After two days of walking around hot and burning Shanghai we started our "journey to the west". From Shanghai we took D-train (imagine Spanish AVE-class trains) to Wuhan, covering first 1,000 km in mere five hours. The intention was to explore Hubei province and Yangtze river region. Below you can find the account of what we went through while cruising in the "hell belt" of China. Area between Shanghai and Chengdu is during summer turned into one huge sauna (or hell) as Yangtze provides humidity and sun provides heat. Temperatures stay between 35-40 degrees and humidity levels well into 90's. You sweat like crazy and six liters of water just barely provide for what you have lost.
Shopping around
We arrived in Wuhan around midnight, found accommodation in one of two local International Hostelling member hostel (unfortunately we chose the wrong one, which was basically a regular hotel possing as hostel chain member - understand no dorms or rooms below 100 RMB / 10 euro, no internet access but breakfast provided) - precisely one located in the Hankou city center. Night ride through the city offered us the first glimpse of this sprawling metropolis (Wuhan, as of today, is a wild combination of three cities - Hankou, Wuchang and Hanyang) with population well over four millions.
A night walk on the main pedestrian street enriched us by witnessing the greatest concentration of homeless people we have both seen so far. The street (Janghan road) was covered with sleeping men and occasional woman laying on the benches, ground and anything slightly suitable. Maybe this was vivid sign of ongoing global economic crisis (and especially car industry crisis since Citroen factory is/was located nearby) or maybe local homeless prefer to sleep in the shaddows of the super-brands (Rolex and co.). Anyway it was an interesting experience, not helping Wuhan in my "My favorite Chinese city" competition.
In the morning we started our quest for the cheapest cruise along Yangtze all the while exploring one of three furnaces of China (Wuhan, Chongqing and Nanjing are considered the hottest and the most humid cities of the hell belt - Shanghai anyone?!). City center and riverfront are littered with colonial style buildings from Wuhan open-port past. After visiting several agencies we concluded that the betst option would be to transfer ourselves to Yichang (port-of-call for all cruise ships). If Wuhan is rich on old style architecture, Yichang is richer on modern and not-so-modern accommodation institutions. Main street (Dongshan road) and surrounding area offers all sorts of cheap and not-so-cheap rooms. Don't hesitate to shop around and refuse those who are unwilling to discount their listed price by at least 40%. There always be somebody else willing to do so.
In the morning we finally decided to take Chinese passenger ship with first class double cabin for 880 RMB (88 euro) per person (second class four bed cabin is for 640 RMB / 64 euro and third class 6 bed cabin is for 360 RMB / 36 euro - no food included). Chinese passenger cruise was second alternative choice as we refused to pay additional 350 RMB (35 euro) per person in addition to original and already paid for price of 1,325 RMB (132.5 euro) just because we are white foreigners (surcharge was not mentioned in the price list but is according to agency a regulatory obligation). Eventually surcharge turned out to be a hidden blessing as it knocked off cruise ships from the top of our "value for money" chart and instead of travelling with hundreds of Norwegian and American retirees we had pleasure to spent our days with chinese families and kids. We enjoyed celebrity status possing for pictures and answering all sorts of questions from our young inquisitors.
San Xia (Yichang to Chongqing)
San Xia or Three Gorges consist of Xiling, Wu and Qutang gorge (upstream order). Our cruise started with one hour bus ride (so long for the port of call) along Xiling gorge below San Xia Da Ba (Three Gorges Dam) where we borded our ship (JinTao). As I understand, cruise ships take additional one day to sail this area and ascend locks of the dam. We started our journey at 10.30pm and cruised through Xiling at night (allegedly this is the least interesting gorge). Early morning we enjoyed on-deck vistas of Wu gorge, jumped on small ship and explored Xiao San Xia (Three Small Gorges). Little sisters of more famous triplet are more photogenic and quiter as no transport ships are allowed to sail inwards. Side cruise included ride on bamboo ship with singing shipmen (another version of Chinese Venice). In the afternoon we continued towards Baidicheng (White king city) with plenty of three kingdoms history. It was here where king of Shu passed his mantle to his son. Evening sail through Qutang gorge and yet another fruitless wait for colorfull sunset and we parted our ways with Three Gorges. For those lacking imagination and fantasy: Gorges are really gorgeous canyon's with width of 100 to 300 meters. Yangtze cut into limestone during centuries, exposing steep riverbanks to views of passengers and sailors. Streem is swift as strong Yangtze is coralled into narrow coridors of Qutang, Wu and Xiling gorge (downstream order).
Next day we had one more stop in City of Ghosts (Fengdu) on otherwise unspectacular journey through shipyards and factory land up to Chongqing. Fengdu is historical city with huge temple complex (Budhist one) and palaces dedicated to various ghosts and spirits. Instead of visiting palace complex we explored newly built theme park (result of no English directions and ignorance of our guide). Fengdu was also the place where we caught up with geriatric cruise and place was choked up with foreigners.
Chongqing
Disembarkation at 7.00am offered us opportunity to epxlore for half a day this beautiful city (one of my favorite in China), visit some temples and shop for clothes in its multiple markets before moving on to Chengdu. Chongqing has plenty of trees (similar to any city in the west), top brand shops and even a pedestrian district. Delicious food and other perks are described in previous post.
Note that cruises are offered both downstream and upstream. Timing of visits and stops are therefore different. As we took upstream cruise, timing is described as such. Cruise ships offer one more day on the deck and price includes meals. Downstream cruise description is offered in Lonely Planet. First hand account of our exploration of Sichuan capital will follow soon. See you later, aligater!
7/29/2009
7/23/2009
Lawrencing through Uighuria
Referencing, as it seems, the only book I can't finish (300 pages after two years and counting) I bring you my account of the days spent in Taklamakan. My desert adventures preceded last two posts about Urumqi but as we are in a country where the day after tomorrow means the day before yesterday, who cares. If interested, you can find below brief notes on how I travelled from Kashgar (Kashi) to Charklik (Rouqiang) and beyond. Although Chinese renamed all the cities to their liking and these names are currently used in all official and most of unofficial transactions, for sentimental reasons I state Uighur names first. Read on!
Monday
As mentioned before, I have spent night in Kashgar's new (recently established, not newly furnished, extremely convenient) city center hostel. Early wake up call yielded lone photosession with old town, interrupted occassionaly by children on their way to school (surprisingly kids get up earlier than the majority of adult population). Advantage of wee hours wake up is the fact that there is no one to charge you for entrance of residential quarter. The old town is literally vanishing in front of your eyes as buildings are being disassambled either to be reassembled in accordance with safety standards or disappear for ever.
On my return to hostel I witnessed early deployment of police following the uproar in Urumqi. Unaware of true reasons and afraid that justice finally caught up with me, I fled shortly before noon hoping on the first bus for Karghilik (Yecheng). After 5.5 hours long bus ride (rough) which was originally scheduled to be completed in four, I taxied myself to the local mosque (open and free for everyone), walked bazaar spread around it, and left the town with suspicion that I am in forgotten part of China and worse, there is nothing else besides sand to see here.
