Wrong, False, and Unlucky

This is probably as close as I will ever get to being a wartime correspondent, therefore I will abuse this opportunity in every possible way. Through my network of contacts and support I will try to give you the latest development in Xinjiang province, where riots between native Uighurs and incoming Hans erupted few days ago. Sunday’s night madness in Urumqi and Monday´s follow-up in Kashgar represent the most serious challenge of order and authority since 1989. Luckily for me, I am in the right place at right time as I plough through sands of Taklamakan looping Chinese part of Silk road. If interested in what´s going on, please read on.

Wrong (When peaceful ain’t so peaceful)

Oh boy, how wrong I was! Only in my previous post I declared my admiration for coexistence of various minorities with Han population (daring to use the term “peaceful assimilation”) in this melting pot of cultures at the crossing of civilizations. I guess it has just boiled over. Whenever you think you understand something (me -> China) think again as life will prove you're wrong (me -> China).

Riots erupted on Sunday in the center of Urumqi (provincial capital) at Circa 8:00 pm. Flame bombs were thown and innocent shopkeepers attacked. According to the latest estimate, death toll is 156. As army and police moved in, attacks were subdued. Internet was switched off in the whole Xinjiang to prevent spreading of information and increasing tension. Soldiers from Tibetan outposts were moved in to keep an eye on major cities. First hand observation: It is really impressive to watch passing convoys of army trucks on their way to Kashgar. Only if it didn’t bring up painful comparisons to what my country had had to go through in 1968.

But unlike in our case, Xinjiang occupation (and you cannot call it otherwise as police check points are established every 50 to 80 km on all major roads and the ratio of police/soldiers to donkeys is now greatly in favor of the former) is not the result of peaceful move towards greater democracy, but rather the result of violent uprising of frustrated people, which became minority in their own “autonomous” province within 20 years of “Develop the West” policy. Although one can understand the dissatisfaction, violence must be condemned by all. Especially violence on innocent people who just try to escape poverty back at their home provinces.

False (assumption is mother of all f*ck-ups!)

I have to admit, my false assumption based on history (1,500 years of trading with anything and anyone) led me to the incorrect conclusion that Xinjiang is similar to Singapore – center of tolerance. I sincerely thought that Xinjiang is living its own life in its own time (both literally – as it uses Xinjiang time, which is two hours behind official Beijing time - and poetically – as donkey cars dominate the roads and traditional dress dominates the streets). I should have been warned by omni-present statue which dominates every city in China and firmly assures everybody in what country (s)he currently is – the statue of great helmsman.

Unlucky

There is no better word to describe my rising frustration as it seems to me I forerun the “trouble”. I left Urumqi circa 20 hours before riots in order to visit Kashgar. Little I knew that the best hope for some action was to stay back in Urumqi together with my friend who planned his visits to “-stan countries” (according to information I got from hostel staff he left unharmed on Monday as he planned). Of course I noticed police maneuvers in Kashgar on Monday morning (while having my photo session with the old town) but I left the city before noon on a bus to Karghilik (Yecheng) in accordance with my own travel plan. Little I knew that there will be some action on its own in Kashi.

It seems to me the action is catching up with me (by the time it finally will, it would be probably only in form of extra nuisance to travellers that would find their choices of accommodation even more limited), therefore stay tuned as I await my bus departure in Hotan. For more stuff concerning Silk road and mutton dishes you have to wait a bit longer.

P.S.: These check points are, as the most of the things, only pro-forma. ID check always ends when policemen discover somebody who “forgot” his ID. Why bother and cause any trouble?! Leave it to someone else.