Donkey town

Another post in a short time - suprisingly there is an internet access in western China. As of today, I reside in cozy hostel in the very center of Kashgar (I mean very very center - in the middle of old town and three minutes from Id Kah mosque). Accommodation is very unchinese with open rooms, wooden beds and common space without chairs but with plenty of carpets (we are in carpet country indeed :). What follows is a short account of things I have seen and experienced during my 12 hours in Kashgar (Kashi for sinophiles).

First and the most important thing, which should be mentioned about Kashgar, is livestock market - and baby, this is really something. It is huge, it is crowded, it has everything what moves and sometimes even the things that don't anymore (sun-exhausted cows and watermelons). You can see, bargain and test-ride donkeys, sheeps and lambs, cows and bulls, goats and horses. I have also seen snakes for sale (not on the plane :). It is sooo 19th century and out of touch with Maglev and other perks of Eastern seashore.

The whole Xinjiang is different from China (although differences are less strict in Urumqi thanks to the invasion of Hans encouraged by 'develop the west' program - a.k.a. peacefull assimilation) and the contrasts are the sharpest in Kashgar where Uighurs are still majority and Tajiks and Kyrgyzs account for the rest. As such it is also stuck in 19th century. Although ratio of cabs versus donkey-pulled carts is now in favour of cabs, still donkeys are one of the most important means of transportation.

Xinjiang is also land of fruits, especially watermelons. These you can find here in any shape, size, color or smell. Problem is that of all fruits, veggies and whatever we call plant, I hate watermelons the most - can't stand it. Besides fruits, region's other main product is mutton (again any shape, size, smell etc.). Right now, after shashlik / kebab dinner, I feel over-muttoned and I can swear that if I see any sheep, lamb or ram, mutton will erupt from any opening on my body. Here is another unsolvable problem I face - I will pass through mutton country for next six days...

Another distinction of Xinjiang from the rest of China is the early age local children are maturing. Today I saw seven to nine years old driving a scooter. It is frequent sight to see 10-15 years old boys selling and helping their fathers with carts, stalls and business in general. Completely different to Shanghai where high-schoolers are awaited by their grandparents in front of the school gate to be accompanied back home.

Besides above mentioned, I have observed and visited Abkah Hoja tomb, Id Kah mosque, old town, and one-eyebrow women which are probably considered as good and fashionable here (Breznev was sorry loser). Abkah Hoja was local chieftain, who established large tomb for his family and whose one great granddaughter was emperor´s concubine - don't ask me whether this is important or significant - according to the size of the tomb and how she is celebrated everywhere, it is.

Id Kah mosque is one of the biggest mosques in China and surely the biggest in Uighur style. It is also surprisingly open to visitor who can step also in side the praying premisses (carpets!) of course during no-praying time. Uighur style means open space with wooden pillars supporting the roof. This style is also used for living quarters in old town and as such I partially understand intention of Chinese government to level it and rebuild it according to safety standards. It is scary sight just walking by - some houses are falling apart in front of your eyes. Of course if it could stand for 500 years why do you feel the need to change it? Luckily changes in Xinjiang come very slow and old habits are rooted deeply (long live the donkey carts!).

As most of the city is built from mud or mud bricks, there is enormous amount of dust everywhere, which results in children which look beyond-dirty and possitively medieval (more on medieval things in China sometimes in the future - believe me the list is long :) Althoug I have to admit that there is certain charm in dusty kids running wild around streets of Kashgar old town, smiling and waving to any foreigner. With this I conclude my remarks on Kashgar and move on to some other destinations. Live long and prospere!