Bus ride (rougher) to Hotan (Hietan) was again longer than scheduled (eight instead of five hours) underlining the suspicion that time here was more like a general guideline than strictly enforced rule. Of course, one can argue that sand storm we encountered on our way (courtesy of Taklamakan) had something to do with it. As an unexperienced desert rat, I was in awe when sand dust covered everyone and everything in the firmly closed bus. I guess Sir Lawrence was right. We arrived to Hotan shortly after one o'clock. With little complications (accommodation options were narrowed to "preferred" institutions) I put myself to bed in true Chinese station hotel.
Tuesday
Besides being developed, Hotan is something closest to what you can call a town on the southern rim of Taklamakan. Modern as it is and having all facilities western travellers require, it most certainly lacks the charms of Kashgar. Museum (tiny but free), "boulevards" (wide but soulless), Mao's statue (with local leader but still dominating everything), bazaar (big but same as anywhere) and supply of hotel rooms (plentifull but limired) make Hotan true capital of the Southern Xinjiang. While walking the streets (basically whole day, covering all corners of the town), visiting sights and checking time it will take army convoys to circuit streets, I shopped for accommodation for the upcoming night. I am happy to report that there are plenty of new, older and old hotels available, but restriction in place for travellers safety make me unwelcomed guest in most of them. Eventually, I ended up in the same institution as night before (the cheapest one with convenient location next to the bus station) although it is certain that new Military Sub-hotel (10kuai more expensive but located in the city center with wonderfull views of Mao and People's square) would be better alternative.
Wednesday
Taking morning sleeper bus (comfy) to Cherchen (Qiemo) turned out to be a whole day affair. Country changed for better as more water and sophistricated irrigation system put up bigger fight to neverending sand dunes and vicious sand devils (little sand tornadoes rising in the middle of nowhere on a flat lands). Camels mingled with goats and sheep herds more frequently and cows and their cowboys on motorbikes made occasional appereance. My life was enriched by the first encounter with sleeper bus a'la China. It is certainly comfortable (for those of Chinese size) way of travel on long distances during hot days.
Thursday
In Qiemo I quickly concluded that there is not much to see and after yet another night in a run down station hotel I hoped on first morning bus (less comfy) to continue my journey. The towns beyond Hotan are small even for European standards, making them miniscule by Chinese standards. They consist of few streets and main roads making one to question official population figures (what is missing here is most certainly found in megacities on the east coast).
Charklik (Rouqiang) turned out to be the same since in three hours spent there I have walked all over it and someplaces three times. Tired of sand flavored dishes and with boredom creeping into my mind, I decided to abandon my original plan to continue to Golmuf and rather return to Urumqi. One more sunset, night and sunrise in prenatal position of Chinese sleeper bus bunk and windfarms of "green city" unfolded in front of us.
After two days spent in Urumqi, I returned to Shanghai in time to pick up my friend and get back on road again. We will travel around Hubei (middle of the middle), Yangzi river (Chang Jiang) and three gorges area, Chengdu and back. If interested come back for more.
Monday
As mentioned before, I have spent night in Kashgar's new (recently established, not newly furnished, extremely convenient) city center hostel. Early wake up call yielded lone photosession with old town, interrupted occassionaly by children on their way to school (surprisingly kids get up earlier than the majority of adult population). Advantage of wee hours wake up is the fact that there is no one to charge you for entrance of residential quarter. The old town is literally vanishing in front of your eyes as buildings are being disassambled either to be reassembled in accordance with safety standards or disappear for ever.
On my return to hostel I witnessed early deployment of police following the uproar in Urumqi. Unaware of true reasons and afraid that justice finally caught up with me, I fled shortly before noon hoping on the first bus for Karghilik (Yecheng). After 5.5 hours long bus ride (rough) which was originally scheduled to be completed in four, I taxied myself to the local mosque (open and free for everyone), walked bazaar spread around it, and left the town with suspicion that I am in forgotten part of China and worse, there is nothing else besides sand to see here.
Bus ride (rougher) to Hotan (Hietan) was again longer than scheduled (eight instead of five hours) underlining the suspicion that time here was more like a general guideline than strictly enforced rule. Of course, one can argue that sand storm we encountered on our way (courtesy of Taklamakan) had something to do with it. As an unexperienced desert rat, I was in awe when sand dust covered everyone and everything in the firmly closed bus. I guess Sir Lawrence was right. We arrived to Hotan shortly after one o'clock. With little complications (accommodation options were narrowed to "preferred" institutions) I put myself to bed in true Chinese station hotel.
Tuesday
Besides being developed, Hotan is something closest to what you can call a town on the southern rim of Taklamakan. Modern as it is and having all facilities western travellers require, it most certainly lacks the charms of Kashgar. Museum (tiny but free), "boulevards" (wide but soulless), Mao's statue (with local leader but still dominating everything), bazaar (big but same as anywhere) and supply of hotel rooms (plentifull but limired) make Hotan true capital of the Southern Xinjiang. While walking the streets (basically whole day, covering all corners of the town), visiting sights and checking time it will take army convoys to circuit streets, I shopped for accommodation for the upcoming night. I am happy to report that there are plenty of new, older and old hotels available, but restriction in place for travellers safety make me unwelcomed guest in most of them. Eventually, I ended up in the same institution as night before (the cheapest one with convenient location next to the bus station) although it is certain that new Military Sub-hotel (10kuai more expensive but located in the city center with wonderfull views of Mao and People's square) would be better alternative.
Wednesday
Taking morning sleeper bus (comfy) to Cherchen (Qiemo) turned out to be a whole day affair. Country changed for better as more water and sophistricated irrigation system put up bigger fight to neverending sand dunes and vicious sand devils (little sand tornadoes rising in the middle of nowhere on a flat lands). Camels mingled with goats and sheep herds more frequently and cows and their cowboys on motorbikes made occasional appereance. My life was enriched by the first encounter with sleeper bus a'la China. It is certainly comfortable (for those of Chinese size) way of travel on long distances during hot days.
Thursday
In Qiemo I quickly concluded that there is not much to see and after yet another night in a run down station hotel I hoped on first morning bus (less comfy) to continue my journey. The towns beyond Hotan are small even for European standards, making them miniscule by Chinese standards. They consist of few streets and main roads making one to question official population figures (what is missing here is most certainly found in megacities on the east coast).
Charklik (Rouqiang) turned out to be the same since in three hours spent there I have walked all over it and someplaces three times. Tired of sand flavored dishes and with boredom creeping into my mind, I decided to abandon my original plan to continue to Golmuf and rather return to Urumqi. One more sunset, night and sunrise in prenatal position of Chinese sleeper bus bunk and windfarms of "green city" unfolded in front of us.
After two days spent in Urumqi, I returned to Shanghai in time to pick up my friend and get back on road again. We will travel around Hubei (middle of the middle), Yangzi river (Chang Jiang) and three gorges area, Chengdu and back. If interested come back for more.
