Cruise control

After two days of walking around hot and burning Shanghai we started our "journey to the west". From Shanghai we took D-train (imagine Spanish AVE-class trains) to Wuhan, covering first 1,000 km in mere five hours. The intention was to explore Hubei province and Yangtze river region. Below you can find the account of what we went through while cruising in the "hell belt" of China. Area between Shanghai and Chengdu is during summer turned into one huge sauna (or hell) as Yangtze provides humidity and sun provides heat. Temperatures stay between 35-40 degrees and humidity levels well into 90's. You sweat like crazy and six liters of water just barely provide for what you have lost.

Shopping around
We arrived in Wuhan around midnight, found accommodation in one of two local International Hostelling member hostel (unfortunately we chose the wrong one, which was basically a regular hotel possing as hostel chain member - understand no dorms or rooms below 100 RMB / 10 euro, no internet access but breakfast provided) - precisely one located in the Hankou city center. Night ride through the city offered us the first glimpse of this sprawling metropolis (Wuhan, as of today, is a wild combination of three cities - Hankou, Wuchang and Hanyang) with population well over four millions.

A night walk on the main pedestrian street enriched us by witnessing the greatest concentration of homeless people we have both seen so far. The street (Janghan road) was covered with sleeping men and occasional woman laying on the benches, ground and anything slightly suitable. Maybe this was vivid sign of ongoing global economic crisis (and especially car industry crisis since Citroen factory is/was located nearby) or maybe local homeless prefer to sleep in the shaddows of the super-brands (Rolex and co.). Anyway it was an interesting experience, not helping Wuhan in my "My favorite Chinese city" competition.

In the morning we started our quest for the cheapest cruise along Yangtze all the while exploring one of three furnaces of China (Wuhan, Chongqing and Nanjing are considered the hottest and the most humid cities of the hell belt - Shanghai anyone?!). City center and riverfront are littered with colonial style buildings from Wuhan open-port past. After visiting several agencies we concluded that the betst option would be to transfer ourselves to Yichang (port-of-call for all cruise ships). If Wuhan is rich on old style architecture, Yichang is richer on modern and not-so-modern accommodation institutions. Main street (Dongshan road) and surrounding area offers all sorts of cheap and not-so-cheap rooms. Don't hesitate to shop around and refuse those who are unwilling to discount their listed price by at least 40%. There always be somebody else willing to do so.

In the morning we finally decided to take Chinese passenger ship with first class double cabin for 880 RMB (88 euro) per person (second class four bed cabin is for 640 RMB / 64 euro and third class 6 bed cabin is for 360 RMB / 36 euro - no food included). Chinese passenger cruise was second alternative choice as we refused to pay additional 350 RMB (35 euro) per person in addition to original and already paid for price of 1,325 RMB (132.5 euro) just because we are white foreigners (surcharge was not mentioned in the price list but is according to agency a regulatory obligation). Eventually surcharge turned out to be a hidden blessing as it knocked off cruise ships from the top of our "value for money" chart and instead of travelling with hundreds of Norwegian and American retirees we had pleasure to spent our days with chinese families and kids. We enjoyed celebrity status possing for pictures and answering all sorts of questions from our young inquisitors.

San Xia (Yichang to Chongqing)
San Xia or Three Gorges consist of Xiling, Wu and Qutang gorge (upstream order). Our cruise started with one hour bus ride (so long for the port of call) along Xiling gorge below San Xia Da Ba (Three Gorges Dam) where we borded our ship (JinTao). As I understand, cruise ships take additional one day to sail this area and ascend locks of the dam. We started our journey at 10.30pm and cruised through Xiling at night (allegedly this is the least interesting gorge). Early morning we enjoyed on-deck vistas of Wu gorge, jumped on small ship and explored Xiao San Xia (Three Small Gorges). Little sisters of more famous triplet are more photogenic and quiter as no transport ships are allowed to sail inwards. Side cruise included ride on bamboo ship with singing shipmen (another version of Chinese Venice). In the afternoon we continued towards Baidicheng (White king city) with plenty of three kingdoms history. It was here where king of Shu passed his mantle to his son. Evening sail through Qutang gorge and yet another fruitless wait for colorfull sunset and we parted our ways with Three Gorges. For those lacking imagination and fantasy: Gorges are really gorgeous canyon's with width of 100 to 300 meters. Yangtze cut into limestone during centuries, exposing steep riverbanks to views of passengers and sailors. Streem is swift as strong Yangtze is coralled into narrow coridors of Qutang, Wu and Xiling gorge (downstream order).

Next day we had one more stop in City of Ghosts (Fengdu) on otherwise unspectacular journey through shipyards and factory land up to Chongqing. Fengdu is historical city with huge temple complex (Budhist one) and palaces dedicated to various ghosts and spirits. Instead of visiting palace complex we explored newly built theme park (result of no English directions and ignorance of our guide). Fengdu was also the place where we caught up with geriatric cruise and place was choked up with foreigners.

Chongqing
Disembarkation at 7.00am offered us opportunity to epxlore for half a day this beautiful city (one of my favorite in China), visit some temples and shop for clothes in its multiple markets before moving on to Chengdu. Chongqing has plenty of trees (similar to any city in the west), top brand shops and even a pedestrian district. Delicious food and other perks are described in previous post.

Note that cruises are offered both downstream and upstream. Timing of visits and stops are therefore different. As we took upstream cruise, timing is described as such. Cruise ships offer one more day on the deck and price includes meals. Downstream cruise description is offered in Lonely Planet. First hand account of our exploration of Sichuan capital will follow soon. See you later, aligater!