Luoyang - former imperial city which was destroyed and resurrected as many times as Star Trek movie franchise :) More on the city in next post as we dedicate this space to Shaolin temple which is located nearby (in Chinese sense - 100km).

North
Gong fu is a martial art we admire the most - the legends of super strong and super endurance monks are true - believe me, I have witnessed what they can do. It is understandable as Shaolin monks were fighting on the side of righteous (emperors) for centuries. Protecting coastline from pirates, suppressing barbarian invasions, and peasant rebellions they earned reputation as incredible fighters and envy combined with respect (and disrespect) of those they fought against (maybe this is the main reason why temple was burned many times - rhe latest in 1970's - courtesy of Red guards). Unlike tai chi, gong fu is considered external martial art with little regard for smooth movements and little effort. Training requires incredible amount of effort and strong will. It further emphasizes inner 'chi' in order to strengthen shifu's body. To master this art you would need to practice for years and during this time as you continue to improve and aware of your powers you become less and less interested in worldly fortunes. True masters are not succumbed to commercial presentation and selling off the Shaolin legacy but remain removed or rather disinterested by outside world (basically, famous kung fu actors are sore losers who were not able to master the true gong fu and sold themselves out to consumerism of western world :D ). Unlike tai chi, gong fu draws its philosophy from Buddhism and as such is much more aggressive (at least to untrained eye) in movement and fighting style.

Shaolin temple is easy to reach destination as it is very popular destination for Chinese and Western tourists. Easily reachable from both Luoyang and Zhengzhou, minibuses will take you there for c. 20 kuai (2 EUR) one way. Of course, hardened negotiators like me can negotiate same price for return tour, but I have met other westerners paying up to 180 kuai (18 EUR) for approximately same tour (watch out since tour prices do not include tickets for sights - pay if you want to visit policy applies). Tour means that in the price are included visits to surrounding temples. Usually tour includes visit to Songyang academy (one of the oldest higher education institutions in China) with its allegedly 4,500 years old cypress trees, Songyue pagoda (the oldest brick pagoda) and Zhongyue Miao (Tao temple). Whole trip will take one day which is fairly comfortable as you got to see most things. Unfortunately, such arrangement do not let you climb Song shan (1,512m).

Believing in ourselves and in Lonely Planet, we clawed half of the price from our tour operator at Shaolin temple and decided to climb Song shan and return to Luoyang by ourselves. Of course, little had we know that Shaolin temple is so awesome and breathtaking that we will spent there almost the whole afternoon. We observed open air training grounds where local gong fu schools come for practice, Shaolin monks skills presentation (sooo awesome :) ), pagoda forest with pagodas dedicated to the most revered monks and wushu shifu's (those who watch Kung Fu Panda movie know that this means 'martial arts master') and the temple itself. Although Taoist temple with reciting monks at Golden summit of Wudang shan was impressive, the spiritual power of the famous entrance hall, Guanyin hall (with frescoes of fighting monks), Pilu pavilion (with depressions in the floor created over centuries by practicing monks), and wonderful quite pagoda forest was much much stronger. Honestly, it took me 24 hours to settle down and calm down my excitement (meaning stopping performing 'gong fu' strokes on my co-traveler). Awesome!

Anyway, after visiting temple we attempted ascent of Shaoshi shan (Song shan's highest peak) by taking Shaoshi shan chair lift. What was our surprise when we discovered that there is not marked or paved trail to the top and that peak itself is off any trails in the area (first time I had a feeling that Lonely Planet people did not do they work properly). Main trail, which starts at the start of Shaolin cable car (different from the one we took - 60 kuai / 6 EUR return ticket), goes along it. Beyond terminus it continues for additional 15 km via hanging bridges and cliff trails. Still Shaoshi shan is significantly off even of this main trail. According to our own little research and wander into the wild there are unofficial trails leading to the top (better and shorter route is from the terminus of Shaoshi shan chair lift and beyond the paved road - trail is clearly visible). Unfortunately, we were unable to explore these trails to the full extent as our time in Shaolin area was nearing to its end (understand sunset). We run down from the mountain and jumped on the first tour bus heading to Luoyang (plenty of them and locals will gladly assist you and shout Luoyang at parking lot for you (no affect on price as they derive their commission from those 20 kuai you pay to bus driver.

South v. North
Above you can find basic description of two fighting styles. Here, I will repeat main differences and summarize my findings (sounds almost academical). Tai chi draws from Taoism while gong fu draws from Buddhism. Tai chi is spread along southern provinces while gong fu is popular in the north. Tai chi is more concerned with smoothness of movement and do not use much power or strength. Gong fu concentrates on strong and explosive strokes sequences. Although, both are based on inner chi, each uses this inner power differently. While tai chi tries to balance yin and yang and as such is considered to improve practitioner's health, gong fu uses inner chi to strengthen practitioner's body so that it can withstand and endure more grueling training. While tai chi will make you live longer, gong fu will make you invincible (to the point you can bend spears and break iron plates on your head). Looking back at what I have seen, I can say that although tai chi master could evade and use less energy during fight, gong fu master would beat him to the ground anytime (of course this is based totally on no experience with one or the other whatsoever :).

Next post will describe how we blazed through all capitals of the ancient China and found time to swim in the Yellow sea. Enjoy!