7/17/2009
Green City
After three days of eating the sand and reaching the easternmost corners of Taklamakan, I decided to postpone my eastbound trip and instead of Golmud I returned to Urumqi. Partially it was affected by my impatience and dislike of bus travel (Golmud is allegedly several 'bus-drive' days and transfers away from Rouqiang) and partially glum description of Golmud in all travel books available. Furthermore, it would be highly unlikely that I would make it to Shanghai in time to pick up my friend with whom I was supposed to travel afterwards. Of course the main reason was my relatively low adrenaline level and high desire to be at the right time at righter place (bad English intended). Below you will find my observations about Urumqi after being swamped with army personnel. Description of my travel through desert will follow in the next post.
Green
First things first. Whatever you think and it might be a lot, consider Urumqi a safe city. Four days after July 5 protests there were something like half milion soldiers patrolling the streets or at least it looked like that. In a city center where main riots happened and in Uighur part of the town, each corner saw its own squad of soldiers taking watch or resting. Other squads of policemen or soldiers walked the main roads from corner to corner. Back ups and reserves rested idle in shades of subways, bridges, overpasses and in front of buildings casting the biggest shades. Outter suburbs were patrolled by passing army trucks keeping to their predetermined loops. Soldiers walked and guarded all major parks, and crossings. Basically anyone trying to lift a stone would be uprehended within seconds. My personal guesses as of today are: (1) zero crime rate (including pickpockets) and 1 to 5 soldier to citizen ratio for greater Urumqi (Urumqi has population of two millions...). Everything made me feel totally safe and my only worry was that I would get caught while trying to take pictures of soldiers (prohibited) and would have to suffer consequences (expatriated).
Of course most of the army was deployed in haste and closer look revealed deficiences but everyone has to admit successful gualling of public disorder. Hastiness caused some soldiers carrying sticks instead of batons (mostly in suburbs and Chinese parts of town). Most of the soldiers were 18 years old and looked in their oversized equipment more scarred than those they were supposed to scare and their officers had full hands of keeping their morale high (I guess that was the reason for regular exercise, wartime shouts and singing - besides announcing their presence to potential protesters). One had to admire particularly those in full body armor in 30-35 degree heat and constant scorching sunshine. Of the all units I have seen, the most respect generated Uighur policemen with shotguns and machine guns in and around Uighur dominated streets. Looking menacingly and ready to use their equipment against slightest trace of disturbance, they towered above everyone in sight. I guess that was caused by their regular meat diet as compared to rice diet of their sleepy army colleagues deployed from other provinces.
City
After two days of walking around city I discovered certain hidden and not-so-hidden gems worth visiting. Besides those described in previous post about Urumqi I visited Hongshan park and wandered all over the city proper. Hongshan park is large hilly oasis with many adrenaline and not-so-adrenaline entertainment options for youngs and elders alike. It also offers multiple cultural sights (Budha temple, Dragon spring pavillion, tower and pagodas) and incomparable views of the city skyline and with mighty snowy Tian shan as a backdrop.
Walking through the streets you can try to discover 10 sights Urumqi municipality considers important or of high inner or outter value. Among those discovered by me is oversized bronze statue of Lenin in the lobby of Bank of China at Jiefang Road. Kept in shades of this historical building it is protected by brave security staff from flashlights of picture hungry capitalists. Sculpture was discovered by local branch manager at scrap yards of Tacheng and restored to its former glory from funds of comrades welcoming institution it currently resides in.
Other discoveries included great minority building which is supposed to house minority traders and shops. Dome built and funded from money provided courtessy of government and momentarily shut down by it in order to prevent gatherings of those minorities (same fate met local grand bazars and night market). Furthermore, I realized that my original observation about ideal melting pot of cultures was at least partially correct as there is no animosity between older generations of Hans and Uighurs. Any Uighur men or youngling would stand up and vacate his bus seat for Han older or lady - a sight almost unheard of in Shanghai, the place where fights for seats in bus or subway are accross weight and age categories and resemble more UFC bouts.
Although only wildly guessing, I can conclude that protests demanding justice (as reported by media) turned ugly and galvanized into full fledged riots upon joining of hot-headed young guns and mishandling of situation by unprepared police. Thirst for protesting is shared by all young people across the world and unless chanelled to some better purpose it results in bloodbath (1, 2, 3) and very rarely in something good (1, 2). The exeption to this is current generation of soulless brainwashed zombies who can be found lingering in university campuses east of west and feeding on everything served by big brother media.
All above said, the display of power was impressive and it efficiently subdued any attempts for further disturbance of peace within two or three days (there were some reports of Han retaliation and Uighurs lively demanding less harsh treatment and information on missing). We can say (borrowing from old Slovak proverb) that any protester would be beaten to ground by cap-wielding policemen as quantity once again trashed quality :). Unfortunately, the numbers made whole situation boring and I left Urumqi with feeling that I was at the right place but in a wrong time.
To Spice up my life and make the end of my journey more adventurous I took hard seat two days train ride from Urumqi to Shanghai. And believe me, it was all worth it (all 389 RMB) as it was right there among my best journeys by train yet - fun and gamble thing - playing cards and talking with my Chinese compatriots, sleeping on tables, eating all possible snacks and rubish food and watching children pee in cans, on floor of the train, and virtually any surface imaginable except for hole in the floor of the toilet. Awesome!
Green
First things first. Whatever you think and it might be a lot, consider Urumqi a safe city. Four days after July 5 protests there were something like half milion soldiers patrolling the streets or at least it looked like that. In a city center where main riots happened and in Uighur part of the town, each corner saw its own squad of soldiers taking watch or resting. Other squads of policemen or soldiers walked the main roads from corner to corner. Back ups and reserves rested idle in shades of subways, bridges, overpasses and in front of buildings casting the biggest shades. Outter suburbs were patrolled by passing army trucks keeping to their predetermined loops. Soldiers walked and guarded all major parks, and crossings. Basically anyone trying to lift a stone would be uprehended within seconds. My personal guesses as of today are: (1) zero crime rate (including pickpockets) and 1 to 5 soldier to citizen ratio for greater Urumqi (Urumqi has population of two millions...). Everything made me feel totally safe and my only worry was that I would get caught while trying to take pictures of soldiers (prohibited) and would have to suffer consequences (expatriated).
Of course most of the army was deployed in haste and closer look revealed deficiences but everyone has to admit successful gualling of public disorder. Hastiness caused some soldiers carrying sticks instead of batons (mostly in suburbs and Chinese parts of town). Most of the soldiers were 18 years old and looked in their oversized equipment more scarred than those they were supposed to scare and their officers had full hands of keeping their morale high (I guess that was the reason for regular exercise, wartime shouts and singing - besides announcing their presence to potential protesters). One had to admire particularly those in full body armor in 30-35 degree heat and constant scorching sunshine. Of the all units I have seen, the most respect generated Uighur policemen with shotguns and machine guns in and around Uighur dominated streets. Looking menacingly and ready to use their equipment against slightest trace of disturbance, they towered above everyone in sight. I guess that was caused by their regular meat diet as compared to rice diet of their sleepy army colleagues deployed from other provinces.
City
After two days of walking around city I discovered certain hidden and not-so-hidden gems worth visiting. Besides those described in previous post about Urumqi I visited Hongshan park and wandered all over the city proper. Hongshan park is large hilly oasis with many adrenaline and not-so-adrenaline entertainment options for youngs and elders alike. It also offers multiple cultural sights (Budha temple, Dragon spring pavillion, tower and pagodas) and incomparable views of the city skyline and with mighty snowy Tian shan as a backdrop.
Walking through the streets you can try to discover 10 sights Urumqi municipality considers important or of high inner or outter value. Among those discovered by me is oversized bronze statue of Lenin in the lobby of Bank of China at Jiefang Road. Kept in shades of this historical building it is protected by brave security staff from flashlights of picture hungry capitalists. Sculpture was discovered by local branch manager at scrap yards of Tacheng and restored to its former glory from funds of comrades welcoming institution it currently resides in.
Other discoveries included great minority building which is supposed to house minority traders and shops. Dome built and funded from money provided courtessy of government and momentarily shut down by it in order to prevent gatherings of those minorities (same fate met local grand bazars and night market). Furthermore, I realized that my original observation about ideal melting pot of cultures was at least partially correct as there is no animosity between older generations of Hans and Uighurs. Any Uighur men or youngling would stand up and vacate his bus seat for Han older or lady - a sight almost unheard of in Shanghai, the place where fights for seats in bus or subway are accross weight and age categories and resemble more UFC bouts.
Although only wildly guessing, I can conclude that protests demanding justice (as reported by media) turned ugly and galvanized into full fledged riots upon joining of hot-headed young guns and mishandling of situation by unprepared police. Thirst for protesting is shared by all young people across the world and unless chanelled to some better purpose it results in bloodbath (1, 2, 3) and very rarely in something good (1, 2). The exeption to this is current generation of soulless brainwashed zombies who can be found lingering in university campuses east of west and feeding on everything served by big brother media.
All above said, the display of power was impressive and it efficiently subdued any attempts for further disturbance of peace within two or three days (there were some reports of Han retaliation and Uighurs lively demanding less harsh treatment and information on missing). We can say (borrowing from old Slovak proverb) that any protester would be beaten to ground by cap-wielding policemen as quantity once again trashed quality :). Unfortunately, the numbers made whole situation boring and I left Urumqi with feeling that I was at the right place but in a wrong time.
To Spice up my life and make the end of my journey more adventurous I took hard seat two days train ride from Urumqi to Shanghai. And believe me, it was all worth it (all 389 RMB) as it was right there among my best journeys by train yet - fun and gamble thing - playing cards and talking with my Chinese compatriots, sleeping on tables, eating all possible snacks and rubish food and watching children pee in cans, on floor of the train, and virtually any surface imaginable except for hole in the floor of the toilet. Awesome!
7/08/2009
Wrong, False, and Unlucky
Wrong (When peaceful ain’t so peaceful)
Oh boy, how wrong I was! Only in my previous post I declared my admiration for coexistence of various minorities with Han population (daring to use the term “peaceful assimilation”) in this melting pot of cultures at the crossing of civilizations. I guess it has just boiled over. Whenever you think you understand something (me ->
Riots erupted on Sunday in the center of
False (assumption is mother of all f*ck-ups!)
I have to admit, my false assumption based on history (1,500 years of trading with anything and anyone) led me to the incorrect conclusion that Xinjiang is similar to
Unlucky
There is no better word to describe my rising frustration as it seems to me I forerun the “trouble”. I left Urumqi circa 20 hours before riots in order to visit Kashgar. Little I knew that the best hope for some action was to stay back in Urumqi together with my friend who planned his visits to “-stan countries” (according to information I got from hostel staff he left unharmed on Monday as he planned). Of course I noticed police maneuvers in Kashgar on Monday morning (while having my photo session with the old town) but I left the city before noon on a bus to Karghilik (Yecheng) in accordance with my own travel plan. Little I knew that there will be some action on its own in Kashi.
It seems to me the action is catching up with me (by the time it finally will, it would be probably only in form of extra nuisance to travellers that would find their choices of accommodation even more limited), therefore stay tuned as I await my bus departure in Hotan. For more stuff concerning Silk road and mutton dishes you have to wait a bit longer.
P.S.: These check points are, as the most of the things, only pro-forma. ID check always ends when policemen discover somebody who “forgot” his ID. Why bother and cause any trouble?! Leave it to someone else.
7/06/2009
Donkey town
Another post in a short time - suprisingly there is an internet access in western China. As of today, I reside in cozy hostel in the very center of Kashgar (I mean very very center - in the middle of old town and three minutes from Id Kah mosque). Accommodation is very unchinese with open rooms, wooden beds and common space without chairs but with plenty of carpets (we are in carpet country indeed :). What follows is a short account of things I have seen and experienced during my 12 hours in Kashgar (Kashi for sinophiles).
First and the most important thing, which should be mentioned about Kashgar, is livestock market - and baby, this is really something. It is huge, it is crowded, it has everything what moves and sometimes even the things that don't anymore (sun-exhausted cows and watermelons). You can see, bargain and test-ride donkeys, sheeps and lambs, cows and bulls, goats and horses. I have also seen snakes for sale (not on the plane :). It is sooo 19th century and out of touch with Maglev and other perks of Eastern seashore.
The whole Xinjiang is different from China (although differences are less strict in Urumqi thanks to the invasion of Hans encouraged by 'develop the west' program - a.k.a. peacefull assimilation) and the contrasts are the sharpest in Kashgar where Uighurs are still majority and Tajiks and Kyrgyzs account for the rest. As such it is also stuck in 19th century. Although ratio of cabs versus donkey-pulled carts is now in favour of cabs, still donkeys are one of the most important means of transportation.
Xinjiang is also land of fruits, especially watermelons. These you can find here in any shape, size, color or smell. Problem is that of all fruits, veggies and whatever we call plant, I hate watermelons the most - can't stand it. Besides fruits, region's other main product is mutton (again any shape, size, smell etc.). Right now, after shashlik / kebab dinner, I feel over-muttoned and I can swear that if I see any sheep, lamb or ram, mutton will erupt from any opening on my body. Here is another unsolvable problem I face - I will pass through mutton country for next six days...
Another distinction of Xinjiang from the rest of China is the early age local children are maturing. Today I saw seven to nine years old driving a scooter. It is frequent sight to see 10-15 years old boys selling and helping their fathers with carts, stalls and business in general. Completely different to Shanghai where high-schoolers are awaited by their grandparents in front of the school gate to be accompanied back home.
Besides above mentioned, I have observed and visited Abkah Hoja tomb, Id Kah mosque, old town, and one-eyebrow women which are probably considered as good and fashionable here (Breznev was sorry loser). Abkah Hoja was local chieftain, who established large tomb for his family and whose one great granddaughter was emperor´s concubine - don't ask me whether this is important or significant - according to the size of the tomb and how she is celebrated everywhere, it is.
Id Kah mosque is one of the biggest mosques in China and surely the biggest in Uighur style. It is also surprisingly open to visitor who can step also in side the praying premisses (carpets!) of course during no-praying time. Uighur style means open space with wooden pillars supporting the roof. This style is also used for living quarters in old town and as such I partially understand intention of Chinese government to level it and rebuild it according to safety standards. It is scary sight just walking by - some houses are falling apart in front of your eyes. Of course if it could stand for 500 years why do you feel the need to change it? Luckily changes in Xinjiang come very slow and old habits are rooted deeply (long live the donkey carts!).
As most of the city is built from mud or mud bricks, there is enormous amount of dust everywhere, which results in children which look beyond-dirty and possitively medieval (more on medieval things in China sometimes in the future - believe me the list is long :) Althoug I have to admit that there is certain charm in dusty kids running wild around streets of Kashgar old town, smiling and waving to any foreigner. With this I conclude my remarks on Kashgar and move on to some other destinations. Live long and prospere!
First and the most important thing, which should be mentioned about Kashgar, is livestock market - and baby, this is really something. It is huge, it is crowded, it has everything what moves and sometimes even the things that don't anymore (sun-exhausted cows and watermelons). You can see, bargain and test-ride donkeys, sheeps and lambs, cows and bulls, goats and horses. I have also seen snakes for sale (not on the plane :). It is sooo 19th century and out of touch with Maglev and other perks of Eastern seashore.
The whole Xinjiang is different from China (although differences are less strict in Urumqi thanks to the invasion of Hans encouraged by 'develop the west' program - a.k.a. peacefull assimilation) and the contrasts are the sharpest in Kashgar where Uighurs are still majority and Tajiks and Kyrgyzs account for the rest. As such it is also stuck in 19th century. Although ratio of cabs versus donkey-pulled carts is now in favour of cabs, still donkeys are one of the most important means of transportation.
Xinjiang is also land of fruits, especially watermelons. These you can find here in any shape, size, color or smell. Problem is that of all fruits, veggies and whatever we call plant, I hate watermelons the most - can't stand it. Besides fruits, region's other main product is mutton (again any shape, size, smell etc.). Right now, after shashlik / kebab dinner, I feel over-muttoned and I can swear that if I see any sheep, lamb or ram, mutton will erupt from any opening on my body. Here is another unsolvable problem I face - I will pass through mutton country for next six days...
Another distinction of Xinjiang from the rest of China is the early age local children are maturing. Today I saw seven to nine years old driving a scooter. It is frequent sight to see 10-15 years old boys selling and helping their fathers with carts, stalls and business in general. Completely different to Shanghai where high-schoolers are awaited by their grandparents in front of the school gate to be accompanied back home.
Besides above mentioned, I have observed and visited Abkah Hoja tomb, Id Kah mosque, old town, and one-eyebrow women which are probably considered as good and fashionable here (Breznev was sorry loser). Abkah Hoja was local chieftain, who established large tomb for his family and whose one great granddaughter was emperor´s concubine - don't ask me whether this is important or significant - according to the size of the tomb and how she is celebrated everywhere, it is.
Id Kah mosque is one of the biggest mosques in China and surely the biggest in Uighur style. It is also surprisingly open to visitor who can step also in side the praying premisses (carpets!) of course during no-praying time. Uighur style means open space with wooden pillars supporting the roof. This style is also used for living quarters in old town and as such I partially understand intention of Chinese government to level it and rebuild it according to safety standards. It is scary sight just walking by - some houses are falling apart in front of your eyes. Of course if it could stand for 500 years why do you feel the need to change it? Luckily changes in Xinjiang come very slow and old habits are rooted deeply (long live the donkey carts!).
As most of the city is built from mud or mud bricks, there is enormous amount of dust everywhere, which results in children which look beyond-dirty and possitively medieval (more on medieval things in China sometimes in the future - believe me the list is long :) Althoug I have to admit that there is certain charm in dusty kids running wild around streets of Kashgar old town, smiling and waving to any foreigner. With this I conclude my remarks on Kashgar and move on to some other destinations. Live long and prospere!
7/05/2009
Looping the silk / silking the loop (preface)
After three days of lingering and resting in Urumuqi I am embarking on another adventure. This time I would like to follow entire Silk road on the Chinese soil and circumvent the Taklamakan desert. Silk road as, all of you know (at least I hope), starts in Xian and ends in Istanbul. In Gansu and Xinjiang (around Dunhuang) it splits into two branches (some say three, but the middle one is more like a shortcut connecting southern and northern path) - Northern, which leads north of Taklamakan along Tian shan mountains through Korla to Kashgar, and Southern part, which follows Pamir range through Hotan and up to Kashgar where the both paths reconnect.
Of course, I had already passed along a good portion of the northern route. Today I will board the train to Kashgar - the meeting point and great market where the caravans and traders exchanged their goods. This ancient city is going through renovation (Chinese style) in order to prevent any earthquake damage. Problem is that all the historical buildings and streets will be levelled and rebuilt using modern materials.
As I still do not know how much time I would have and how my journey will continue I plan to spend couple of days in Kashgaria and explore mountain passes into Pakistan and Kyrgyzstan (if possible). After Kashgar my journey will lead me through oasis towns south of Taklamakan (Yangar, Hotan, Niye and so on) specialising in knife production and carpet weaving. The end point is either Dunhuang (Gansu province), Xining or Golmud (both in Qinghai province) depending on transportation means available. Possibility of cutting the whole trip short and crossing Taklamakan to Urumqi is high as well - all depends on beauty of Pamir mountains and how the buses will work. Of course, the whole exploration is limited by time as I have to finish the whole journey in c. eight days in order to return on time to Shanghai where I am supposed to meet up with my friend and to proceed together in exploration of other provinces (awesome plan is taking shape already).
The whole Silk road all the way west to Istanbul might sound more adventurous (with all the 'stan countries with crazy political situation in there) but believe me, from what I saw in Urumqi it is much more travelled alternative. Urumqi, and the hostel we are staying in, is a sort of base for all the explorers planning to return overland to Europe (I plan this too but later - when situation and time will allow me to follow exactly the route of ancient caravans).
This preface to upcoming trip was written to clarify my travel plans for those not familiar with Chinese names and geography and in case there will be no access to internet along the way. If no "wan ba's" (internet bars) are going to be available, see you in eight days :)
Of course, I had already passed along a good portion of the northern route. Today I will board the train to Kashgar - the meeting point and great market where the caravans and traders exchanged their goods. This ancient city is going through renovation (Chinese style) in order to prevent any earthquake damage. Problem is that all the historical buildings and streets will be levelled and rebuilt using modern materials.
As I still do not know how much time I would have and how my journey will continue I plan to spend couple of days in Kashgaria and explore mountain passes into Pakistan and Kyrgyzstan (if possible). After Kashgar my journey will lead me through oasis towns south of Taklamakan (Yangar, Hotan, Niye and so on) specialising in knife production and carpet weaving. The end point is either Dunhuang (Gansu province), Xining or Golmud (both in Qinghai province) depending on transportation means available. Possibility of cutting the whole trip short and crossing Taklamakan to Urumqi is high as well - all depends on beauty of Pamir mountains and how the buses will work. Of course, the whole exploration is limited by time as I have to finish the whole journey in c. eight days in order to return on time to Shanghai where I am supposed to meet up with my friend and to proceed together in exploration of other provinces (awesome plan is taking shape already).
The whole Silk road all the way west to Istanbul might sound more adventurous (with all the 'stan countries with crazy political situation in there) but believe me, from what I saw in Urumqi it is much more travelled alternative. Urumqi, and the hostel we are staying in, is a sort of base for all the explorers planning to return overland to Europe (I plan this too but later - when situation and time will allow me to follow exactly the route of ancient caravans).
This preface to upcoming trip was written to clarify my travel plans for those not familiar with Chinese names and geography and in case there will be no access to internet along the way. If no "wan ba's" (internet bars) are going to be available, see you in eight days :)
7/03/2009
Melting pot of everything
Leaving Gansu behind we entered the stew of Xinjiang. As it turned out later it is not so hot (at least the days we spent here so far) as feared. Mountain ranges are plentiful with Pamir, Tian shan (and some other) and deserts are large (Taklamakam and co.). Besides meeting point of various cultures (Central Asia and China) it is also meeting point of Indian and Eurasian geological plate which partially explains the contrasting geography here. Not only is this province the largest in China, but it also has the world's second lowest (Turpan - 154 meters below sea level) and the world's second highest (K2 - 8,611m above sea level) point. Xinjiang is also the place where the journey of our group of four ends. Our routes separate as I plan to continue around China's portion of silk road, Thomas (Norwegian backpacker) will continue on his journey across all the 'stans in the steps of the caravans, and girls return to Shanghai to follow their own paths. Below you can found account of our journey up to separation point in Urumuqi (Xinjiang capital).
Craddle of grapes (in China)
Upon our arrival to Turpan (or Tulufan as it is pronounce in Chinese) we negotiated cab for 50 kuai (5 euro) per person for the whole day (not including entrance fees for sights). This gave us opportunities to see everything we planned in the vicinity of the city. We started sightseeing at Emin minaret (monument dedicated and named after local chief who succumbed to the rule of Chinese empire in order to gain hereditary title of Xinjiang governor for his family. Also he led his people into 20 years relocation after armies of the empire were forced to leave. Upon his return he fought various warlords and gained the praise and title he aimed for. Minaret and mosque is open to public and is built in Afghan style (fairly unique sight in China).
Our journey continued some 70 km out of Tulufan to village of Tuyog (a true Uighur village). In there you can literally see Uighur way of life (doing nothing most of the day). It includes some magnificent scenery and canyons around. Unfortunately grottoes (local version of Mogao caves) is closed as of today due to safety reason (of course we walked as far as it was possible). Nearby grape valley is the epicentre of raisins industry (local wine on the other hand sucks as it is too sweet - wine tasting provided courtesy of our skilled taxi driver).
After short stopover in Karez museum (wells and underground irrigation system with almost 4,000 km of tunels at its peak) we reached our final destination - Jiaohe. Jiaohe is ancient city which reached its peak in Tang dynasty but then was sacked by invading barbarians and thus left for ruins. Even after 1,500 years you can see perfectly outline of the city with house and streets preserved by lack of rainfall in the area. One of the highlights of the trip for me, as you can walk between the buildings and temples and see how the city was organized. Surprisingly, preservation efforts are done with some delicacy and no major changes are visible.
Urumqi (Wulumuqi)
Capital of Xinjiang Autonomus Region (for Uighur minority) is something what looks most like metropolis west of Xian. It is also the most landlocked city with furthest distance to any sea or ocean. Surrounded by epic mountains of Tian shan it is supposedly hikers heaven. Unfortunately we do not have opportunity to confirm this findings.
In here we visited local museum offering nice exhibitions of local minorities (from Uighur - 8.5 mil - to Russian - 4,500 headstrong), history of Xinjiang (in western style - from Neolithic age till today, but with Chinese tweaks - skipping 'uninteresting' periods - namely three hundred years of 13 to 16 century), revolutionary struggle of red army during independence fight in Xinjiang (no English captions) and carpets of Xinjiang (world renowed local product - especially in the south of the province).
After museum we searched for the biggest local food market (Wuyi Yeshi - Wuyi night market). Believe me this is sight to be seen. Liveliest and by far the most crowded market I have ever seen, stalls spread over three streets and over at least five blocks. It offers food, spicies, dried fruits, fake T-shirts, jeans and handbags as well as anything you can imagine - from pigeons to sandals and entertainment options. Food stalls offer lamb (whole thing with head and rams still on, or just the favorite pieces, e.g. head), fish, shashlik and whatever else you want. Of course we tried and feasted on local delicacies (be warned as prices are somehow high). We haggled with fruit sellers and make all other customers laugh (still not sure whether it was due to our inability to negotiate and understand what was going on or jokes of the fruit seller :).
Anyway, after our last supper we went to bed as girls had to wake up for early plain. Morning of their departure left us asking and scrambling for our ongoing plans. I plan to circumvere the Silk road on Chinese territory by visiting first Kashgar and then continue its southern branch along Taklamakan desert. For further updates please stay tuned :)
Craddle of grapes (in China)
Upon our arrival to Turpan (or Tulufan as it is pronounce in Chinese) we negotiated cab for 50 kuai (5 euro) per person for the whole day (not including entrance fees for sights). This gave us opportunities to see everything we planned in the vicinity of the city. We started sightseeing at Emin minaret (monument dedicated and named after local chief who succumbed to the rule of Chinese empire in order to gain hereditary title of Xinjiang governor for his family. Also he led his people into 20 years relocation after armies of the empire were forced to leave. Upon his return he fought various warlords and gained the praise and title he aimed for. Minaret and mosque is open to public and is built in Afghan style (fairly unique sight in China).
Our journey continued some 70 km out of Tulufan to village of Tuyog (a true Uighur village). In there you can literally see Uighur way of life (doing nothing most of the day). It includes some magnificent scenery and canyons around. Unfortunately grottoes (local version of Mogao caves) is closed as of today due to safety reason (of course we walked as far as it was possible). Nearby grape valley is the epicentre of raisins industry (local wine on the other hand sucks as it is too sweet - wine tasting provided courtesy of our skilled taxi driver).
After short stopover in Karez museum (wells and underground irrigation system with almost 4,000 km of tunels at its peak) we reached our final destination - Jiaohe. Jiaohe is ancient city which reached its peak in Tang dynasty but then was sacked by invading barbarians and thus left for ruins. Even after 1,500 years you can see perfectly outline of the city with house and streets preserved by lack of rainfall in the area. One of the highlights of the trip for me, as you can walk between the buildings and temples and see how the city was organized. Surprisingly, preservation efforts are done with some delicacy and no major changes are visible.
Urumqi (Wulumuqi)
Capital of Xinjiang Autonomus Region (for Uighur minority) is something what looks most like metropolis west of Xian. It is also the most landlocked city with furthest distance to any sea or ocean. Surrounded by epic mountains of Tian shan it is supposedly hikers heaven. Unfortunately we do not have opportunity to confirm this findings.
In here we visited local museum offering nice exhibitions of local minorities (from Uighur - 8.5 mil - to Russian - 4,500 headstrong), history of Xinjiang (in western style - from Neolithic age till today, but with Chinese tweaks - skipping 'uninteresting' periods - namely three hundred years of 13 to 16 century), revolutionary struggle of red army during independence fight in Xinjiang (no English captions) and carpets of Xinjiang (world renowed local product - especially in the south of the province).
After museum we searched for the biggest local food market (Wuyi Yeshi - Wuyi night market). Believe me this is sight to be seen. Liveliest and by far the most crowded market I have ever seen, stalls spread over three streets and over at least five blocks. It offers food, spicies, dried fruits, fake T-shirts, jeans and handbags as well as anything you can imagine - from pigeons to sandals and entertainment options. Food stalls offer lamb (whole thing with head and rams still on, or just the favorite pieces, e.g. head), fish, shashlik and whatever else you want. Of course we tried and feasted on local delicacies (be warned as prices are somehow high). We haggled with fruit sellers and make all other customers laugh (still not sure whether it was due to our inability to negotiate and understand what was going on or jokes of the fruit seller :).
Anyway, after our last supper we went to bed as girls had to wake up for early plain. Morning of their departure left us asking and scrambling for our ongoing plans. I plan to circumvere the Silk road on Chinese territory by visiting first Kashgar and then continue its southern branch along Taklamakan desert. For further updates please stay tuned :)
Off the beaten track!
In words of one show-off 'backpacker' from Norway, I will try to introduce to you Gansu - province of Gobi desert, Qilian mountains, and the last part of the empire that the Silk road caravans passed before entering no man's land of western barbarians. As already mentioned in other posts, our group of four travellers entered this province on the overnight bus from Xining to Zhang Ye. We planned to visit Mati Si (with allegedly lots of hiking opportunities), Jiayuguan (the last stronghold of the former empire with magnificient fortress protecting borders), end of the Great Wall, and Qilian mountains and theirs glaciers. You can see below how did we succeed.
Day like no other
Although previous day spent at Dalai Lama's birthplace was highly valued by all of us as so far the best one of our trip (due to its spiritual and 'natural' qualities), it was trashed by the day that followed. At two o'clock we arrived to Zhang Ye where we quickly found accommodation and slept sweatly till 9.00am. Afterwards we hopped on the bus to Mati He (a crossing 9km far from our ultimate destination). After unsuccessful negotiation of taxi (called by friendly farmer) fare - I personally think we overpaid but who cares when the fare is less than starting rate at any western European capital - we successfully negotiated our accommodation (10 kuai or 1 euro per person - I had never ever paid so little price for overnight stay - not including my homeless foyers at Scotland, New Zealand, in the US and Spain in no particular order :).
What followed was as surreal as any picture of Dalí. We waited one hour for a meal that ultimately smelled like puke (allegedly mutton and mushrooms), hiked in the best nature all of us have yet seen in China (not only were the waterfalls beautiful and magnificent, valleys deep with green, but also the meadows covered with yellow flowers were picturesque just like some Austrian postcard), had the photosession with bunch of Tibetan monks (all the so called 'supermodels' have no clue about the art of pose for picture), had dinner in traditional Tibetan tent with 100% original Tibetan girls, and danced with totally drunk Han tourists. Besides that, our Norwegian backpacker from the first paragraph, had an eye-to-eye discussion with one of the drunks each speaking in a different language (Chinese versus English). Obviously both had a good time as they settled their differences on a dance-floor. Tired and totally speechless we put ourselves with the vision of early morning wake up call in order to a catch bus to Jiayuguan.
Edge of the Empire
On our way to the ancient city, which still strongly resonates as the end of the civilisation in minds of most of the Chinese, we encountered our first herd of camels (50-100 heads strong). Same day we managed to negotiate visits to the fortress, through which caravans and expelled artists passed into oblivion, and the reconstructed last part of Great wall all for price of 60 kuai - 6 euros). For the first time we also experienced so called factory in the middle of nowhere phenomenon - here in Gansu and also in Xinjiang you can find factories churning up fumes of black smoke up to he sky. These factories are literally in the middle of nowhere without any city in their vicinity. Next morning came the highlight of my bargaining career so far as I managed to negotiate even lower price for cab drive to the glacier and back (each road c. 130km on gravel road). 360 kuai (36 euros) is 10 per cent better than two years old Lonely Planet suggests :) This puts me in good position to finally stop overpaying for fake market T-shirts and fabric market shirts.
The way up to the glacier is a story by itself. It is 4 hours drive with average speed of 40km per hour (in case you hire a taxi and not a four wheel drive Toyota). It follows gravel road for good 75 per cent of the way and offers some breathtaking (altitude caused and panorama caused) views. Of course our overweighted small cab overheated and cooling pipes exploded into face of our driver. Partial shower was delivered to me and our female Norwegian companion (no harm done to any of us). The most laughs gained speedy exit of our Norwegian backpacker as he was sleeping in the car. His reactions can be compared to those of a koala (slow and slower :). Anyway our humiliated driver (as he could not hold up to his end of the deal) called for help his family and manually repaired his car while we were offered family limousine (true Guangzhou produced BYD - Build Your Dreams). We took turns in pitying this car forced to drive entirely inappropriate roads.
Glacier is 4,300m above the sea level. We spent there good three hours hiking and exploring rocky country of Qilian mountain range and soaking in sunlight (therefore sunburned noses upon our return :D. On the way back we were fed fair share of dust from trucks transporting iron ore from local mines and resisted any attempts of our poor driver to increase the price. If he did not asked for it he would probably get it as we estimated that this trip put solid two years on his cars (usage-wise).
Sands of Dunhuang
As I already mentioned, western Gansu is mostly desert country with southern borders copied by Qilian mountains. From Jiayuguan we hopped on the bus to well known Dunhuang where we intended to visit those famous Budha grottoes at Magao caves. Again we succeeded in negotiating 'fair' price for tax hire - 120 kuai (12 euros) for three sites - Moon crescent lake and Mingsha shan (sand mountain on the outskirts of the city) and Mogao caves (30 km from the city proper). Although a bit disappointed by Crescent lake and commercialisation of the area by money seeking Han people, we found our breath swept away by the magnificence of towering sand dunes of sand mountain.
The greedy hawkers asked money just for use of ladders leading up to the dune top - which is pure exhortation and should be ignored completely. On the top of the dunes we could overview kilometers of sands leading up to the horizon. Furthermore, we witnessed meeting point of oasis and desert - wonderful sight. As this was my first desert I have ever seen, views made the strongest impression on me from all what we saw in Gansu.
Mogao caves were afterwards a little disappointing as Chinese reconstruction and preservation made their original features unrecognizable (curently, a modern meter-thick wall covers the sand stone in which are these caves carved). We undertook Chinese tour as no student discount was offered on foreign language tour although all four of us possess Chinese university IDs. The reason why did I for the first time shout on an adult man who completely ignored my modest and calm requests for explanation why rules of admittance are not followed (it is written that foreigners should pay extra 20 kuai for foreign language guide to the price of their ticket - which we were happy to pay). We visited 10 caves with various Budha statues from different periods and influences (from Tibetan to Nepalese, and from Qin to Tang dynasty) as well as cave 17 where great amount of ancient manuscripts were discovered and later exploited and exported to the safety of European museums (items left were lost or given as bribes to various official upon their transport to Beijing - only small amount of mostly less valuable scripts reached ultimate destination. All-in-all Mogao caves with their huge two Budhas (c. 40 meters high) are something comparable to combination of Leshan giant Budha (the worlds biggest) and Dazu caves and reliefs.
After the Dunhuang visit we boarded overnight train (soft sleeper) to Turpan, in Xinjiang province, where we intend to explore more. This soft sleeper was the first time in more than five days we got good quality sleep without any hustle (no bus or early morning wake up calls). Gansu province left fond memories in all of us as we were deeply impressed with its nature variety and fondness of its people. Turpan marks ultimately our last day of 'American' tourism for us (hiring the cars and letting ourselves to be transported around. This is mostly due to the fact that there are no other option and our schedule is thougher than though. More on Xinjian and its cities in following days. Enjoy!
Day like no other
Although previous day spent at Dalai Lama's birthplace was highly valued by all of us as so far the best one of our trip (due to its spiritual and 'natural' qualities), it was trashed by the day that followed. At two o'clock we arrived to Zhang Ye where we quickly found accommodation and slept sweatly till 9.00am. Afterwards we hopped on the bus to Mati He (a crossing 9km far from our ultimate destination). After unsuccessful negotiation of taxi (called by friendly farmer) fare - I personally think we overpaid but who cares when the fare is less than starting rate at any western European capital - we successfully negotiated our accommodation (10 kuai or 1 euro per person - I had never ever paid so little price for overnight stay - not including my homeless foyers at Scotland, New Zealand, in the US and Spain in no particular order :).
What followed was as surreal as any picture of Dalí. We waited one hour for a meal that ultimately smelled like puke (allegedly mutton and mushrooms), hiked in the best nature all of us have yet seen in China (not only were the waterfalls beautiful and magnificent, valleys deep with green, but also the meadows covered with yellow flowers were picturesque just like some Austrian postcard), had the photosession with bunch of Tibetan monks (all the so called 'supermodels' have no clue about the art of pose for picture), had dinner in traditional Tibetan tent with 100% original Tibetan girls, and danced with totally drunk Han tourists. Besides that, our Norwegian backpacker from the first paragraph, had an eye-to-eye discussion with one of the drunks each speaking in a different language (Chinese versus English). Obviously both had a good time as they settled their differences on a dance-floor. Tired and totally speechless we put ourselves with the vision of early morning wake up call in order to a catch bus to Jiayuguan.
Edge of the Empire
On our way to the ancient city, which still strongly resonates as the end of the civilisation in minds of most of the Chinese, we encountered our first herd of camels (50-100 heads strong). Same day we managed to negotiate visits to the fortress, through which caravans and expelled artists passed into oblivion, and the reconstructed last part of Great wall all for price of 60 kuai - 6 euros). For the first time we also experienced so called factory in the middle of nowhere phenomenon - here in Gansu and also in Xinjiang you can find factories churning up fumes of black smoke up to he sky. These factories are literally in the middle of nowhere without any city in their vicinity. Next morning came the highlight of my bargaining career so far as I managed to negotiate even lower price for cab drive to the glacier and back (each road c. 130km on gravel road). 360 kuai (36 euros) is 10 per cent better than two years old Lonely Planet suggests :) This puts me in good position to finally stop overpaying for fake market T-shirts and fabric market shirts.
The way up to the glacier is a story by itself. It is 4 hours drive with average speed of 40km per hour (in case you hire a taxi and not a four wheel drive Toyota). It follows gravel road for good 75 per cent of the way and offers some breathtaking (altitude caused and panorama caused) views. Of course our overweighted small cab overheated and cooling pipes exploded into face of our driver. Partial shower was delivered to me and our female Norwegian companion (no harm done to any of us). The most laughs gained speedy exit of our Norwegian backpacker as he was sleeping in the car. His reactions can be compared to those of a koala (slow and slower :). Anyway our humiliated driver (as he could not hold up to his end of the deal) called for help his family and manually repaired his car while we were offered family limousine (true Guangzhou produced BYD - Build Your Dreams). We took turns in pitying this car forced to drive entirely inappropriate roads.
Glacier is 4,300m above the sea level. We spent there good three hours hiking and exploring rocky country of Qilian mountain range and soaking in sunlight (therefore sunburned noses upon our return :D. On the way back we were fed fair share of dust from trucks transporting iron ore from local mines and resisted any attempts of our poor driver to increase the price. If he did not asked for it he would probably get it as we estimated that this trip put solid two years on his cars (usage-wise).
Sands of Dunhuang
As I already mentioned, western Gansu is mostly desert country with southern borders copied by Qilian mountains. From Jiayuguan we hopped on the bus to well known Dunhuang where we intended to visit those famous Budha grottoes at Magao caves. Again we succeeded in negotiating 'fair' price for tax hire - 120 kuai (12 euros) for three sites - Moon crescent lake and Mingsha shan (sand mountain on the outskirts of the city) and Mogao caves (30 km from the city proper). Although a bit disappointed by Crescent lake and commercialisation of the area by money seeking Han people, we found our breath swept away by the magnificence of towering sand dunes of sand mountain.
The greedy hawkers asked money just for use of ladders leading up to the dune top - which is pure exhortation and should be ignored completely. On the top of the dunes we could overview kilometers of sands leading up to the horizon. Furthermore, we witnessed meeting point of oasis and desert - wonderful sight. As this was my first desert I have ever seen, views made the strongest impression on me from all what we saw in Gansu.
Mogao caves were afterwards a little disappointing as Chinese reconstruction and preservation made their original features unrecognizable (curently, a modern meter-thick wall covers the sand stone in which are these caves carved). We undertook Chinese tour as no student discount was offered on foreign language tour although all four of us possess Chinese university IDs. The reason why did I for the first time shout on an adult man who completely ignored my modest and calm requests for explanation why rules of admittance are not followed (it is written that foreigners should pay extra 20 kuai for foreign language guide to the price of their ticket - which we were happy to pay). We visited 10 caves with various Budha statues from different periods and influences (from Tibetan to Nepalese, and from Qin to Tang dynasty) as well as cave 17 where great amount of ancient manuscripts were discovered and later exploited and exported to the safety of European museums (items left were lost or given as bribes to various official upon their transport to Beijing - only small amount of mostly less valuable scripts reached ultimate destination. All-in-all Mogao caves with their huge two Budhas (c. 40 meters high) are something comparable to combination of Leshan giant Budha (the worlds biggest) and Dazu caves and reliefs.
After the Dunhuang visit we boarded overnight train (soft sleeper) to Turpan, in Xinjiang province, where we intend to explore more. This soft sleeper was the first time in more than five days we got good quality sleep without any hustle (no bus or early morning wake up calls). Gansu province left fond memories in all of us as we were deeply impressed with its nature variety and fondness of its people. Turpan marks ultimately our last day of 'American' tourism for us (hiring the cars and letting ourselves to be transported around. This is mostly due to the fact that there are no other option and our schedule is thougher than though. More on Xinjian and its cities in following days. Enjoy!
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